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429 install into 1968 montego wagon

52K views 429 replies 24 participants last post by  68xr7cat 
#1 ·
Hello everyone I have a 1971 429 motor that I am currently installing into my wagon. I know it's not a complete car build up or restore but I have some questions and would like some advice. I have what I think are thunderbird or boss motor mounts. They are the big wide ones that bolt right to the block. And I have bought frame mounts that bolt to the frame. I know I am missing the insulator which I was going to make myself because they are way to expensive for a hunk of metal I can make myself. Anyway I got the engine on the crane last night and lowered it down in my car, which is up on jack stands in my garage. To have my engine down far enough to get the power brake booster on and get the trans to fit as well as the gas pedal z bar to work my block mounts are basically sitting on my frame mounts. My question is how can there be a 4 inch tall insulator???? I'm dumbfounded! So I took the frame mounts off and lowered it in and have it sitting where I want it and it clears everything and I can get the top bolts in the trans. But the frame mounts on the block are about three inches away from the frame!! Does anyone have an pictures of what the mounts all bolted together and in the car look like??? I was going to buy the crites kit but that's 210$!! And it looks like it would make it too tall. My airplanes gonna already be sticking out of the hood. And any pictures of what your 429 looks like in your engine bay, spacing from the firewall and side to side but mostly I just want to see a pic of the engine in a mustang or whatever and see what the mounts look like. That's I appreciate it. Ned d to move past this so I can get going.
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#68 ·
I thought I had it a tooth off or something it kept back firing out of the carb. I was so puzzled then I saw a picture and looked at the wires and it clicked. Thought to myself why the hell didnt I notice this before.

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#69 ·
Yes it helps to take a step back sometimes. I got frustrated and pushed the truck out of the shop and went home. Was going over everything in my head the next day and finally came to me..Ha.

I laughed when I read your post, as I went through the exact same symptoms, and was thinking the worst....
 
#71 ·
Prob 11-12 quartz. I hope you didn't run it too long without trans fluid?

D


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#72 ·
We all make mistakes. Sometimes best walk away and come back fresh is best.

Regarding the C-6 takes about 12 - 13 qts. Put 6 qts. in the pan, start it up run at idle, and add until you get to about 11 qts., then check level. Remember when you check the level you need to put it in all the gears then back to park, then check the level. You are good when you are at the low end of the fill line. ATF will expand with temp. and final check should be done after running it for a few miles to get the fluid good and hot. On final check fill it to the upper mark.

Steve
 
#73 ·
Thats what I had read online. Just checking. Think ill buy a case. No I had it running for maybe 15 sec. Gonna get some fluid tomorrow. Ok ill try that. Hoping to get it on the ground this weekend.

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#77 ·
I want to get a new pan gasket and a filter on the c6 bit I dont know what year it is. Is there a way to tell what kind I need. All I now is it was out of a later model van with a 460. Any thoughts would be great!

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#79 ·
So I finally got everything together, fabrication, mounted and on my car. Filled the trans up with 7 qts and fired it up. I warmed it up set the timing. Had to shut it down and replace the thermostat oring out for a gasket because it was leaking. Fixed that but now I fitting tube I pressed into my aluminum water pump is leaking. So I get I have to take the water pump off and try and fix that. But what if it still leaks when I put it back on. I would hate to have to do it a third timem any tricks involved here? Besides that it ran great!!!! Only had a foot and a half of exhaust. But the sound of the air movement from that thing got me fired up for sure. Cant wait to back it out of the garage and drive it. Sooo close I can taste the burning rubber!!!!

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#80 ·
Years ago I'd chase every little leak. My first set of aluminum heads drove me nuts. My brother used to tell me a story about how the Caddy dealers would put two tablets of GM sealer in each car. This was back when they had the idea of cast iron heads on an aluminum block. Mopar used to put a small amount of sodium silicate in their anti-freeze to help seal small leaks.

Just get some alumaseal or similar (just don't use those Bars leak pellets).
 
#82 ·
Any time you have dissimilar metals you can have corrosion. Anti-freeze has additives to deal with the corrosion issues. I used copper pipe years ago for the heater lines and had no issues. The engine had aluminum heads, intake, and water pump.

I'd think as long as it is pressed in tight should be good. If you want to install the correct bypass tube here is one place that has it.

http://www.alexsparts.com/products....TUBE,-NIPPLE-SBF,-BBF,-351C,-351{47}400M-&-FE

Original Ford PN: C5AZ8555B My be able to find a dealer that has one. Yes, they are cut to size.
 
#83 ·
Yep. and note that antifreeze loses these additives as it gets older as they "fall out of suspension" in the antifreeze. So, keep your antifreeze current. The water that you use matters as well as minerals in your locality's water supply might increase the bimetallic corrosion rate.

I like to use distilled water with a 50/50 mix.

Local engine rebuilders might also carry the steel bypass tube as it does corrode overtime.

http://macsautoparts.com/ford-thund...ong-c5az-8555-a/camid/THU/cp/JS0R3CHL1118792/

Often your neighborhood Napa or? parts warehouse will stock the aftermarket steel replacement as well. Although the Ford part is preferred..
 
#84 ·
Well it turns out my dad had two of the stock pipe inserts. So at time I will have to get it to stop leaking or switch it out. Really dont want to take the water pump off though. Any way I got the exhaust hooked up and fixed my rough idle. All my plugs were fowled from cranking it over for so long with the wires on wrong. I also made my own powersteering brackets.
Couldnt find a bolt long enough to go through the bracket so I used allthread as a stud basically. Made brackets from metal bar and training wheel bar. Lol. Doesnt look too bad. Got to drive it today but since it was miss firing so badly from the fowled plugs I didnt get to enjoy it yet. Do you think I should put a air fuel guage set up on it to fine tune the carb?
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#86 ·
I know of a local company that remans stock converters and also restalls them. I was lucky enough to have the owner give me a tour while I had a converter bring worked on and he explained how easy it is to change the stall in a converter to 1800-2500 with only some minor machine work. He didn't go into specific angles of fins... as that is propiety info but still quite simple.
 
#89 ·
Looking good. The PS brackets almost look factory!

All I ever did was adjust for peek idle RPM, then reset the idle speed, do the other side, reset idle speed, and repeat one more time. The best way to set the idle A/F is with a CO meter or wide band O2.

Make sure to check that the fuel bowls are set right before adjusting everything. I also plug the vacuum advance before adjusting the carb.

Steve
 
#90 ·
Thanks steve! Thankfully I have all this thick steel laying around I can use. Well I got the brackets and pump painted and on. The stock alternator brackets wouldnt work. Mounted my alternator way to low and it hit the frame. So I had to make new ones of those. But its all together and painted and running. Painted the engine bay too. Cant wait to drive it tomorrow!

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#92 ·
Well my starter I got from a guy off here took a crap ladt night while I was waiting to pull it into my shop to change fowled plugs and mess with timing and such. So now I need a new one I guess. Sucks because it was a nice new looking mini starter. :-(

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