I'm getting closer to having a set of Hooker SC 6126 on our 77 Lincoln Mark V.
The drivers side required us to have the car almost 2 feet in the air and jack the motor as high as it would go with both motor mounts loose. Even with the motor jacked up, the father in-law had to use a pry bar to push the motor towards the pass side to get the header slid in there. Things are close, but they seem to fit pretty well. From what I hear, there aren't too many headers that fit super well.
The passenger side you can throw up in there with the motor dead flat in its mounts!! I think I will have to clearance one tube around the idler pitman arm. But other than that, it looks pretty good. Starter clearance looks almost better than the manifolds. I am concerned that header heat may make a mess out of the AC box. I think some of the adhesive reflective insulation might help?
The collectors seem to be close to the trans cross member and outside the cross member exhaust humps. I haven't quite figured out what to do there. After I get the headers fully bolted up I can get some better measurements.
I was thinking of starting with these headman hook-ups and cut and paste them together.
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=HED-18804&N=700+115&autoview=sku
I may have to also cut back the collector some like TrickFlowRick did.
http://www.460ford.com/forum/showthread.php?t=108616&highlight=6126
But all in all, I think its doable. And I get to see if Greg is right after all!!
I know its just a budget bomber, but we're having fun!
I got a little more done...
The collectors were too close to the trans crossmember so I had them cut back 2.5"s and rewelded. (thanks to TrickFlowRick for posting his hook-up pics)
The converters are on there to pass visual inspection. They are 2.5" straight piped.
Here is my cliff notes;
To install my driverside header I had to take out both motor mounts and jack the motor almost as high as it will go. You will know when its high enough because there will be wiggle room when the other guy uses a pry bar to push the engine to the passenger side. (If it isn't high enough, we found the motor wouldn't move much when you pried on it) We found that prying the motor over to the side was the only way to get it to finally slip in.
The driver side header was the only one I needed to clearance. BUT these were used headers with clearancing already done to them.
The passenger side can be thrown up in there with the motor flat in its mounts (get the driverside taken care of first, if you jack the motor up with the pass side on it will hit the floor/firewall)
I did clearance some of the flange, it was really close to the trans.
Speaking of which, I did cut the collectors back to get a little more room from the trans crossmember. (side note, It looks like the pass side might have hit the floor if the collector wasn't shortened)
The header hook-ups were the most time intensive part. I think there are better ways to do it than the way I did it. You'll have to get creative. Mine are ugly abd booger welded. But now I can get it to a shop that can do it right.
I still need to move somemore things around to have more heat clearance. Brake lines, trans cooler lines were some of the most obvious.
This steering return line I'm going to replace and move on top of the fender.
Also the plastic AC box probably need some kind of protection before summer stop and go traffic....
I won't lie, for a newbie like me this was a pain in the ***. But it is very doable. If you are willing to fight though it, you can put Hooker 6126's on a Lincoln Mark V.
If people need specific pictures, I will do my best.
We haven't driven it yet, so I don't know what kind of seat of the pants improvment there is. I do know it sounds nasty! I bet it's mostly bark and no bite!!
The drivers side required us to have the car almost 2 feet in the air and jack the motor as high as it would go with both motor mounts loose. Even with the motor jacked up, the father in-law had to use a pry bar to push the motor towards the pass side to get the header slid in there. Things are close, but they seem to fit pretty well. From what I hear, there aren't too many headers that fit super well.
The passenger side you can throw up in there with the motor dead flat in its mounts!! I think I will have to clearance one tube around the idler pitman arm. But other than that, it looks pretty good. Starter clearance looks almost better than the manifolds. I am concerned that header heat may make a mess out of the AC box. I think some of the adhesive reflective insulation might help?
The collectors seem to be close to the trans cross member and outside the cross member exhaust humps. I haven't quite figured out what to do there. After I get the headers fully bolted up I can get some better measurements.
I was thinking of starting with these headman hook-ups and cut and paste them together.
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=HED-18804&N=700+115&autoview=sku
I may have to also cut back the collector some like TrickFlowRick did.
http://www.460ford.com/forum/showthread.php?t=108616&highlight=6126
But all in all, I think its doable. And I get to see if Greg is right after all!!
Just kidding Greg!!
I know its just a budget bomber, but we're having fun!
I got a little more done...
The collectors were too close to the trans crossmember so I had them cut back 2.5"s and rewelded. (thanks to TrickFlowRick for posting his hook-up pics)
The converters are on there to pass visual inspection. They are 2.5" straight piped.
Here is my cliff notes;
To install my driverside header I had to take out both motor mounts and jack the motor almost as high as it will go. You will know when its high enough because there will be wiggle room when the other guy uses a pry bar to push the engine to the passenger side. (If it isn't high enough, we found the motor wouldn't move much when you pried on it) We found that prying the motor over to the side was the only way to get it to finally slip in.
The driver side header was the only one I needed to clearance. BUT these were used headers with clearancing already done to them.
The passenger side can be thrown up in there with the motor flat in its mounts (get the driverside taken care of first, if you jack the motor up with the pass side on it will hit the floor/firewall)
I did clearance some of the flange, it was really close to the trans.
Speaking of which, I did cut the collectors back to get a little more room from the trans crossmember. (side note, It looks like the pass side might have hit the floor if the collector wasn't shortened)
The header hook-ups were the most time intensive part. I think there are better ways to do it than the way I did it. You'll have to get creative. Mine are ugly abd booger welded. But now I can get it to a shop that can do it right.
I still need to move somemore things around to have more heat clearance. Brake lines, trans cooler lines were some of the most obvious.
This steering return line I'm going to replace and move on top of the fender.
Also the plastic AC box probably need some kind of protection before summer stop and go traffic....
I won't lie, for a newbie like me this was a pain in the ***. But it is very doable. If you are willing to fight though it, you can put Hooker 6126's on a Lincoln Mark V.
If people need specific pictures, I will do my best.
We haven't driven it yet, so I don't know what kind of seat of the pants improvment there is. I do know it sounds nasty! I bet it's mostly bark and no bite!!