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  #16  
Old 11-03-2010, 01:56 AM
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STOP! Don't weld on those mags! The slots are for multiple bolt circles. I promise you that if you just get the right mag lug nut (depth and thread size) and a mag nut washer it will work fine. I've used a plethora of those type wheels back in the day and they fit everything! Besides, if those wheels are actually Magnesium (which they may be) I guarantee you don't want to get them hot enough to catch fire....if they do, DO NOT TRY TO PUT OUT THE FIRE WITH WATER! The oxygen in the water makes a Magnesium fire even worse. Smother it instead. And if they are cast aluminum (which I suspect they are) then they won't weld worth a tinkers hoo-rah any way. As far as the lug nuts are concerned, the tapered shaft is just to facilitate starting the nut through the mag wheel. I strongly suspect that a straight shouldered one will work for you. Most passenger car and light trucks from the 40's on up have a 1/2"-24 thread. Hope that helps.
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  #17  
Old 11-07-2010, 06:27 PM
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I bolted the 9" onto the stock Merc rear springs and put on a couple of pickup wheels. It looks like I'll have to narrow the rear end about 3 inches for the mags to work.
Next I put on the front hubs and a couple more pickup wheels. I'm surprised that the 460 doesn't squash the front suspension down more than that. I guess I'll have to cut a coil off the front springs and see where that sits her.
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  #18  
Old 11-07-2010, 06:47 PM
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The bolts and the holes are tapered for their full depth, an inch or so. There are plates that go behind the wheels with the various patterns on it, but the 5 on 5 1/2 isn't one of them! I suppose a mill cutter could make straight sided holes the right pattern and use more normal wheel nuts and washers.
Everything we used the wheels on, except a Baja VW cut down pickup, was a chore to run them, they were always coming loose.
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  #19  
Old 11-08-2010, 05:24 PM
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Well, I cut a coil off the front springs and it didn't make much difference so I whacked another one off. The front end is about where I want it so I've just got to get the rear at about the same height now.
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  #20  
Old 11-09-2010, 02:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D Pope View Post
Well, I cut a coil off the front springs and it didn't make much difference so I whacked another one off. The front end is about where I want it so I've just got to get the rear at about the same height now.
Hey! Did Bonnie & Clyde drive that car at one time.


Looks good
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  #21  
Old 11-09-2010, 07:09 AM
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Now THAT'S back yard mechanicin' at it's finest! I had a '53 DeSoto 2dr that I ended up cutting down a set of mid size Ford passenger car coils to get about 1 1/2" of suspension travel. The car LOOKED better without any springs at all but it was just too dangerous to drive. Don't worry about the holes in the body, a little heat and a dolly will take those right out, I've done some body's that were WAY worse than that! In fact I helped a friend put together a '57 Chev that took 4 cut up cars to build! There's some good iron in them oldies. What is the bolt circle of the rear? You know that you can redrill the rear axles and drums to practically any pattern that will physically fit on the flange, right? I've done it frequently. LOOKIN' GOOD!
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  #22  
Old 11-09-2010, 07:10 AM
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Bonnie and Clyde never made it this far north! I think the Mad Trapper of Rat River might have been driving it when Sergeant Preston of the Royal Canadian Mounted Police finally caught up with him.
There's about a dozen high power rounds that went right on through and a bunch of 22 calibre that dented the passengers door up pretty bad. I don't need to worry about the ones in the door though since it needs to be reskinned anyway. Those high power holes need to be heated to straighten them out since the stretching work hardened them a lot.
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  #23  
Old 11-09-2010, 08:25 AM
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Well heat 'em up and anneal that steel! lol
Rob
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  #24  
Old 11-17-2010, 09:32 PM
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I decided to a bit on styIing instead of mechanicals today. I placed a 49 Monarch (that's a Canadian Merc for you south of the border types} grille in the opening to see what it looked like. It sticks out of the opening too far like a set of false teeth that are too big but it does have possibilities. I narrowed it up about three inches and that let it move back around three inches too. Now it won't stick out ahead of the opening. Next I took a second Monarch grille apart and put four more teeth in the first one. It looks like a keeper now. I'll have to even the spacing of the teeth out so the last one is closer to the end and it'll be great. The bumperettes have to go though.
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  #25  
Old 11-17-2010, 10:33 PM
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That grill looks bitchin with more teeth added, I concur though...ditch the bumperettes...they cover up part of that cool old grill. Keep up the great work and pics
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  #26  
Old 11-18-2010, 11:59 AM
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Looks way good. How about flipping the front bumper over?
Rob
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  #27  
Old 11-18-2010, 02:40 PM
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It looks better without the bumperettes. I tried turning the bumper over but the bottom just has about a 1 inch lip and it doesn't cover the gap in front of the bumper pan. I like the way it slopes under like a rolled pan so will have to see what I can come up with to make it work.
I started on the steering box and the Merc uses smaller diameter tie rod ends than the pickup. I noticed that both output shafts are the same diameter so I took off the steering arms and guess what? They're the same spline. The Merc one has thicker blind splines but a little friendly persuasion with a BFH gets rid of the excess material. That sure simplifies the process.
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  #28  
Old 11-24-2010, 08:05 PM
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I'm doing a bit of body work for a change of pace. There's a lot of heating and beating and welding involved.
I dug out a set of 53 Ford headlight rings so I'll French them in. They usually just weld the rings onto the fronts of the fenders and putty them in but that ends up with kind of a bug eyed appearance. I cut the headlight opening bigger and pulled the ring into place from the back. This will take way less filler and will retain the rounded fender and still keep the Ford inner chrome.
I tried one of the front mags for looks but it's just got one stud so it'll fit. I'm getting the local machinist to mill 11/16" holes in the Merc pattern then ordinary long straight shank mag wheel nuts will work. A local supplier wants almost $8 each for the nuts and on Ebay they're $25 for 20 of them.
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  #29  
Old 11-24-2010, 09:40 PM
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LOL Yup, that's some tough metal huh?
Rob
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  #30  
Old 11-28-2010, 08:02 PM
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I like the way you are headed with this build.....Nice work
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