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Overheating with dual electric fans!

11K views 22 replies 11 participants last post by  customblackbird 
#1 ·
I bought a Summit radiator w/ dual 10" fan/shroud setup. Fans seem to pull hard but engine overheats. Running 180 deg stat. and fans are set to come on at 190 deg. Engine gets to 210......too hot for 11.5:1 compression. After reading some other threads it would seem that the fans are not enough. They are pullers rated at 2300CFM. Do I need to upgrade these puppies?
 
#3 · (Edited)
And an FYI, higher compression engines don't, in and of themselves, run any hotter than a low compression engine. In fact they might tend to run a little cooler because of the thermal eficency of the burn and usually its a more complete burn and that makes for less unburned fuel to heat the exhaust with. FWIW. And what in the WORLD is that contraption in your avatar? A Honda Cicic on a school bus tractor frame???? lol
Rob
 
#5 ·
I think he was probably concerned with detonation that might be brought on by the higher temerature. Or at least that is how I read it.

Have you had this carb running on this engine before along with the new radiator setup? If not it could be running lean.

You didn't state the horse power level but if you are at 11 something to one chances are you have a good little bit of HP. I'm betting that it is 2300 cfm combined. And that is just not enough... IMHO.
 
#6 ·
does the engine cool down when u can get it out and to 30 or 40 mph if so your cooling system is large enought. just needs more air over the rad at idle or low speeds so make sure the fans pulling all there air thur rad and not from the sides . try a box fan in front of your car if it cools your is not sized right . jeep liberty, ford tauras have a bad a$$ fan but pull a ton of amps. im running the jeep with a small rad. 19x25 with no trouble even at woodward dream cruise in 90 degree @ 1mph check ebay
dragweek quickest street rod
2009 2010
 
#7 ·
you got me alittle scared. I also have the summit rad. mines the 19x31" though with dual 1" cooling rows all aluminum. Im running dual 12" procomp fans http://www.store.procompelectronics.com/index.php?target=products&product_id=36840 not sure i understand there flow CFM from there site. And im running a high flow procomp aluminum water pump with 16lb rad cap and 160 tstat, fan will be set to turn on at 170ish.

You didnt make any mention to what waterpump your running. perhaps a 160 tstat and high flow waterpump will help. But dual 10" fans seems too small... im worried about my dual 12" fans not being enough, dual 14 or dual 16" fans would be optimal for me.
 
#12 ·
you got me alittle scared. I also have the summit rad. mines the 19x31" though with dual 1" cooling rows all aluminum. Im running dual 12" procomp fans http://www.store.procompelectronics.com/index.php?target=products&product_id=36840 Aftermarket parts not sure i understand there flow CFM from there site. And im running a high flow procomp aluminum water pump with 16lb rad cap and 160 tstat, fan will be set to turn on at 170ish.

You didnt make any mention to what waterpump your running. perhaps a 160 tstat and high flow waterpump will help. But dual 10" fans seems too small... im worried about my dual 12" fans not being enough, dual 14 or dual 16" fans would be optimal for me.
I dont like their flow CMF on their site. It confuses me, haha
 
#9 · (Edited)
This works much better than those wimpy *** ProComp fans:

31x19 Summit + mid 90s LT1 Camaro parts.


And run them hotter - 180~195, not cooler. Aluminum likes hot and 200F is not hot as far as the engine goes. Trying to run one at 160 increases wear and in most street performance applications you can't hold that temp anyway.

We also have a 1970 Mustang with a 400 HP 351C that uses a 27x19 Summit and a pair of 10" fans on a shroud. It's a drag car and the fans will let the car overheat if you let it putt around enough on hot days. They do not move very much air. But they will pull the engine down from 220F post run to 180 in under 5 minutes in the pit.
 
#11 ·
i want to run a shroud however space between the waterpump and rad does not give me alot of room even for a flat type shround. I wish i had large sheet of .100" sheet aluminum like a door panel to make one.

I went with the procomps bc the price was right and they are pretty thin fans.

I say 170 the fans will turn on but i dont think the motor will run any cooler than 190... just a guess with the tight rad area on a 1987 firebird.

hot much u pay for that Lt1 shroud and fans?
 
#19 ·
Thats funny Rob and others because my truck would stay at 205* with a shroud and one 2100 cfm 16inch fan but removing the shroud dropped my temps to 185-190. So I am gonna have to call Bullsh*t on that one just like windage trays adding horsepower!:rolleyes: Been there done that and they are both a joke!
 
#22 ·
Sorry been that route spent good money on pre cut and formed shrouds to find out the hard way it made things worse. My set-up now the fan is rigid mounted to the radiator frame and sits 1/2" away from the radiator.

I guess maybe in a vehicle with very limited frontal area the shroud could help in theory but not buying it for now.
 
#23 ·
I have to agree with bigblock86ranger.... im not really worried about not having a shroud. My stock rad was a single aluminum core stock rad, with dual fans that had to be 2" away from the rad core and had NO shroud. Used with a stock Iron waterpump and underdrive pulleys, All i had was a 160 Tstat and i had the fans turn on at 177 and off at 160. This was with a chevy stroker 383 and it NEVER got above 190... not even in summer NJ humid traffic.

Solid shrounds dont help, you need shrouds with vents in them that open as the air is pushed through (like driving around), pics that falcon67 posted shows the vents in the stock LT1 shroud.

I would assume with more cooling, a larger radiator, high flow aluminum pump should in theory have a better cooling system than my stock chevy cooling system.

the firebird frontal area is compleltely closed off, but it scoops all the air from below the front bumper, it utalizes a front air damn that forces air into the rad at speed. So if i have cooling issue it will be at idle/low speeds.
 
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