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  #16  
Old 08-12-2012, 09:07 AM
superacerc superacerc is online now
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I don't have the cam specs. The motor was built in 2007 so it's been a while. What I can say is that it's bigger than stock but nothing extreme. Compression ratio is low not much more than stock. The heads are the stock cast iron units(they are heavy! Wish I had some aluminum ones) they have been port and polished. The engine is balanced and has roller rocker lifters so it's pretty smooth. I don't have vacuum advance. Only mechanical in the msd distributor. It's just on the configuration it came with(pretty conservative). Behind the headers are dual flow master 3 chambers that turn out behind the cab but in front of the rear wheels. You can see it under the bed step in some of the pics. It is a 750 street performer.
Thanks for the help and suggestions.

I'd really like this thing to run like it should.
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Last edited by superacerc; 08-12-2012 at 09:20 AM.
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  #17  
Old 08-12-2012, 10:19 AM
DanE DanE is offline
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As far as I am concerned, when you talk timing, you have to talk numbers. And timing depends on many variables,such as combustion chamber design, compression ratio, camshaft design, and area of rpm operation. It is the consensus that those flow masters make more noise than horsepower. Use straight through mufflers that have the pipe that goes straight through the same size as the pipe of your exhaust system. In your case I would use 2 1/2". 3" is too big and you would lose torque. I hope not, but as things are going, I would suspect that the roller rockers are 1.7 to 1 ratio chevy rockers, and not 1.73 to 1 ratio Ford rockers. That would cost you a little valve lift, but more than that, the geometery is wrong. It's not a deal breaker, but every little bit adds up. On the street you should be using a vacuum advance canister on you distributor. On the street with a 3.00 gear, you should be hunting for ever bit of torque you can find. No way should you be getting the poor milage you stated. I think you should take that beautiful truck to a chassis dyno and get it properly tuned. Only deal with people that arre skilled with the area you are dealing in. With all due respect, Dan





that would
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  #18  
Old 08-12-2012, 10:36 AM
superacerc superacerc is online now
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Definitely understand. Im a complete novice at building and tuning these beasts. I know how to repair and put back parts that are existing but as far as understanding the little details in the build im usually lost.

Well the distriburor is what it is I suppose and ill have to deal with it. The one that was on it had the vacuum cannister but it was capped off so I figured I didnt need it on the msd when I ordered it. Guess I should have came here first.

The exhaust is 2.5". I dont like the excess noise particularly(hence the sound deadening effort) and I didnt pick it out so it want my first choice, but ill just leave it alone.

I have no idea about the rockers. Ill probably switch out that intake like you said(the regular performer right? Not the rpm) and have the truck dyno'd and the carb and timing tuned. the shop near me here in tx only build fords and have a shop dyno theyve been trying to convince me to have them tune it.

Ill probably stop there though. I cant sink much more into it changing everything back out.

The rear is a 3.25:1, so I would like the best low range response and torque possible.
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Last edited by superacerc; 08-12-2012 at 10:44 AM.
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  #19  
Old 08-12-2012, 11:41 AM
superacerc superacerc is online now
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I've got the go ahead on swapping out that intake and having everything dyno tuned this week. I have no real response in the low end and hopefully that will take care of it. This truck has been plagued with litte hiccups that have kept me from enjoying it and they're almost all worked out now. Thoughts Dan or anyone else? I'll have them order the intake and when it comes in I'll take it up to them and let em do their business.

This place about a mile and a half from me specializes in fords. The first place I had build the motor was in GA and they were big on chevy's and race cars didn't do much in the regular daily driver dept or work on fords much. These guys have been around since the early 80s doing fords so I trust them a lot more.

I'm open to suggestions before I go in there to do buisness.
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  #20  
Old 08-12-2012, 01:34 PM
DanE DanE is offline
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You are on the right track now. When you have that Ford shop install the "perfomer" intake and dyno tune the engine, take in all the knowledge you can. What is the name of that Ford shop. "Cherry Bomb" sells a nice 2 1/2" straight through muffler at a nice price. Has a good mellow sound if it has some pipe behind it. Please let us know how things turn out. Dan PS-See if the Ford shop is interested in swaping your distributor for one with a vacuum canister.
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  #21  
Old 08-12-2012, 01:46 PM
superacerc superacerc is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanE View Post
You are on the right track now. When you have that Ford shop install the "perfomer" intake and dyno tune the engine, take in all the knowledge you can. What is the name of that Ford shop. "Cherry Bomb" sells a nice 2 1/2" straight through muffler at a nice price. Has a good mellow sound if it has some pipe behind it. Please let us know how things turn out. Dan PS-See if the Ford shop is interested in swaping your distributor for one with a vacuum canister.
Great. To get that distributor it'll cost me an extra 400 total. Is it really worth it? That's quite a bit extra. Will it really make that much difference? Where does the vacuum line on it come from? just the standard tree in the rear of the intake?

I've only got about 2 feet of pipe behind the muffler. I dont have any good room to run them under and out the back due to my fuel tank back there. I'll just leave them alone I think. I'm not looking for any crazyness I just want it to run correctly and have the low end pep I know is lurking in there somewhere.

The shop's name is Slater's Autoworks on 1960 in Humble Tx.
http://www.slatersautoworks.com/

Thanks a bunch Dan, any thing else you can think of let me know. I want this thing to be right for the next 10 or more years as a daily driver.

Edit: I just looked up more info on Vacuum advance and see the definite advantages to having it on there. I'll have them do both at the same time. Money is leaving my pockets too fast!!!
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Last edited by superacerc; 08-12-2012 at 02:00 PM.
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  #22  
Old 08-12-2012, 04:07 PM
psquare75 psquare75 is offline
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Nice truck! I have a 79 F100 with a mild 460. I think changing the intake will help. I went from a Stealth to a Performer with a 1" 4 hole spacer. I can usually whack the gas pedal while rolling 10-15 MPH to get a passengers head to bounce off the back glass now.

As for the exhaust.. Big doesn't mean loud.



3" pipes with an H to 2.5" long case Dynomax Super Turbo mufflers, 2.5" tail pipes, and 2.5" Dynomax bullets... which are pretending to be resonators.

This truck idles so quiet it has annoyed friends who think it needs to 'be louder'. I was on a quest for silent. Most of the power gains/loss are right behind the header anyway.. I think an X would have been quieter, but I didn't have the fabrication skills for it.

http://www.pontiacstreetperformance....p/exhaust.html

Just some food for thought.
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  #23  
Old 08-12-2012, 04:17 PM
superacerc superacerc is online now
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Thanks for the info psquare. I would have loved a quiet setup like that. In fact my subaru is setup similarly. It sounds like a stock forester mostly and is extremely quiet on the inside. In the motor however is 310 hp at tbe crank roughly and in another month ill have a different turbo setup and it'll be pushing 380-395 at the crank 335-350 at the wheels. All while sounding stock. Thats what I drive when im not in the 66.

For the moment though and my wallet's sake its going to have to stay the same. I just want the engine to run well first.

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  #24  
Old 08-12-2012, 05:34 PM
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Talk to "The Mad Porter" who is a member of this site. He is a specialist in very affordable ignition systems. Your distributor has good value and $400 is too much money to go from your distributor to one that will do the job for you. "The Mad Porter" is a great man to deal with and very knowledgeable about what you need. There are many people on this site who make their living dealing with 460 ford and related areas and are great to deal with. On your exhaust, do you have a "H" pipe? If not, it is easy to achive and on your combination I would guess the "H" to be worth about 20 lb/ft of torque and it will tone down your exhaust a little toward a more mellow sound. It was a pleasure dealing with you as your attitude was very good. Not always the case. Dan
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  #25  
Old 08-12-2012, 05:40 PM
superacerc superacerc is online now
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Thanks dan. the msd distributor is 300 something plus the labor charge. I guess I could do it myself in their parking lot. Its a pretty easy task and I did the last one. I know there are cheaper ones but I want reliable bullet proof parts I wont have to mess with down the road.

As for the H in the exhaust, I didn't know that would help that much. Ill try to get it done at a local shop this week. Before the mufflers right?

I understand that I dont really know much about these engines. I grew up fixing our 351w when needed but we never modded it other than putting it in the truck cause we had no money growing up. I only fixed basic stuff. Nothing internal. I'll never learn anything if I dont take advice.

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Last edited by superacerc; 08-12-2012 at 05:44 PM.
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  #26  
Old 08-13-2012, 06:14 PM
superacerc superacerc is online now
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Well today's F100 adventure included popping out the distributor to send it to mr scharfenberger and then installing some carpet that arrived on friday. The vacuum advance distributor should be here wednesday along with the Performer intake. Then on thursday or friday it will be dyno'd at the local shop and the carb will get tuned to smooth out the power nicely and make sure the air fuel mixtures are correct. Thanks for the suggestions Dan. I would have probably just left it that way and been mildly dissapointed with it's performance had I not been prompted to change it.

The carpet came from www.stockinteriors.com. It was premolded and fit great! It took me about 2 hours to pull out the seat(with the help of my beautiful wife) and custom trim it to fit inside around the gear shifter, seatbelts, accelerator and highbeam switch. It's not absolutely perfect but pretty dang good I think.

Have a look: Just realized these cell pics are yucky, I'll run take some nicer shots and upload them in about 5 minutes.

Better pics:




Grainy ones without the seat in:




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Last edited by superacerc; 08-13-2012 at 06:25 PM.
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  #27  
Old 08-13-2012, 08:22 PM
A70Maverick A70Maverick is offline
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Nice truck! Great job.
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  #28  
Old 08-13-2012, 08:57 PM
superacerc superacerc is online now
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Thanks. Its getting close to as finished as its going to get.

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  #29  
Old 08-15-2012, 09:08 PM
superacerc superacerc is online now
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Anyone have any hints for getting the distributor to pop in the last inch or so. The rotor is facing the correct direction and has grabbed the square shaft at the bottom but it just won't drop that last little bit. I've always been bad at getting them to get in there and it takes a while. Any Tips tricks or hints that you guys can throw at me I'd really appreciate it.

Thanks
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  #30  
Old 08-15-2012, 10:17 PM
DanE DanE is offline
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I don't pay any attention where the rotor is pointing. I am interested that the vacuum canister is in a position where it has the most travel left to right. Drop the distributor gentley into the hole until it stops its downward travel. Bump the starter a few times and it will drop in the rest of the way. Secure the distributor loosley with the distributor clamp. Take the #1 spark plug out of its hole and use your finger to plug the spark plug hole. Roll the engine over until you feel compression building up against your finger. Continue to roll the engine over until the timing pointer points somewhere between 12* to 16* on the harmonic balancer.Put the spark plug back in. With the vacuum canister in the middle of its left to right travel, choose the distributor cap post that is nearest the rotor and that post is where the #1 spark plug wire goes. Now put the spark plug wires on the cap according to the firing order, wiring counter clockwise. Move the canister counter clockwise as far as it will go. Turn the key on. Put a screwdriver into the end of the #1 spark plug wire and hold the screwdriver shaft about 1//6" from some metal for ground and slowley turn the distributor clockwise until a spark jumps from the screwdriver shaft to the grounding metal. Holding the distributor in the position where the spark jumped, lock the distributor down. Put the #1 spark plug wire onto its plug and the engine will fire up and in time. Use a timing light to fine tune the timing where you want it. Thats how I do it and it works. A lot easier to do than explain. I hope this helps you, Dan
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