Mr.Scharf's 1993 Foxbody Notch

[MrScharfenberger]

I'm finially getting around to posting my 1993 Foxbody notchback project in the car build up section. I got this little jewel at a yard sale for $300 bucks. At the time the owner told me that it needed a transmission and didn't run. After I got it home I put 5 quarts of transmission fluid in it and proceeded to drive it for 6 months. I also had to change the oil. It was way over filled and it was RED fluid. I guess we all know what he did. Oh well. His ignorance was a great deal for me. Anyway I'll list the mechanicals and post up some pictures. I don't think the pictures are in any particualr order. I'm much further along than this first batch of pictures may suggest. I'll post more pic's later. Below are the motor spec's and mechanicals.

1999 SVO Block bored .030 over
4.3 stroke SVO Crank (we all know this is a Scat cast crank)
J&E Flat Tops
Eagle H-Beams with ARP bolt upgrade
ARP Main studs
ARP Head Studs
SVO M-6049-A429 Cobra Jet Aluminium Heads
UPDATE - Jon Kaase P-51 Heads
Lunati 51606 Solid Roller Cam (.735/.735) with matching roller lifters, valve springs & retainer kit.
Update: ComCams custom grind solid roller cam (spec'd by Lem Evans)
Manely Extreme Duty Stainless Valves (2.25/1.76)
Ford Racing Chromemoly pushrods
Trend Chromemoly 3/8 pushrods
Crane Gold Race Roller Rockers (1.73)
Comp Cams Rocker Stud Girdle
UPdate -- I now have a Jomar rocker stud girdle
Edelbrock 4150 Victor 460 Intake (I really want the Mafia intake though)
UPdate -- I now have the TrickFlow Mafia 4500 style intake
Choice of Carbs:
QuickFuel Q Series 4150 1050 Carbuerator
--or--
QuickFuel E-85 4150 1050 Carbuerator
Update -- I now have a QuickFuel QFX FX-4710-1
Aeromotive SS Electric Fuel Pump
Aeromotive Bypass Style Regulator
CSR 2 Inch Open Spacer
Update: I now have the Jomar 1 1/2 inch power cone spacer from Lem Evans (THANKS LEM!!)
CSR Electric Water Pump (natural finish)
MSD 6AL Ignition Box
MSD Timing Retard Box
MSD Mechanical Distributor (can't remember the part number)
NOS Big Shot Plate System
Mad Dog Headers ( 2 inch primaries with 3.5 inch Collectors)
Power Master 140 Amp Alternator
Power Master High Torque Mini Starter
Dougs Electric Exhaust Cutouts
Summit 10 Gallon Fuel Cell
8 AN Braided Fuel Supply & Return Line
AN Fittings Galore
UPR Front K-Member
UPR A Arms
UPR Caster/Camber Plates
UPR Manual Rack Bump Steer Kit
QA1 Front Struts with Coil Over 175 Pound Springs
Strange Front Disc Brakes
Griffin Radiator (with CSR over flow)
Flex-a-Lite dual puller fans (4600 CFM)
TCI Full Competition C6 Reverse Manual Valve Body with Trans Brake
TCI 4500 RPM Stall Converter
TCI Trans Cooler (huge x large)
B&M Mega Shifter
Strange Chromemoly Driveshaft
UpDate: I got a P.E.M. 3 inch diameter chromemoly driveshaft via Cale Aronson
Ford 9 Inch Rear (setup for stock style suspension)
UPR Upper & Lower Control Arms (with aluminium bushings)
Moog 4 banger rear springs
Strange Drag Race Adjustable Rear Shocks
Moser 35 Spline Axles
Strange Pro Nodular Iron Center Section (Full Spool with 3.62 Pro Gear Set)
Billet Specialties 15 x 10 Rear Wheels
Mickey Thompson 28x12.5 ET Streets
Billet Specialties 15x3.5 Front Wheels
Mickey Thompson Sportsman tires (skinnies, I can't remember the size)
Jegs Mild Steel 12 poit cage kit
Scat ProCar Seats
G Force 5 Point Harnesses

There went tuition for one of the kids... The world needs ditch diggers too!!

$50 bucks says I forgot at least 20 other things... LOL

Oh yes... Like the motor plate and FluidDamper Harmonic Balancer!

What she looked like the day I got her!!



A tired old 2.3 litre with 102.000 miles on the clock.



Battle Box Reinforcements In And Welded.


12pt Cage In And Welded. (Hot Rod #3 in the background. Sorry... It's a bone stock chebby)


Another Cage Picture.


Hood That I Got From A Guy On CraigsList In Cincinnati. $150 Bucks. What A Deal!! It Fits Perfect!!


View Of Hood Cowl From The Inside.


Greasey Ugle Mess.


More Greasey Ugly Mess...

[MrScharfenberger]

It would only let me post 10 pictures at a time. Here are the last 2 for now...

Rustoleum!! A Miracle Worker!!.



Finally!! All the rubber crap scrapped off the inside floor From Firewall to Trunk. That took a LONG time.

[MrScharfenberger]

More pic's..

Brand New Billet Specialties Wheels & Brand New Mickey Thompson's. Life is good!!



Griffin Dominator Radiator & UPR Caster Camber Plates.



QA1 Struts with UPR Coil Over Spring Kit With 175# Eibach Springs. UPR K-Member & A-Arms



Rear Slotted Rotor Disc Brake Kit & UPR Control Arms.



Summit Racing Foam Filled 10 Gallon Fuel Cell. Interior Is Now Fully Painted Firewall To Trunk As Well.

[Taxman]

Quite a build. Best of luck with it.

Will you be OK with 28x12.5s without a tub?

[bigblok86ranger]

Looking good Chris!

Taxman the ET Streets are a 12.5" section width not tread width the tread is only ~9.5" they are just a hair smaller than the 28x10.5 ET Drags.

Did the rear springs start settling yet Chris?

[BigBlockRanger]

You do nice work!

[Taxman]

Originally Posted by bigblok86ranger

Looking good Chris!

Taxman the ET Streets are a 12.5" section width not tread width the tread is only ~9.5" they are just a hair smaller than the 28x10.5 ET Drags.

Did the rear springs start settling yet Chris?

Good to know...thanks. I'm looking at tire options for next year with the bigger motor. Those ET Streets might be perfect.

[MrScharfenberger]

Originally Posted by BigBlockRanger

You do nice work!

Thanks!! I really don't know what I'm doing... I'm just making it up as I go along. I could really use a mentor. This site is as close as that gets. But at least I had the sense to build a BBF!!

Originally Posted by BigBlok86Ranger

Did the rear springs start settling yet Chris?

Not yet. I don't have the motor or tranny dropped in it yet though. With any luck that will happen this weekend and she will sit down more on the rear wheels. The Strange front brake kit will get here today. Once I get that on I'll be able to set it down on the wheels and get the motor in for a mock up. I still need to run the front bars for the 12 point cage into the engine bay that will attach to the motor plate as well. I'm still not sure if I'm going to hide them in the front fenders and then bring them back in after I pass the strut towers or if I should run them through the strut towers. Time will tell. Any suggestions on how to do that part are welcome.

[MrScharfenberger]

Originally Posted by Taxman

Will you be OK with 28x12.5s without a tub?

After I got the rear end in I sat it down on the tires. Everything cleard fine. The only place I was concerned with is the front part of the fender at the bottom. It looks like I only have about a 1/2 inch of clearance. If these tires get taller at 100 miles an hour like I think they should I may have an issue. I may have to clearance the fender slightly to make it not rub. Once I get the front brakes on and it sitting on the ground I'll take a picture and show you what I'm talking about.

Other than that they look great. I went with the Billet Specialties wheels instead of the Weld wheels because the billet specialties were an SFI spec wheel. I'm not sure if I needed them or not but it wasn't much more money for the same style wheel.

....i also have dreams of sticking a set of 2.25:1 gears under it and taking it to Bonneville!! I want to join the 200 MPH club.

Hear that Blown473?? I'm going to make a run at thet fire breathing pickup you are building!!

[bigblok86ranger]

Only seen that tight of clearance with 29's maybe once the rear springs settle the axle will move back.

[MrScharfenberger]

Originally Posted by bigblok86ranger

Only seen that tight of clearance with 29's maybe once the rear springs settle the axle will move back.

The UPR control arms have adjustments for both the upper and lower. When I installed them I put them in at the recommend setting. I think it was 9 1/4 inches for the top control arms and 17 1/2 for the lower control arms. I could move it a bit that way. I'm not sure how much the axle will move back with weight on it. With those control arms on it, it is amazingly snug in there and really doesn't budge. It will obviously go up and down. But there is no side to side or front to back movement what so ever. I'm not that worried about it. I'll be sure it is right before I go to the track.

Got any suggestions as to how to run the front roll cage bars into the engine bay? Read the previous post I did in this thread for more details.

[bigblok86ranger]

Going through the strut tower is probably about the only way, I had thought about trimming out the shape of the cage tube where it would pass just to the outside of the caster camber plate but not sure how it would work for you. That would seem easiest way to me versus trying to line up the holes and pass the tube through it with out making the hole to large to weld all the way around.

[droppedf100]

Everything looks great so far but aluminum dash? Also what ever happen to the truck?

[MrScharfenberger]

Originally Posted by droppedf100

Everything looks great so far but aluminum dash? Also what ever happen to the truck?

Yep. Just a flat piece of aluminium to hold the gauges. Nothing fancy.

I still have the truck. It is still set up to drag race. I have about (and I'm guessing here) a 425 horse power 466 engine in it now. It keeps up with the Corvette up to about 90 mph. Then the Corvette runs away. I'll keep the truck forever. I like it to much to get rid of it. Plus it will pull the Mustang to the track and back. I'd like to race the Mustang and the truck. You know pull in the track with the truck with the Mustang on the trailer and run them both while I'm there.

[zephyrbob]

hmm, will we see it this upcoming year in byron?...bobn