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Mr.Scharf's 1993 Foxbody Notch

409K views 1K replies 92 participants last post by  devindc625 
#1 · (Edited)
I'm finially getting around to posting my 1993 Foxbody notchback project in the car build up section. I got this little jewel at a yard sale for $300 bucks. At the time the owner told me that it needed a transmission and didn't run. After I got it home I put 5 quarts of transmission fluid in it and proceeded to drive it for 6 months. I also had to change the oil. It was way over filled and it was RED fluid. I guess we all know what he did. Oh well. His ignorance was a great deal for me. Anyway I'll list the mechanicals and post up some pictures. I don't think the pictures are in any particualr order. I'm much further along than this first batch of pictures may suggest. I'll post more pic's later. Below are the motor spec's and mechanicals.

New motor is a 587 cid (9.4 liters). 4.560 bore x 4.5 inch stroke.

1999 SVO Block bored .030 over
UPDATE - 2015 Ford Racing A460 Big Bore Block
4.3 stroke Ford SVO Crank
UPDATE - Lunati Forged 4.5 Stroke Crank
UPDATE - Jon Kaase Aluminium Oil Pump
J&E Flat Tops
UPDATE - Diamond 4.560 Bore Pistons
Eagle H-Beams with ARP bolt upgrade
UPDATE - Callies Ultra H-Beam Rods
ARP Main studs
ARP Head Studs
SVO M-6049-A429 Cobra Jet Aluminium Heads
UPDATE - Jon Kaase P-51 Heads Fully Race Ported By Phillip Oakley at Oakley Motorsports
Lunati 51606 Solid Roller Cam (.735/.735) with matching roller lifters, valve springs & retainer kit.
Update: CompCams custom grind solid roller cam (spec'd by Lem Evans at B.F. Evans FORD)
Manely Extreme Duty Stainless Valves (2.25/1.76)
Ford Racing Chromemoly pushrods
UPDATE - Trend Chromemoly pushrods
Crane Gold Race Roller Rockers (1.73)
UPDATE - Comp Chromemoly Roller Rocker Arms
Comp Cams Rocker Stud Girdle
UPDATE: Jomar rocker stud girdle
Edelbrock 4150 Victor 460 Intake (I really want the Mafia intake though)
UPDATE: TrickFlow Mafia 4500 style intake
Choice of Carbs:
QuickFuel Q Series 4150 1050 Carbuerator
--or--
QuickFuel E-85 4150 1050 Carbuerator
Update: QuickFuel QFX 1450 CFM Carb
Aeromotive SS Electric Fuel Pump
Update: MagnaFuel ProTuner 750 Series In-Line Fuel Pump
Aeromotive Bypass Style Regulator
Aeromotive A1000 Carbureted Bypass Fuel Pressure Regulator
CSR 2 Inch Open Spacer
Update: Jomar 1 1/2 inch power cone spacer from Lem Evans (THANKS LEM!!)
CSR Electric Water Pump (natural finish)
Update: Star Machine Standard Vacuum Pump & drive mandrel kit from Phillip Oakley at Oalkey Motorsports
MSD 6AL Ignition Box
UPDATE: MSD Digital 7 (7530T) ignition box with HVC coil
UPDATE: MSD Flying Magnetic Crank Trigger
MSD 8577 Mechanical Distributor
NOS Big Shot Plate System
Harwood 6" Cowl Lift Off Hood
Mad Dog Headers ( 2 inch primaries with 3.5 inch Collectors)
Update: Custom made headers 2 1/4 primaries into 2 3/8th step collectors with 5 inch exit
Power Master 140 Amp Alternator
Power Master High Torque Mini Starter
Dougs Electric Exhaust Cutouts
Summit 10 Gallon Fuel Cell
8 AN Braided Fuel Supply & Return Line
AN Fittings Galore
UPR Front K-Member
UPR A Arms
UPR Caster/Camber Plates
UPR Manual Rack Bump Steer Kit
QA1 Front Struts with Coil Over 175 Pound Springs
Strange Drag Race Front Disc Brakes
Update: Strange Drag Race Rear Disc Brakes
Griffin Radiator (with CSR over flow)
Flex-a-Lite 13 1/2 inch dual puller fans (4600 CFM)
TCI Full Competition C6 Reverse Manual Valve Body with Trans Brake
TCI 4500 RPM Stall Converter
TCI Trans Cooler (huge x large)
UPDATE - Abruzzi "Mac Daddy" Powerglide Transmission
UPDATE - Abruzzi 10 inch 5900 RPM Torque Converter

B&M Mega Shifter
P.E.M. 3 inch diameter chromemoly driveshaft via Cale Aronson
UPDATE - Strange 3 1/2 inch chromemoly driveshaft 1350 Solid U-Joints
Ford 9 Inch Rear (setup for stock style suspension)
UPR Upper & Lower Control Arms (with aluminium bushings)
Moog 4 banger rear springs
Strange Drag Race Adjustable Rear Shocks
Moser 35 Spline Axles
Strange Pro Nodular Iron Center Section (Full Spool with 3.62 Pro Gear Set)
Billet Specialties 15 x 10 Rear Wheels
Mickey Thompson 28x12.5 ET Streets
Billet Specialties 15x3.5 Front Wheels
Mickey Thompson Sportsman tires (skinnies, I can't remember the size)
Jegs Mild Steel 12 poit cage kit
Scat ProCar Seats
G Force 5 Point Harnesses

There went tuition for one of the kids... The world needs ditch diggers too!!

$50 bucks says I forgot at least 20 other things... LOL

Oh yes... Like the motor plate and FluidDamper Harmonic Balancer!
UPDATE: Innovators West Harmonic Balancer

What she looked like the day I got her!!



A tired old 2.3 litre with 102.000 miles on the clock.



Battle Box Reinforcements In And Welded.


12pt Cage In And Welded. (Hot Rod #3 in the background. Sorry... It's a bone stock chebby)


Another Cage Picture.


Hood That I Got From A Guy On CraigsList In Cincinnati. $150 Bucks. What A Deal!! It Fits Perfect!!


View Of Hood Cowl From The Inside.



Greasey Ugly Mess...
 
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#123 · (Edited)
Seats Are In!!

It has been a while since I posted any progress. This weekend I tackled getting the seats into the car. I got the Scat ProCar seats from Jegs. They are decent and will serve the purpose. The mounting brackets that came with them were a joke. They raised the seat so high that the top of the seat was almost into the roof. I don't know who designed them but I'm thinking that they were 4'8" China men. There was no way that my 6'4" 250 pound butt could use them so I had to make my own. It seems that I did a good job. Both seats will go forward and backward on the sliders. I can also use the lever that allows the seat back to move forward so you can reach into the back seat. My first attempt at getting the seats in put the seats to far to the outside and neither the sliders or the folding seat back options would work. Now they are fully functional and it is a more comfortable driving position as well. With that being said it took me 10 hours to remake both seat brackets, weld them together and get them in the car and working. I had no idea it would take so long. But it is done now...

Next I am going to finish plugging the holes in the firewall so I can paint the engine compartment. I'll then put the motor back in for the last time before fire up!! Below are some pictures of the seats.





 
#124 ·
My buddy bought the same seats for his 79 Fox from Summit with the brackets. He had the very same issue. I believe he modified the brackets by drilling a hole up higher on one of the pieces? Or something like that. They are actually pretty nice seats for the $$.
 
#125 ·
Unlike the seats the brackets were kind of expensive for what they were. I didn't really see anyway of modifiying them to make them work. Well I did but I would have just ended up cutting them all up and re-doing them altogether. That is esentially what I did but I got some metal from a local vendor and I got it all done for pennies on the dollar compared to what the seat brackets cost. If I could factor in my time as a labor cost these seat brackets that I made are worth about $400 bucks!! Too bad I got waaaayyyyy more time than money!! So I bit the bullet and just did it myself. It is a very comforable driving position though. I'm going to like it. I can't wait to let off the transbrake button for the first time at 4500 RPM. Should be fun!! :D
 
#126 · (Edited)
Firewall Closed Up

Today I got the rest of the plates tack welded on from the inside of the car that cover up all the holes in the firewall. I then put some epoxy around the edges of the holes from inside the engine compartment to seal the up. It should turn out pretty good once I sand a bit on the epoxy and then paint the engine compartment. It was also pretty tough to get metal plates around the roll cage bars that come through the firewall but I got that done as well. The firewall is now all sealed up except for the master cylinder, throttle cable and one other hole that I left in there to pass wires through. I'll put a groumet in the wiring hole so I don't rub the wire insulation down. Below is a picture of the passenger side. I can't wait to get this thing going. I really want this thing going for the Powered By Ford Race in Byron this year.

 
#129 ·
Looking Good! I am looking forward to seeing that car completed!
 
#132 ·
You should install an anti-roll bar in the back of your car.

While it doesn't have to be this brand, I'm talking about something like this: http://www.racecraft.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=54_560_561&products_id=381




I had 4 different Fox & SN-95 cars. Adjustable control arms, adjustable rear shocks, air bags in the right rear springs, adjustable front struts, etc. None of the aforementioned parts did nor will make as big of an impact on launch consistency and traction as an anti-roll bar. Install one from the get-go and you'll take a lot of launch guess-work out of the equation.
 
#141 ·
I think there is more traction to be had just by lowering the pressure in your DR's like you said that you were going to. I chased that problem around myself. I had a set of Mickey Thompson drag slicks that would as you said "hook on grass". Then I put a set of the Mickey Thompson Drag Radials on and had all kinds of wheel spin issues. The MT guys said to leave them aired up and so the first few times out that is what I did. And I spun the heck out of the tires every time. I then finally lowered the air pressure down to about 12 psi I believe and I finally got the drag radials to hook. Keep in mind this was not in a Mustang. It was in a 1974 F100 but I'm sure the tire pressue thing still applies.
 
#142 ·
Yeah, I'd bet air pressure was a big part of the problem. 18 psi is a bit on the high side.

As you state, cost for a set of tires versus an anti-roll bar could be something along the lines of even, but whereas when you wear out a set of tires and have to pony up the cash for another set, the ARB is a one-and-done deal. I promise you it'll make the car THAT much more predictable and consistent on launch, as well. They make a significant difference.

For what it's worth, I looked up the "standard" ARB that UPR sells and it's only something like $250.00. http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-chrome-moly-anti-roll-bar-kit.html

My blown 372 '90 notchback, on a foot-braked AOD with a 3200 stall converter (4.10s and 28x9"s) was dead-consistent on launch and was always in the 1.36-1.38 60-foot range. This was a 3100 lb car (full interior, a/c, power windows, 10-point cage) that I could and would drive to the track and around town. I simply yanked one end-link out of the ARB when I left the track and/or was going to drive the car around town.

You may leave the lower arms you have in the car and see how they work with the ARB. That said, I'm willing to wager that if you went to an aftermarket lower control arm that mounts directly to the rear end housing like the stock arms, the car will launch much more consistently as it sits.
 
#143 · (Edited)
Cool New Hat From Lem Evans!!

Hey Guys... Check out the cool new TrickFlow hat from Lem Evans. It was only $455 bucks!! What a deal!! Oh yeah... There was also a TrickFlow Track Heat "Mafia" intake manifold in the box as well. No wonder it was so heavy!!




And no.. I'm not really going to sleep with it. It is already back in the box and dropped off at the post office. To where you ask? Why NitroPlate down in Nashville Tennessee of course!! We are going for their "Bright Polish" finish. It should look damn good when done. And be easy to clean. What is another $120 bucks when I already spent so much for the hat!! ;)
 
#145 ·
Oh hey.. No problem. Give me your address and I'll have it go right to you!!

With that being said I may not need it if my 4150 carbuerators don't sell. I had them on the auction block here but I took them down and put them on eBay instead. I need a quick sale!!

The Mafia intake did look a lot different on the inside floor just below the carb from my Edelbrock Victor 460. Other than that everything else pretty much looked the same. I have not pulled the Victor 460 off my motor yet. I want to compare the runner end diameter to the Victor 460's. I'm hoping the Mafia intake will match my head intake runner opening more closely.
 
#147 · (Edited)
Slow steady progress...

I finally got the engine compartment done. Firewall holes are also all filled and sealed. Now I just have to paint the rest of the car. It shouldn't be too bad. I already have most of it sanded down. I just have to finish the sanding, wipe it down and then let the "Gloss White" rip!! Below are some pictures of the finished engine bay and matching motor plate. I can't wait to take this thing for the first drive!!










 
#149 ·
Any reason why you're not running a mid plate? I'm going with a motor plate in my wagon and can't decide if I'm going to use a mjd plate or not. I'm just wondering if they are necessary or not.
 
#151 ·
The reason is that I don't have one. The people that made the front plate didn't make a matching mid-plate. The front motor plate loweres the motor in the car. So much so that I had to cut the mount towers off the K-member. I do have a few extra holes in the front plate that will bolt to more than just the water pump bolts. I'm thinking (hoping) that it will be fine so this is the plan for now.
 
#154 ·
The "SHINE" is going to blind you...lol, did you get the expensive hat nitroplated as well??.....lol.

ps- talk about shine, if you are interested there is a qft carb 1150 dominator, pn#4711(I think) for sale for $900 if thats what your after and need in the auction block.
 
#155 ·
Well I wanted a QFT QFX carb but I just made a deal with another forum member. I traded my QFT Q Series E85 carb for a Holley Dominator and some cash. It should be a good deal for both of us. Now I'll have the cash to go get some other things that I need to finish the Mustang instead of dumping $1100 on a new carb. I may get one eventually after I get this thing running but in the mean time I'll at least be able to start it and get it going with the new shiny intake!! I appreciate you letting me know about it though. I may have been interested if I had not just worked this deal out.
 
#156 · (Edited)
Off the subject...

I know this is off the subject but I pulled Hot Rod #2 out for the garage today. It has been stored away since the day after Thanksgiving 2011 for the winter. I know it is a bone stock chebby right down to the OEM air filter.. It isn't all that fast compared to something else that I own (a BBF). But it will glue the eyeballs to the side of your head in a turn, the roof comes off, it's a 6 speed manual and the A/C is always ice cold when you need it. It also has only a little over 20,000 miles on it and it is the perfect color combo. Silver on black!! It will be nice to drive this thing on the weekends again. I know it is a chebby so please forgive me. But I do love this car. AND... I LOVE SPRING!! And that is also my little buddy ( my boy ) Kevin showing off the boat that he made. 2 pieces of wood and 1 screw. You got to get them out in the work shop early. He loves hanging out in the barn with me.

 
#157 ·
Nice C5. I traded my '01 to my dad for his '83 mustang bracket car and trailer. Lots of people say I'm crazy, but I wasn't driving it much. And the little 408 sbf in the 83 runs real strong.

You know you can get those Vette's to run respectable numbers with very little. With just drag radials, headers, K&N CAI and a tune, I went 11.94 @ 117. Swap the 3.42s for 4.10s, shift like a man and now mid 11s are possible in good air. But you clearly got your hands full with the fox project.
 
#158 ·
Yep.. I definitely have my hands full with the Mustang. The beauty of the Vette is it starts EVRERY time, it has cold A/C and I would not hesitate to get in it tomorrow and drive it to California and back knowing that I would not have to lift the hood or turn a wrench once during the trip. If I were to do something to the Vette it would be the $6000 ATI ProCharger system kit. It would give a good HP boost and it would be a bolt on deal. The Vette is the car that I would like to take out to Bonneville one day and join the 200 mph club with!!
 
#162 ·
Hey thanks!! I don't know about the top notch though. I'm making this stuff up as I go along. I've never done anything like this before but that didn't stop me from buying a welder and getting after it!! :D I don't know anybody that does this stuff so I don't know how I got so into it. All my dad ever did was play golf. All I have to go off of is this website and 30 years of reading Hot Rod and Car Craft magazine. All I know for sure is I want to yank front wheels off the ground before I die. I'm pretty sure I will be successful if I can ever get this Mustang finished that is.
 
#165 · (Edited)
Engine Bling!!

OK guys... I got the Mafia intake back from NitroPlate today. To get it coated with their "Bright Polish" finish was $160 all together. That included shipping going both ways. They really wrapped it, packaged & boxed it up real nice for the return trip. There was no way that it was going to get scratched. Check out the before and after pictures below. I know it won't make it go any faster. But it sure looks nice. The inside of the pleneum (however you spell that) and the inside of the intake runners are all coated as well. Same for inside the water jackets. SWEET!!!!! :D

BEFORE



AFTER



 
#166 ·
The interesting thing about the small block in your Corvette, is that if you look closely at its design, you will note that it resembles the SBF. Center mounted thrust bearing, Intake/Exhaust/Intake/Exhaust ports and other details. This is especially apparent when the heads can be swapped with some work as they have roughly four head-bolts per cylinder and very close bore centers. Who knew?
 
#167 ·
That is interesting. I honestly had no idea. I have never worked on a SBF. And I do own an all aluminium LS1 but all I have ever done to that is check the oil (and no. It wasn't low). Maybe one day I'll do something to it but for now I'm content as long as I have my BBF 1993 notchback in the garage. That is where the real FUN will be!! :D
 
#168 · (Edited)
Still More Progress...

Well I did a lot more work on the Mustang this weekend. It seems everything that I do takes 10 times longer than I anticipate it will. I wanted to get the front suspension on along with the brakes & rack and pinion on Saturday. Then work on painting some of the body pieces on Sunday. Well as it turns out it took me all weekend to get the front end together. I ordered the Strange front brake kit for my car. Although they look real cool and everything appears to be aluminium art they were a real pain to put on. You have to cut pieces off the stock 1987-1993 front spindles. You then also have to drill and tap 4 3/8's holes. 2 holes on each spindle. The spindles have pieces sticking off of them from evey angle so getting them into my DeWalt metal chop saw proved to be a real pain. I had to chop off what I could and then use an angle grinder & metal bur to get the rest of the material off. A band saw would have come in real handy but I don't have one. It took a long time to get all of that accomplished. With that being said I did get it all done and it then went together real nice. I also got the Flaming River quick ratio rack & pinion on and the UPR bump steer kit as well. Although I didn't tighten the bump steer kit up yet. The instructions were all words and I needed some pictures. I just wasn't sure what the instuctions were trying to tell me to make parallel with something else. It was clear that an English major didn't write those instructions. Below are pictures of this weekends progress.

Here is one of the front spindles after I modified it.



All the rest of the pictures are just everything after it went together.









These pictures are after the front rack & pinion with bump steer kit went on.



 
#170 ·
Those were optional when I bought the K-member. I think they were $40 bucks extra. There is one on each side. They are just a safe place to tie down to when you are hauling it on a trailer or to hook to if you want to tow it in the pit area. .....or to hook to when you have to winch it back on the trailer after you blow rods out of the oil pan!! :D
 
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