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Old 01-02-2012, 11:26 AM
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Default Solid Transmisstion Mount??

I'm working on the Mustang today. I have the motor where it needs to be with the motor plate attached. I didn't like how high up the transmission mount pushed the transmission into the transmission tunnel. I've made a solid transmission mount that will attach the transmission to the transmission cross member. It seems like it will work fine but I'm a bit worried about having no flex what so ever without a rubber or polyeurethane bushing. Does anybody see or know of a reason why I should not use a solid transmission mount bushing?

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Old 01-02-2012, 12:11 PM
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Don't ever use a solid tranny mount bushing almost a garauntee to crack the trans case.

Chris their should be a short one and a tall one I believe the difference is stick or automatic.

But the trans will be a super tight fit on these cars you will need 90* fitting coming out of the tranny for the lines and always install the lines before final engine and trans installation.
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Old 01-02-2012, 12:19 PM
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Chris

I was told the same thing by my Chassis guy. Summit or Jegs has a good poly one that I used.

Clay
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Old 01-02-2012, 01:02 PM
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10-4. I'll use it today just for the mock up. I'll look into what Summit & Jegs have as an alternative. The stock one that I bought from Autozone was just too tall and the top of the trans was just too close to the trans tunnel. I'll see if I can get a shorter one. I'm glad I posted this question. I had a feeling that was the answer I was going to get.
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Old 01-02-2012, 01:21 PM
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Chris you can call me anytime between 9am-9pm any day of the week, as you know I have done over a dozen of them.
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Old 01-02-2012, 03:10 PM
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Chris

Here is a pic of the crossmember we fabed, mount, and the tunnel for the 63 hope it gives you a better idea. We replaced the complete tunnel in the car just for the extra room.

Clay



HPIM3736.jpg

HPIM3737.jpg

Backhalf for Fairlane 050.jpg
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Old 01-02-2012, 04:35 PM
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You have to see what your driveshaft angle is, and if the intake manifold carb flange is level and let those determine which mount you use. Placement in the tunnel is a non issue compared to those. But do not use a solid trans mount with a motor plate.
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Old 01-02-2012, 06:19 PM
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Thanks Clay.. That helps. I can see why you would need to fab a trans tunnel. That great big C6 in there is tight. The whole thing came about when I could not get the trans cross member bolted in when the trans was about an 1/8 of an inch away from the top of the trans tunnel. So I made a transmission mount bushing that lowered the trans away from the trans tunnel about a 1/2 inch. It was obviously touching up top somewhere and it would not allow me to get the bolts started for the trans cross member. After I put the solid mount in that I made I got the transmission cross member bolted in with no more problems. I checked all around and seemed to have clearance everywhere. I however knew that the solid mount was a bad idea. That is why I asked before I tried to run it down the track. I'll have to see if I can get a shorter transmission bushing. I had a stock one ($15 bucks from Autozone) that I was trying to use to mock the engine up so I could get the motor plate mounts weleded in. I did get the motor plate mounts in and welded and everything bolts up real nice now. I'll just have to get a new transmission bushing.

As for the driveshaft angle and levelness of the carb flange.... I have no idea what the drive shaft angle will be. I still have to measure for the driveshaft and order it (I'm going to get a Strange chromemoly unit). I can do that now that I have the motor & trans in where they will go. The carb flange definitely tilts down toward the back. The motor plate that I have sits the motor lower in the engine compartment and I have the rear of the transmission just about as high in the tunnel as I can get it without it touching and rubbing stuff. Im not sure how I could get the carb flange completely level. That almost looks like an impossible mission to me. There is always going to be some tilt to it. With the motor lower & the rear of the trans as high as it will go I'm thinking that is going to have to do. Your thoughts on this??

Last edited by MrScharfenberger; 01-02-2012 at 06:23 PM.
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Old 01-02-2012, 06:29 PM
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You can use a solid trans. crossmember mount if the chassis is stiff enough. Been doing it for years with no issues. If it's a backhalf or stock suspension type car, you should probably use a rubber or poly mount.
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Old 01-02-2012, 06:31 PM
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Here is a decent article on driveshaft angle.

I have been told the carb pad should be level. I know this is part of the reason we added the new tunnel. I do not remember what we ended up with for a driveshaft angle. I know the carb pad is level on mine. I will try to find some more info in my chassis books.

Clay

http://www.drivetrain.com/parts_cata..._problems.html
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Old 01-02-2012, 07:09 PM
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I have a stock style rear suspension car (however there are no more stock parts other than the rear spings but those are brand new). The trans cross member bushings are rubber. I bought the FoMoCo adjustable transmission cross member that you have to weld the bushing mounts in place when you get them where you want them.

I'll read the article Clay thanks.

I know you want the carb as close to level as possible but I just don't see how that can happen in this car. Lots of guys have to have the same issue with this as me and I'm betting they didn't do as through a job as you have by replacing the whole trans tunnel. And when I think about it with all the off road Jeep people that tilt their motors to all angles and even the drag race wheel standers they sure don't keep their carb level when they are doing that stuff and they don't seem to cut out because of fuel starvation. So I'm a little fuzzy on why the carb has to be perfectly level. The only real reason I can think of to keep it level all the time is the oil pickup in the pan. You don't want to get a big gulp of air in the oil pan pick up or have the oil run away from where the pick up is. But even with that being the case I have a oil pan with a rear sump so all of the oil will be running towards where the pick up is. I'm sure this thing is going to pull the front wheels but I don't know how high. But again that is controllable. I'll start off slow and work up... If anybody has any thoughts on this Foxbody carb level thing let me know please... I'm all for learning. I'm just not sure why it has to be perfectly level.
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Old 01-02-2012, 07:32 PM
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I have always set my engines at -4*, every stock engine mounting I have measured was also -4*. I have also found that quite a few intakes have a +4* built into them which sets the carb level. I read that this helps oil drainback and have always done it.
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Old 01-02-2012, 07:51 PM
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Oh ****!! Now I need a protractor. I'm wondering how I can get this done with just my B.F. hammer!!




Maybe I can just work the math and skip the protractor. A^2 + B^2 = C^2

I'll make sure it is a right triangle and then work the math to find the angles. I'll have to blow the dust of my TI-83!!

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Old 01-02-2012, 08:59 PM
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TI??? No reverse Polish?? HP all the way!!

Clay
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Old 01-03-2012, 02:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigblok86ranger View Post
I have always set my engines at -4*, every stock engine mounting I have measured was also -4*. I have also found that quite a few intakes have a +4* built into them which sets the carb level. I read that this helps oil drainback and have always done it.
I was out there trying to measure the angle. Then I decided that was useless because I have it up on jack stands. I'll have to get it on the wheels and set it down on the ground first.
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