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More efficient '83 F250 tow/haul rig

2K views 7 replies 5 participants last post by  Aviator77 
#1 ·
Howdy folks!

I am attempting to use what I have, an '83 F250 4x4 460 with C6 Trans, and build a more efficient tow/haul rig. I have already removed the pointless smog equipment, have an Edelbrock carb and manifold, installed a stand-alone electronic distributor, and looking to replace the heads, cam and rework the stock exhaust manifold.

Once upon a time I had an amazing guru tell me I should put 429 heads and an "RV cam" in it. Is this still true for what I am trying to accomplish? Or does someone more "in the know" have better suggestions? I guess this is specific to what heads and cam I should get for this pig, and whatever other helpful additions I should install.

Also, where can I get the best heavy duty radiator for this truck?

Thanks in advance.
 
#2 ·
For tow rig, I would use the stock cam and look at a fuel injection system (aftermarket TBI like one from Holley http://www.summitracing.com/search/...ageSize=24&SortBy=Default&SortOrder=Ascending

You could do some exhaust side porting (following Scotty's guidehttp://r-h-p.biz/bbf_technical_index ) to improve flow. Don't waste your money replacing heads unless you want to bump compression up (for more performance) using an early model small chamber head (like D0VEs). But then you would need/want to have a hardened exhaust valve seats installed and you would have to run premium gas.

The term "RV cam" means nothing. But usually this refers to a short duration, low lift, cam profile - which is what the stock cam is.

IMHO
 
#5 ·
The low static c/r 7.7 to 1, retarded cam timing and emissions ignition curve kill efficiency...


We have a regular fuel sea level package we do for HD carbed towing.

8.5 to 1 460 0 decked
Budget ported D3's, factory rockers with upgraded pushrods
Custom 213/219 voodoo cam n roller timing set
Performer intake
Holley 750
Curved duraspark distributor


380 HP / 490 torque and reliable as rain.



Follow this build and you will have a great running truck.



S
 
#6 ·
Do what Scotty says and you won't go wrong.

I will also add to what he said... Don't get hung up on the horse power figures he quoted. A lot of the time people equate more horse power with worse gas mileage. This will only be true if you run around with your foot to the floor all the time because you want to feel the extra horse power or if you build an all out race motor. But what you are actually doing if you follow Scotty's recommendation is creating a more efficient motor. Meaning it has the ability to produce more power on demand if needed but it also has the ability to be more efficient when driving down the highway at part throttle.

I once had a 1979 Bronco with a stock 400M engine. The thing was a dog and got 7 to 8 MPG. It had a 4 inch lift and 35 inch tires. It was a beast but could not get out of it's own way. DOG SLOW! I then put a Ford SVO 514 crate motor in it with a Performer RPM cam and intake along with a Holley 850 and a MSD distributor & 6AL ignition box. Yes it got crappy mileage when you had your foot in it but just going down the highway it got 12 to 13 MPG at 60 miles per hour! That may not sound like much but it was a 50% increase in gas mileage when I was not running the crap out of it. Before with the old motor I had to hold my foot 3/4 of the way to the floor to maintain 60 mph. With the new motor I barely had to touch the throttle pedal to maintain 60 mph. Thus it was a MAJOR increase in efficiency.

So that is my story. Good luck with your build and quest for better MPG. Listen to the guys on here and you will get there.
 
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