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  #31  
Old 01-22-2011, 01:06 PM
SPLUHAR SPLUHAR is offline
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cross member pics on ebay & in fordification:

http://images.search.yahoo.com/image...mb=VJG0hDjZYNh

http://www.fordification.com/forum/v...16ff3&p=478123

Last edited by SPLUHAR; 01-22-2011 at 01:09 PM.
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  #32  
Old 01-28-2011, 03:47 AM
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The class I'm running in on the Redline Time Attacks is a class that you need to use the stock frame and body (modified class) . I can still change the roll center and the handling level without welding or changing the frame it's self . Tubular upper contol arms and bigger sway bars will amaze you , and just putting on 18x8"s on our cars will do wonders .
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  #33  
Old 01-28-2011, 09:33 AM
SPLUHAR SPLUHAR is offline
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Can't see how you can change roll center w/out frame changes. I have big sway bars and much stiffer front springs. The changes make a huge difference, but I know that there's a huge difference more between what we got w/ the stock frame and what is possible. Unfortunately, there's just no way to get there w/o cutting. Tubular control arms won't fix roll center/camber curve by just bolting them in to the same holes that are there. Stiffer and lighter, yes. Changing geometry, no.
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  #34  
Old 02-04-2011, 02:29 AM
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You will have to change caster and use longer ball joints . You basicly are just moving your roll center "closer" to the center of gravity by a couple of inches . And don't go to stiff with the front springs (650 front , 450rear to start), both swaybars ..yes . And speaking from a running on Friday an Saturday night point of view , I do think our frames are really untapped .
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  #35  
Old 02-10-2011, 09:46 AM
SPLUHAR SPLUHAR is offline
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Looks like you're going to need about 2" longer ball joint. Keep me posted as to what's available. I made my own 650 springs (cut down 01 f150 4x4 front springs) and they are too soft still (much improved over stock 400's) for the street. They are getting cut down to raise the rate up to about 750 (and lower the car about 2 1/2"). The 200's I have in the back make the rear of the car stiffer then the front, and ill be leaving them. They should match pretty good when I'm done raising the front rate. For road racing I'd probably go w/ about 900 or 1000 up front and about 275 or 300 in the rear. I've heard that Chevy van front springs can be cut down to give desired rate. I have the stock Lincoln 1 1/8" front and 5/8" rear bars. My car needs more rear bar, which would compliment the heavier front springs combined with the thick front bar. PST sells a 7/8" rear bar. I think "psquare75" on this board, has one in his Cougar. He may be able to shed some light on how it installs, how it handles.
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  #36  
Old 02-10-2011, 10:36 AM
turbo2256b turbo2256b is offline
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Something like this http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/reader-rides/4690/
A bit mixed up about what chassis you are using but if its the strut rod/arm front end there are tons of circle track front suspension stuff for it as well as brakes. This ype of front end was commonly known *** the Holman and Moody front end in the old NASCAR days.
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  #37  
Old 02-10-2011, 05:51 PM
SPLUHAR SPLUHAR is offline
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I drive a 76 Elite. Same chassis as a 78 tbird. It's my daily driver. Nothing special, just trying to make it handle as well as I can get it to. Holman & Moody used a Galaxie chassis (basically the same thing). They would cut the top of the frame off, weld on a new spring bucket (lowering the upper control arm mounting area, which "fixes" the geometry) and add fabbed control arms. see links:

http://www.ndgearheadscruiserproducts.com/id35.htm

http://www.motorator.com/videos/901

Here's a link showing some of what found searching and asking, to modify the front end for better geometry.

http://forum.grantorinosport.org//72...514_page1.html

Last edited by SPLUHAR; 02-10-2011 at 06:36 PM.
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  #38  
Old 02-15-2011, 09:27 AM
psquare75 psquare75 is offline
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Heard my name.



Only picture I have of the rear bar from Addco. It's a 7/8 bar and bolted right in. There is a larger rear bar (1 1/16" not sure) from a 77-79 police package LTD II but they are VERY difficult to find. The cheapest solution would be to use a front bar flipped to the rear of the car and installed with some brackets welded onto the frame. Then you could use a 1 1/8" front bar in the rear if you chose.

FWIW, Having run several store-bought shock absorbers in these cars, stiffest I found by far were Bilsteins for a P71 Crown Vic. Bolt right in. HOWEVER, with 17" wheels and even 275/50/17 tires, which have a decent sidewall, the car rode like a truck. With 15" 225/75/15s, The car was about perfect for street duty.
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  #39  
Old 02-24-2011, 10:23 PM
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Nice stuff on the tank . Ranchero had 7/8 sway bars and some big Lincoln Town Cars .
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  #40  
Old 03-01-2011, 11:09 PM
MauriSSSio MauriSSSio is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psquare75 View Post
Heard my name.



Only picture I have of the rear bar from Addco. It's a 7/8 bar and bolted right in. There is a larger rear bar (1 1/16" not sure) from a 77-79 police package LTD II but they are VERY difficult to find. The cheapest solution would be to use a front bar flipped to the rear of the car and installed with some brackets welded onto the frame. Then you could use a 1 1/8" front bar in the rear if you chose.

FWIW, Having run several store-bought shock absorbers in these cars, stiffest I found by far were Bilsteins for a P71 Crown Vic. Bolt right in. HOWEVER, with 17" wheels and even 275/50/17 tires, which have a decent sidewall, the car rode like a truck. With 15" 225/75/15s, The car was about perfect for street duty.
do you think those crown vic shocks would fit my 68 Galaxie?
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  #41  
Old 03-02-2011, 01:43 PM
SPLUHAR SPLUHAR is offline
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Link to Monroe shock mounting specifications and shock lenghts. Just cross reference shocks from 68 Galaxie and Crown Vic and check ends and lengths. I used this to find that Dodge Dakota shocks, among others, fit in the front of my Elite.

http://www.monroe.com/catalog/docume...engthSheet.pdf
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  #42  
Old 03-02-2011, 04:09 PM
MauriSSSio MauriSSSio is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SPLUHAR View Post
Link to Monroe shock mounting specifications and shock lenghts. Just cross reference shocks from 68 Galaxie and Crown Vic and check ends and lengths. I used this to find that Dodge Dakota shocks, among others, fit in the front of my Elite.

http://www.monroe.com/catalog/docume...engthSheet.pdf
thanks thats pretty cool. if i want extremely stiff shocks in the front to protect my headers, do i go with a shock that would have a longer length?
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  #43  
Old 03-02-2011, 04:34 PM
MauriSSSio MauriSSSio is offline
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i see the galaxie and 88' Corvette have the same mount ends. The galaxie shock is 9.25" compressed and 14.35" extended and the vettes is 11.5" and 15" would that not work?
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  #44  
Old 03-03-2011, 01:13 PM
SPLUHAR SPLUHAR is offline
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Springs support the load, shocks control the bounce of the spring. Stiffer springs would do a better job at stopping the header from bottoming out. Siffer shocks should be used to help control the siffer springs.

You don't want longer shocks, you want stiffer springs. Longer shocks would just bottom out, which is bad for the shock. Choose a shock with the same or very similar compressed and extended dimensions.

I used 2001 f150 4x4 springs cut down to give me about 650 lbs per inch, up from about 425 or something like that. I've heard of cutting down chevy p/u and van springs to fit also, but may be too stiff. I would go to rock auto and cross reference springs from different applications (bigger cars, big block cars, etc) and look for thicker wire diameters. Some even give spring rates. Also, go to ebay, look at the springs there and ask sellers to measure wire diameter w/ an open end wrench. Here's a link to a coil spring calculator. Most of the front springs are about 5 1/2" diameter. You probably need springs w/ one flat end. That goes at the top. The bottom of the last coil should set in a pocket on the lower control arm. That's how I came up w/ my set up. Also, cuting off coils raises the rate, so if you buy a longer spring @ 550 and cut a coil off, the rate will be higher by the percentage of coils that you cut off.

http://www.proshocks.com/calcs/coilsprate.htm

Last edited by SPLUHAR; 03-03-2011 at 01:22 PM.
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  #45  
Old 03-05-2011, 04:41 PM
MauriSSSio MauriSSSio is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SPLUHAR View Post
Springs support the load, shocks control the bounce of the spring. Stiffer springs would do a better job at stopping the header from bottoming out. Siffer shocks should be used to help control the siffer springs.

You don't want longer shocks, you want stiffer springs. Longer shocks would just bottom out, which is bad for the shock. Choose a shock with the same or very similar compressed and extended dimensions.

I used 2001 f150 4x4 springs cut down to give me about 650 lbs per inch, up from about 425 or something like that. I've heard of cutting down chevy p/u and van springs to fit also, but may be too stiff. I would go to rock auto and cross reference springs from different applications (bigger cars, big block cars, etc) and look for thicker wire diameters. Some even give spring rates. Also, go to ebay, look at the springs there and ask sellers to measure wire diameter w/ an open end wrench. Here's a link to a coil spring calculator. Most of the front springs are about 5 1/2" diameter. You probably need springs w/ one flat end. That goes at the top. The bottom of the last coil should set in a pocket on the lower control arm. That's how I came up w/ my set up. Also, cuting off coils raises the rate, so if you buy a longer spring @ 550 and cut a coil off, the rate will be higher by the percentage of coils that you cut off.

http://www.proshocks.com/calcs/coilsprate.htm
if you cut a coil, itll raise the rate but wouldnt that also lower the car?

im currently running HD big block galaxie springs and theyre still way too soft for my liking and experimenting isnt an option for me since i have to remove the headers each time i remove the springs.

Last edited by MauriSSSio; 03-05-2011 at 04:44 PM.
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