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locking out distributor not a good thing??

9K views 29 replies 14 participants last post by  bigblok86ranger 
#1 · (Edited)
my car idles MUCH stronger with more timing at idle. Just wondering if locking out the distributor is a big no-no for my application since my car is primarily street driven. Engine is:

TFS Street headed 533 with 260/269 solid roller,
10.68comp 91octane
1150dominator, victor intake
c6 tight converter and 3.70 gears
4,050lbs galaxie 500 convert.
running 31* total timing

im pretty sure its the tight converter bringing my idle down but was wondering if i get a start ignition retard and run full timing if you guys think it would hurt anything.

P.s- the it idles fine in neutral, comes down too much in gear.
 
#2 ·
oh yeah distributor is MSD billet (no vacuum advance :( ) with 1 light silver spring and 1 heavy silver. I see it has the blue bushing which should give 21* advance so i was thinking of perhaps ordering the large black bushing (unless someone here has an extra one!! LOL) that only gives 18* mechanical advance which should in theory give me 3* more initial advance which might help the idle a tad. thoughts??
 
#3 · (Edited)
Primarily street driven? I'd try to get vacuum advance if possible. Locked timing will make it harder on the starter (best to have starter and ignition separate so you can get the engine rolling before firing the plugs). No vac advance prevents you from getting as much advance as you'd like when under part throttle cruise mode. What would be good is about 18* advance at idle, 45* or so at part throttle cruise, and 33* or so at WOT. Soo, light springs in the mechanical advance with approx. 16* of mech advance and vacuum line hooked to manifold vacuum limited to about 12* of vacuum advance.
 
#4 ·
locking out the timing would still be tough on the starter even with a start ignition retard? I know a vac. advance would be a better way to go but seeing that ive already spent good money on this distributor i would prefer to make it work the best possible. car is primarily street driven but only sees about 1000miles a year.
 
#6 ·
we lock out the street cars all the time, buy a starter saver /start retard,done.


it will idle better,start better, youll love it.
 
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#8 ·
My hot rods are locked at 36 or 38 and use a 10 degree start retard. Works good, especially with a bigger cam. I'll be I crank the car 50 times at the drag strip and no problems. Use a good PMGR starter and it should be fine. You'll get a kick back occasionally, but that's expected.

Another trick is to but a switch in line with your ignition box power lead from the "key on" source. Switch that off, get the motor spinning on the starter, then enable the ignition box and it'll light right up.
 
#11 ·
thanks for the replies. I just put in 2 light silver springs for now, which according to the charts should give me about 5-7* more at idle. i get my carb back monday and see how it runs and if it starts hard when hot. if it aint good enough ill try locking it out and using a start retard or possibly just getting a looser converter or both or a combination of everything.
 
#12 ·
Another option is to run full manifold vacuum instead of ported vacuum.
 
#18 ·
Wasn't there a member that was machining his own bushing that would allow ~20* mechanical advance and selling them awhile back?

I think he was running 12 initial and 32 total. That would be nice and easy on the starter.
 
#22 ·
I've always ran a locked dizzy on every engine I've ever had...........no streetcar stuff.

Just be sure to check the rotor phase if you do, we dont run any sort of retard on the smallblock car, no spinning it over and hitting the switch................starts better than my wifes explorer..............;)
 
#26 ·
Yes, there has been one who posted that they had done something like that in the last few years...good for them.
A good friend did several different bushings for me about 6 years ago......the o.d. was too big to fit the msd slot. So, feeding the msd diz. what we want does not always work.
Seems most people would rather lock the diz up and give msd more $s for some thing that at some point will fail....so I quit thinking about.
Mean while back at the ranch......if the carb or whatever one is using is correct and adjusted correct...life will be good with the light springs and black bushings.
 
#27 ·
i just put in the black bushing (and light springs) and got it to idle ok but didnt get to set the timing because im sure the neighbors dont like the noise. I might drive it to the park tonight with a friend and set the total timing to 31* and see where the idle falls and go from there.
 
#28 ·
Lem I been thinking about going to the 21* bushing but keep the same total to soften up my launch a little or maybe install one or both blue springs. My cam is already retarded 4* and my engine still blows the tires off on the launch. I have made some mods to the suspension dealing with not enough droop but not sure if that will be enough. Any thoughts?
 
#30 · (Edited)
Just trying to move the powerband without having to change the cam I honestly went too small on my cam. I don't want to lose any top-end but the low-end is obscene with my combo and I am trying to stay with traction bars, besides the suspension work I am also having the converter reworked so I may not need to lose the low-end but looking what some other options may be.
 
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