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Old 06-14-2006, 01:43 PM
SillyBoyTroy SillyBoyTroy is offline
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Default Ladder bars vs. Traction bars, truck pulling

I'm looking at making up a set of bars for my 88 ford f-250 4x4 w/a 68 thunderjet. I run in both the stock and modified classes. In the stock class, I can "block up" my rear suspension, but the blocks have to be removable...a rule. The idea being that the stock suspension is there, as oppossed to removing it and making it solid. This truck won't see the road, except to drive to a fair near by. With the blocks installed, there is zero suspesion travel. Is there any advantage of ladder bars vs, traction bars? I like the idea of the ladder bars being welded directly to the rear axle, but its more labor intensive. The tracion bars can be bolted right on top of the leaf springs via the U bolts . I go to two pulls a year as a hobby.
So, cheap is good...lol I'm just looking for ideas/input .

I've wrapped up the driveshaft a couple times in 14 years of pulling. Wheel hop was the culprit last year.

A dumb question....lol What if I just put flat bar where the shocks should be? Theres no travel, so why not?lol


Thanks for looking, Troy
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Old 06-14-2006, 06:40 PM
broke33 broke33 is offline
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Im not an experienced truck puller, but I have done some research regarding axle wrap for my own applications. The following link helped me alot in deciding what approach I chose for my axle wrap prevention. Take a look and see if it helps some. Some more experienced truck pullers might chime in with some of their experiences, but this is still good reading.

http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/susp/axlewrap/
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Old 06-14-2006, 07:24 PM
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Thanks for the link!

After reading over the material, I'm leaning more on the single bar, bottom mounted set-up. My suspension isn't going to travel, so the more "engineered" set ups aren't needed really. Anyone else what to add to this? I appreciate it. Troy
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Old 06-14-2006, 07:49 PM
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TRUKPULR TRUKPULR is offline
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OK here's a traction bar set-up that looks like it moves but doesn't ..
Very easy to make and Cheap .......

What I did was weld a piece of 6x2x30" long tubing to the axle.. I cut a hole for the axle and slotted it and welded it all the way around so it was at a little less then a 90 Dreg. with the frame pointing up....
Then I took a piece of 2x2x 24" angle Iron and welded it to the frame so it drop in line with the traction bar and drilled a 1" hole for a Big 1" Grade 8 bolt. when it's all done it looks like the traction bar should pivit on the bolt. but it can't due to the fact that for it to move the axle has to rotate some and with it being welded it can't .. so no Blocks are needed..
And the best part is they'll just smerk as they tech you thinking your going to bounce like a bunny cuz you don't have any blocks in there...
Untill you yank the sled out the end on your pull then they'll all be really looking at your set up trying to figure it out .. but just keep your mouth shut and load it on the trailer.....




One other thing to do is make the front as soft as you can ...
make the spring sag till it hits the bump stops and put 4 shock on it if you can get away with it .

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Old 06-14-2006, 10:13 PM
SillyBoyTroy SillyBoyTroy is offline
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I'm looking at your pics of the front axle, and I see one pic with the newer style leaf ( I have two on my f-250). The other pic looks like the older style (1977etc) multiple leaf set up. You mention making the front springs sag as much as possible., by means of softness. I take it you are using a ladder bar set up there, its hard to tell inthe pics exactly whats where. I always just thought a stiffer spring would be less prone to wrap up. But, with a ladder bar there, it wouldn't. What the advantage of the softer front end, spring wise? The downfall of my front end right now is its the dana 50 IFS. Yuck. I'm shopping now for a dana 60 to replace it. The thing that sucks about the IFS is when you hook, the nose rises and the geometery goes way out of whack. Tires kick in towards each other in both front and bottom directions. I'm thinking softer suspension would only make it worse, no? There isn't much clearance between the bump stop and the springs in the front, maybe 2 inches tops. I've thought about putting straps to limit the spring travel, keeping the geometery in place.

As for the ladder bar set up on the rears, I'm leaning towards the solid, weld on approach as you say. Do you or anyone else out there have pics of thier set ups? Be it suspension and hitches. I'm wayyyyyy over here on the East coast and will never be pulling against ya...lol Care to share a secret? E mail me @ REEFCRAZED@aol.com if you could. I'd be tickled.

I've beaten the Chevy boys, many of them tweaked. I'm an honest stocker....well was, until the thunderjet found its way under the hood last year. I do it for a hobby, and enjoy it. I'm taking out the fuel tanks, and that frees up space for a better designed hitch. I've been competitve all the years I've pulled. My next pull is July 24th, so, its time to dust off my toy and get to playing around. Any input is greatly appreciated. Thanks, Troy
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Old 06-15-2006, 06:45 AM
fordman300 fordman300 is offline
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getting the igfs front to sit on the bump stops will help to keep the wheels flat of the track. it will make them tip out while sitting and flatten out as you puill and the front end picks up. the added rake helps alot too
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Old 06-15-2006, 07:39 AM
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OK here's some tricks where using this year...


Here's the part that makes this work ...
We ordered a 6" lift kit from JCWhittney and only put the middle pieces in and used a 3" lift shackle on the springs ....


I wish I could get you some pictures of the ladder bars I used .. but I sold the truck and now it's 2 hour drive away ..

As for the spring sag in the other pictures there both of the same truck ..
I actually cut the bottom leaf off 3" at a time till I got the sag I was looking for with all the weights on the weight bar ...
You Can't see it but the bottom spring is only about 10" long .. It use to be 20"..


ShaZam
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Old 06-15-2006, 09:13 AM
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Great ideas! looking at the "partial" lift kit offsets the suspension and levels with pulling. I like that. I saw a truck with a lift kit in one of the local junk yards, now if I can only remember which one...lol Thank you for the pictures.

I was looking at my truck last night, and thinking about the ladder bar set up. I'm taking out the fuel tanks, and that will allow me to run a square tube between the rails. That makes it alot easier to mount up a ladder bar set up.

Wheres the high pinion dana 60 when I need one?lol Better yet, wheres the time to put it in? I'll be looking for a posi unit for a dana 60 front in the coming months. If you know of one....scream... :wink:

Thanks for the input guys. Its very helpful.


Anyone else wanna bend my ear? (well, eye)

Again, thanks
Troy
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