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69 fastback 552 Prostreet

34K views 119 replies 25 participants last post by  blu69machI 
#1 · (Edited)
This is my horse, and it had a 466 in it and it was hurt, as I kept digging and digging I found more stuff going on with the 466. I pulled the engine and transmission to get a better look and decided to send the block to shop to see if it was worth saving. Turns out the block is ok but needs to be bored out to a total of .060 over. The C8ve heads had 2 bent exhaust valves on 4 and 8. It had KB pistons and #1 was cracked along the valve relief.

The block is in the shop awaiting the stroker kit. I ordered the 552 stroker kit Scat forged crank, H beam rods and Flat top probe pistons with SCJ valve reliefs. Just waiting for it to get here. I also have some SCJ-A heads to add to the new engine. I currently have a new Comp Cams 306S that I had pulled the trigger on before I knew the 466 was hurt. I'm thinking I will still use this cam vs. going solid roller right now.

Planning on running a plate system unless I come across a fogger deal.

The car is going to be street with occasional track nights for grudge racing. I'm hoping to beable to run it on meet days too someday.

I'm getting ready to notch the shock towers to get some more room in the bay. I'm also researching how to get rid of my brake booster so that I can have more valve cover room . disc in front drum in back.

I try to post more pics when I get home.


Old 466


#1 valve relief


Think I'm going to try and get a hood with like a 7" cowl induction


My 4yr old helping take the engine apart
 
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#7 ·
Just an update, I did get both shock towers notched and dual wilwood master cylinders with pedal installed. Just heard great news today that my 552 rotating assembly has been balanced and shipped so sometime next week I hope it will arrive and I can drop it off at the machine shop locally. Decided that I will get a custom grind solid roller for it and sell the solid flat tappet kit. Been trying to figure out how much this thing weighs so I can be accurate when ordering the cam, anyone have a guesstimate?
 
#11 ·
Sweet looking ride! When you notched the towers, is that a kit or did you do it yourself? Will that work on the cougars? Their towers are the beefier ones (same as the boss i believe). Also, when you had the stock booster, how did you get those valve covers to clear it? I have a set and cant get them to fit in with my booster in my cougar.
 
#12 ·
Thanks for the compliments.

The shock towers wasnt a kit, I found an article online here:
http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/suspension-articles/498392-notching-shock-towers.html

the Passenger side I did with a plasma cutter and it was my first time using one and I had quite a bit of clean up because I couldnt cut it smooth and I later found out the setting werent the best. The driver side I used a cutting wheel, and an air saw and it worked AWESOME because it was straight and smooth and I planned it better after I did the first tower and saw how I could improve on the mod, like welding from inside the shock tower etc.

That booster was extremely close and it was a pain to get to that valve cover bolt, so I got this setup and just put the brake pedal on the outside of the column, maybe an 1/2-1" and this is actually more comfortable with the extra space.

This past weekend I patched up the firewall to get rid of the holes that arent needed.

I pick up my int balanced 552 rotating assembly tomorrow from Fed Ex so I'm hoping to get that to the shop this week.
Hopefully this weekend I can get some time to tinker more.
 
#24 ·
#17 ·
rear end

So I pulled the rearend so that I can replace the leaky pinion seal, plus I realized that it doesn't have a vent. I have a question and I tried searching online but didn't find an answer. Can any of you gents tell me if the vent has to be on the axle housing or can I tap it into the back of the pumpkin toward the top? I played with the idea of using the filler hole but I think that the location may be too low. I found a art morrison filter over flow that I would mount into the trunk with a hose going to the vent on the diff.
 
#18 ·
It can be either or, the axle tubes are not internally sealed at the pumpkin end, so its wide open.
 
#22 ·
I bought the pedal assembly as a kit from Speedway Motors out by my house. it came with the 2 master cylinders your choice of size and the pedal assembly. I also bought a remote adjuster cable so I can change the ratio of front and back brake pressure without getting up under the dash. The master cylinder and pedal assembly cost about 160.00. The cable was like 40.00 bucks. I still need to get the fittings and tubing.
 
#25 ·
Yes that's the company and that's the brake kit.

Shock towers: Hey I'm glad you put that article together, it gave me some confidence to attempt it myself. Thanks!

Pretty excited, I spoke with Mr Evans the other day and he is putting cam specs together for me and will call me back, so I can order it from him.
 
#27 ·
first BBF build, first time getting a custom grind. To tell you the truth I just wanted to say "Hey Lem whatever you see fit, heres my card grind away" LOL As a matter a fact I got so excited that I forgot to ask what the lift was and hung up the phone. Then I just sent him the spec request through 429-460. I'm really happy with what he spec'd out and can't wait to get the project done.

Had to go play with the dyno and drag software just for sh#ts and giggles. I know it's probably not all that accurate but, it's a lot more fun why you have the actual cam specs to play with. Now back to working on this rearend.
 
#28 ·
first BBF build, first time getting a custom grind. To tell you the truth I just wanted to say "Hey Lem whatever you see fit, heres my card grind away" LOL As a matter a fact I got so excited that I forgot to ask what the lift was and hung up the phone. Then I just sent him the spec request through 429-460. I'm really happy with what he spec'd out and can't wait to get the project done.

Had to go play with the dyno and drag software just for sh#ts and giggles. I know it's probably not all that accurate but, it's a lot more fun when you have the actual cam specs to play with. Now back to working on this rearend.
 
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