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How much to build a 521?

5K views 27 replies 11 participants last post by  Colt 
#1 · (Edited)
I read the article from the archives, Popular Hot Rodding 2009 "Building A Big-Block Ford Using Shelf Parts”.

I Realize this is 5 years later, but can a person build an aluminum head 521 700 HP for under 10K? (Mostly "Out The Box" parts)

If you do your own assembly/wrench work, and have to buy the block prep, can you build an "All Motor" carb to pan, aluminum heads, balancer to flexplate with longtubes, dizzy and wires, add water pump and gaskets; Can it be done for less than $10,000?

It should be considered, Car Cruise Streetable, Drive to Civic Center Car Shows and 30 to 50 Dragstip Passes, depending how well you can cut a light. LOL. :):)

Sidebar>>> If you go to a crowded 'Test n' Tune' you might get 3 runs in. That, times 10 Wednesday Nights, would be 30 passes annually. If you went to Sunday Bracket Challenge, You might get 2 time trials and if you are a 'Tree Surgeon' you should go 6 rounds. That is 8 runs X's 3 bracket races a year, equals 24 passes. Total?....54 Dragstrip runs per year.

Now...if you also had luck on your side and was able to win one of the three Sunday events @ $2000, You'll be able to payoff the motor in 5 years. (If you built it right and don't break anything) :)


Add: If a guy is capable to assemble this configuration in his garage (Smarts & Tools) he can probably degree cam, port match intake, paint the block etc.

One more thing: Scotty, Lem, and Jon Kaase cannot be your best friends. Well, they could be, but they can't work for free for this exercise. :D....or Dave McClain :)
 
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#2 ·
If you shop for well matched components which are cost effective.

Use a well prepped eom block.

Assembly yourself...


I feel you can get there or at least be in the general neighborhood.



:D
 
#5 ·
A properly curved duraspark dizzy if MORE than appropriate.

Buy used when you can.

Torquer 2 or victor intakes are easily sourced used and cost effective.


S
 
#4 ·
#10 ·
Colt I think you missed something.....in Carl's answer was a link to his crate engines that match what you stated you were looking for. You see Carl builds crate engines ready to run all machined etc. Just send him your check and he will send you the engine. As I'm sure plenty of other engine builders on this site would be happy to do.
 
#14 ·
Yep, I realized that after I re read his question. Originally I thought that was part of his signature. Later the 'Light' came on. :)

But anyway Carl thanks, I went to your website. Here is what I came up with.

Ford 521 pricing

Carl, I took your 'Ultimate Fighter' and added your optional 'Fighter II kit and filled in the blanks and arrived at $11,795. Not bad for a turnkey but a little over the mark.

Headers $600 (SCJ Flange may cost more) Also true with TFS (I think)
Carb $1050
Flexplate $75
Dizzy Wires Plugs Coil $250
Oil Pan $375

'''''(scratching head) :)
 
#21 ·
Thank you for your input. I am putting a list together of parts, description, prices. When I have that completed, I will post it in this thread for further examination. :)

Nothing is etched in gold until the dollars start flying out the door. The prices I have contributed to this thread are not the end all.

Many times these type of inquiries become very subjective (opinionated / anecdotal) and when I get enough information /discovery, to finalize the plan, I hope it is objective, measurable and observable. :)

To wit: The ad that you referred to just describes the crank and the rods. And I sincerely appreciate your information.

The Scat Rotating Assy I referenced to in this thread (Researching 2 suppliers) includes, crank, rods, bearings, pistons, rings, pins, balancer and flexplate, ARP Rod Bolts, shipping and no tax. Measureable, observable and repeatable. :D

It is all good though IMO. Even stories contain a certain level of usable information while also being entertaining. :D
 
#18 · (Edited)
I read the article from the archives, Popular Hot Rodding 2009 "Building A Big-Block Ford Using Shelf Parts”.

I Realize this is 5 years later, but can a person build an aluminum head 521 700 HP for under 10K? (Mostly "Out The Box" parts)

If you do your own assembly/wrench work, and have to buy the block prep, can you build an "All Motor" carb to pan, aluminum heads, balancer to flexplate with longtubes, dizzy and wires, add water pump and gaskets; Can it be done for less than $10,000?

This was the original query.

Buying a 9 to 10K crate engine doesn't address the core question here!!!


If one shops carefully. Utilizes used parts where possible and practical. Gets quality machine work done and does assembly himself...

I feel it is possible or at least reasonably close. :D

Yes it will take time and patients to find the right deals...



S
 
#24 · (Edited)
I can assure you this is not a Tech School project! I've been outa tech school probably longer than you've been alive.

It's funny, I thought I was asking a legitimate question with proper ground work and you guys are telling me I should build the car first. I never said I don't have a car. Apparently you don't have any answers for my original question.
 
#27 ·
Cheap power find a good used late model EFI engine, something don't need a rebuild. Ball hone, rings, bearings, new oil pump, zero deck block, cut valve notches. Then do what Kaase did in 2006:

"7th update, P-51 heads on 466

Today I changed the 514 Ford short block (really 521") to a 466 Ford Motorsport assembled short block. Besides the stroke difference, 4.3 to 3.85, the compression on this one was 10.2 to 1. The 514 is 12 to 1. It has cast pistons but I doubt they would hurt the power. With a 256/262@.050, .761 lift, 108 LSA roller cam the 466 made a best of 678 HP and 598 Ft/Lbs. I changed the cam to the 272/280@.050, .788 lift, 106 LSA roller cam, the one that was the best in the 514. It then made 701HP, 596 Ft/Lbs. The 466 was about 100 HP less, 55"less and 2 points of compression less. Still it's not bad for a passenger car short block. You have to figure that compression would have helped a ton with the bigger cam. The cast pistons were .010" deck clearance, plus 16cc dish and valve pocket. They already had the SCJ intake relief. I used the unported Victor intake with a 1150 King Demon. All and all, not bad. It took a load good at 2300 rpm with both cams, a little better with the 256-262 cam. Peak power was at 6500, peak torque was at 5000. It was around 450 Ft/Lbs at 2500 rpm. The 256-262 cam fell off 80 HP more than the 272-280 cam at 6800rpm. It would be a pretty good street engine with the smaller one."

Low $$$ freshen up, solid roller cam, P-51 heads, Victor intake. A smart guy could do this for under $4K, be a bit lazy do it for $5k.

Point is are a lot of ways to make power on the cheap. Now forged pistons be nice, better rods be nice, but for a weekend cruiser making a few pass if you are not stupid with the thing it can have a long life. You would have to keep on top of the valve train with that much lift, but is not impossible. Just one example...
 
#28 ·
Thanks, Sounds like a good build on the cheap. If that engine was built with .000 deck, it might have given Jon the compression he'd like for the big cam.

Thanks for an intelligent post.
 
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