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Anti-Seize??

6K views 20 replies 14 participants last post by  68formalGT 
#1 ·
I'm building my first 460 and I've got a set of Performer RPM heads for it. I've never used aluminum heads before. Do I need to use ant-seize lube on exhaust studs & accessory mounts? Does it affect "holding" in place over time? I was worried about any future teardown. I had some trouble with thread gaulding on aluminum timing cover when tearing down this block.
 
#2 ·
Anti-sieze should be used on spark plug threads and any other threads which go directly into aluminum if it doesn't have an insert or a heli-coil; except intake rocker arm stud threads which should have a sealant.

This is not just a 460 but, every brand is included.
 
#5 ·
#8 ·
Have you ever seen the PLATED high dollar platinum plugs in a Ford mod motor after someone has taken then out with the aluminum cylinder head threads still attached to them. Or, even that someone on the assembly line has tightened them to tight, (without any anti-seize), and they actually blow out of the hole because the aluminum threads have been pulled...?

I personally use anti-seize on EVERY spark plug I put into aluminum threads and I know better than to tighten them over-tight. In the 40 or so years some manufacturers have been putting that plating on spark plugs, I have NEVER broken one, NEVER had one break from over-tightening, NEVER got any anti-seize on the electrode to cause misfire, NEVER pulled any threads because of aluminum corrosion taking hold of a coated spark plug but, I have never had to deal with idiots who think they can simply install a spark plug yet don't have any feel for it.

All this crap from a spark plug manufacturer is simply so they can protect their own A$$ and avoid getting sued by some yahoo who has no idea of how to install a spark plug without making them overtight.
 
#6 ·
Has been so many times have a bolt break that would have not if anti seize was used. Anything that sees heat or salt spray or will be together a long time is a good application for anti seize. Any place threads may gall like steel in aluminum is a good application for anti seize.

Spark plugs in aluminum heads used to be recommended to use anti seize, but most spark plugs for a good number of years are made in a way that you do not need to use anti-seize and if you get the anti seize on the electrode or ceramic it can cause mis fire. It also to a small amount may effect the heat transfer between the spark plug and head. I just make sure to use the recommended spark plugs, clean the thread in the head, and inspect the spark plug threads to make sure they are not damaged in any way.
 
#7 ·
Using Anti sieze compound

I use it on most every bolt going into the block / heads or aluminum. On my present project I've dealt with a broke water pump housing Bolt, broken off in the block and a broken head bolt in the block. It was mid head and on the exhaust side. It broke with 8' of pipe on a Harbor Freight 1/2" breaker bar ( so much for putting down their stuff. You just have to pay attention to what your looking at). Anyway I like anti seize a lot more now.
 
#13 ·
I don't think anti seize is going to hurt anything I would use it. I had the pleasure of working at ford with the three valve plugs breaking and plug blow out on others .One the OE plug in the three valve was very very thin at the tapered seat when it was swedged , this and carbon build up on the tip would cause these to break very easy new plugs are more durable. Two as it turns out plug blow out was caused more from loose plugs then a ham fist overtightening them . I have had several engines come in where the plug was loose and just wiggles back and forth on the threads until it wears them off. Most of those tighten up and never come back.
 
#18 · (Edited)
The grey stuff....

Read the label too and look for the grey stuff with nickel in it. Not all grey colored anti-seizes are the same. On our race bikes the nickel content worked well with the sparkplugs. Nickel took the heat much better. There is a ceramic version too, but it's extremely expensive. We'd use this stuff on the slip joints of our Ti to SS exhaust systems.
 
#16 ·
I have a question and this is good timing as I am assembling my motor tomorrow. I have ARP head bolts and for timing cover water pump and intake and I have a 10oz bottle of ARP ultra torque lube and loctite N700 metal free anti-seize we use at work for nuclear power plant industry it good up to 2400 degrees after reading all this I'm thinking of using the ARP stuff just on the heads and intake and the loctite anti-seize on every thing else what do you guys think good ideal or what do you. Recommend
 
#17 · (Edited)
Anti-seize on:
Intake bolts
water pump bolts
head bolts/studs (under washers and between washers and stud nuts/bolt heads)
Main studs/bolts/rod bolts (same as above with head bolts)
Water neck bolts
Carb studs
EXHAUST STUDS/BOLTS!!! its a MUST!
Oil pan bolts
Spark plugs
Valve cover bolts
Timing cover bolts
Motor mount bolts
Rocker studs (unless they need telfon)
Trans to bellhousing bolts
anything that threads into the block or heads or intake.

I honestly would put it on everything, just makes maintenance and disassembly down the road easier. But don't use the ARP stuff on anything but whats required (heads/mains flex plate etc). Just get a bottle of permatex anti-seize for everything else. I also have the SS ARP bolt kit for the BBF and I put it on just about everything. But thats just me :) I broke a cheap SS bolt off in my brand new eddy head after just finger tightening it with nothing on the threads… If i had anti-seize that would have never happened and that was just mocking up something with an SS hardware store allen head 3/8" bolt just finger tight.
 
#20 ·
The copper is High temp which is too be used w/anything associated w/heat. The silver is too be used w/anything else.:)
 
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