I run a P-51 Headed BBF in a Drag Race Application. The temperature is difficult to keep a handle on which makes short breaks between rounds tough.
I have tried a restrictor plate , a high flow thermostat and no restrictor. All with similar results. My radiator is a Fluidyne with twin fans (on during race), 2 bottles of Water Wetter and I run a Meizere water pump.
Any ideas, short of using a mix of race gas and alcohol?
Charlie, I don't have the block number handy... 1986 460 Truck block.
Originally I'd installed a set of Kometec gaskets but took them out because I discovered I had them facing the wrong way. Then I found that the manufacturer discontinued them, so I bought a set from Jegs. This was another mistake... after about 15 passes I had a carb backfire and upon further review, I found no compression in #6 & 7 cylinders. On teardown, the gasket was gone between the two cylinders. Also, major deterioration between 2&3.
So, I've bought a set of SCE 535546 to try. Maybe there's something better out there? That'd be good to consider before I put this thing back together.
in a street rod that i used to race there wasn't most room for a large rad. and fan so at the track i would use a pump up one gal weed and lawn sprayer hook up to a spray bar on the rad it would cool that engine down real fast between rounds just pump it up and pull the trigger work great used it in line to to stage alot
dragweek quickest street rod
22009 2010
Like Quick52 said, if you're in a part of the country that doesn't have high humidity putting some moisture in the cooling air flow will greatly increase the amount of "contact" (re. density) of the ambient air. I've seen advertisements for misting systems that are designed to be used around your home patio that claim 20* drop in the ambient air temps in the immediate area. Something like that hung around the edge of your pit awning would probably help too. Fans and moisture...and a "tic-tock" system on the race car should help too. Hope that helps.
Rob
Are you squeezin? How much compresion? I run a 13.5 P-51 BBF with a Summit Fox radiator,2 Jegs pusher fans with an electric water pump.The fans and water pump turn on with the ignition.I have a separate switch to control the pump and fans under the hood and a mechanical temp gage screwed into the front of the intake.Easy to use and keep track of the temp without leaving my rocking chair.
In Texas at about 80 F the car comes of a 10 sec pass at 160-170 on the mech.gage outside and the same on the elect inside.Takes about 5-7 min to cool it to 140.
Typically about 85 F in New Hampshire, I can start a run at about 170 and be up to 200 plus on my return to the pits. I'm going to have the radiator checked... maybe that's the main issue.
I stage my 351C at 180 and it's 200 across the line at 1/8 mile. Run the fans and wp in the pit for 5 minutes and we're back below 180. I like to run mine hot - less wear and tear. I use dual fans off a mid 90s LT1 Camaro, a Summit 31x19 two core aluminum radiator and a Mr. Gasket water pump drive. Our Mustang uses a 26x19 with two wimpy 12" eBay fans and it gets to about 210 on a run but cools off real quick in the pit, under 5 minutes. That's in summer BTW. In the cool spring, if you leave the fan/pump on for 5 minutes on either car they will be 140 or less.
Make sure the water pump is wired up the right way so it isn't running backwards.
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