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  #1  
Old 07-07-2012, 09:54 PM
murpher25 murpher25 is offline
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Default 1968 F100 360 to 460 swap

tearing in to my first engine and wanting to chronicle my build and maybe get slapped in to the right direction if some people choose to read my thread. Started with simple tear down right now. still have balancer installed with cam. Goals are just to have roughly 500-550 HP on pump gas. Just going in to truck that is used to pick up things at home supply store or eventually a tow rig for future boat. Budget is really undecided but I have one child with another on the way so it would be pretty modest. plus specialty tools are going to be bought along the way. I live in Portsmouth, Va. So if any of you guys know a good machine shop because I will be needing some work done. I am going with the same iron heads to keep cost down. and for right know I have 2 C6 trans one is longer then other not sure why right know but will find out soon enough. So I used another guys formula for posting hope this goes good...
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Last edited by murpher25; 07-07-2012 at 09:57 PM.
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  #2  
Old 07-07-2012, 10:01 PM
murpher25 murpher25 is offline
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More pics attached
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  #3  
Old 07-07-2012, 10:52 PM
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Ok why do your D3's have screw in studs?


thats a good start for your build.
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  #4  
Old 07-07-2012, 11:47 PM
murpher25 murpher25 is offline
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honestly not sure first tear down of 460. Do not have much history. I am least the third owner since pulled from vehicle. Thanks for the support and I was reading another thread on HP break down and what you "have to have" and was wondering if 500hp is even attainable with iron heads. He has TPS street heads for use to get that number. I am going to get the irons with larger ports and valve job and the whole shebang while they are there. because I want to be level headed with build and have already figured I will go from hyper piston to forged. I am looking at the Seal Power Engine Rebuild kit from Summit it is in the $550(hyper) or $635(forged) range. I am mainly looking for nudges or just straight up slaps in the face of guidance and points in the right direction as with everyone on here I just wany to do this once.
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Old 07-08-2012, 01:08 AM
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It looks to me that someone in the past, machined the heads for screw in studs/guide plates and ported them as well. The D3VE heads will support 500 HP easier than most people think. At one of the machine shops where I worked had me doing quick port jobs on D3VE castings mostly removing the "Thermactor" bosses in the exhaust ports.

I would when possible do some quick and dirty valve pocket work on them as well given time. These heads where destined for 501 stroker marine engines. With a fairly mild cam we where getting 515 HP out of the D3VE heads. So, they do have possibility's.
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1967 Mustang coupe, Mustang II front suspension. W/RV camed, D3VE headed, 460/C6 (soon to be 557 CID w/ported police interceptor heads) out of the box BBC headers(with homemade steel adapters)

Shocktower removal enthusiast.

The race is not over till the Fat Block Ford Sings!

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  #6  
Old 07-08-2012, 11:31 AM
murpher25 murpher25 is offline
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that is some good news. I have not done more then basic bolt ons and this has always been a goal of mine was to take an engine from tear down to build up. I am not fimiliar with the valve pocket work. I watch video on YouTube of a guy cutting in to the piston if that was what your talking about and how is that different then buying pistons with relief cuts in them?
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Old 07-08-2012, 11:52 AM
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Actually, the valve pockets I referred to, are just under the intake and the exhaust valves. These areas are somewhat restrictive as cast for performance applications. Ford casts them on the small side to increase velocity for low end gains I think and they end up being somewhat restrictive.

The chances that your current heads have had this step done already is excellent, as the ports look nice from the pictures.

Your pistons that you have in your short block are the EFI pistons (a common use for them as they raise the compression in the earlier applications) these work well for the mild builds with low overlap/duration fairly low lift cams.

As for your C6's it sounds as if you have a Lincoln Continental version (the longer version) these have angled transmission mounts in a "V" configuration.
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1967 Mustang coupe, Mustang II front suspension. W/RV camed, D3VE headed, 460/C6 (soon to be 557 CID w/ported police interceptor heads) out of the box BBC headers(with homemade steel adapters)

Shocktower removal enthusiast.

The race is not over till the Fat Block Ford Sings!

FBHO
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  #8  
Old 07-08-2012, 11:53 AM
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Nope, he's talking strictly about your heads.

Subscribe to this: http://r-h-p.biz/

And it looks like you're right, those heads have already been ported.

Even better!

And that motor had headers on it.

you found yourself a great start!
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Last edited by peganit; 07-08-2012 at 11:57 AM.
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  #9  
Old 07-08-2012, 11:59 AM
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What you have is easily capable of supporting 500 HP. If you can measure your valves and see what size they are that would be great. Stock heads came with 2.08 intake valves and 1.65 exhaust valves. If you are lucky you will have some 2.19 or 2.20 intake valves and 1.76 exhaust valves. That would make it even easier to support 500HP without even breaking a sweat.

Could you post some pictures of the exhaust ports on the heads? I'm assuming that the thermactor bumps have been ground out but it would be cool to make sure.

I did this same swap about 6 years ago. I went from a 360 in my 1974 F100 to a 521. Good luck with the build!!

Last edited by MrScharfenberger; 07-08-2012 at 01:26 PM.
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  #10  
Old 07-08-2012, 12:05 PM
murpher25 murpher25 is offline
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The only real porting I have seen is either YouTube or on HorsepowerTV. So my lingo is limited to them talking too a general audience. But after I was looking at what you were talking about the "Thermactor" bosses I was getting on the same page. I am going to be putting up more pics soon. I am keeping the truck carbureted.
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Last edited by murpher25; 07-08-2012 at 12:30 PM.
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  #11  
Old 07-08-2012, 12:38 PM
murpher25 murpher25 is offline
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I will get those measurements.
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  #12  
Old 07-08-2012, 01:16 PM
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Dang. It appears that the "Thermactor bosses" are still there in the exhaust ports. They are the "Bump" (with the hole) that clogs the port.

The Thermactor system is simply an air pump with other parts like one way check valves etc. that would inject air into the exhaust port to lower the nitrates of oxygen and burn the remaining gas vapors that simply needed oxygen to burn.

It also appears that you have stock valves in place (2.08 intake 1.65 exhaust) and you have gasket matched intake ports. That, and no valve pocket port work has been done.
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1967 Mustang coupe, Mustang II front suspension. W/RV camed, D3VE headed, 460/C6 (soon to be 557 CID w/ported police interceptor heads) out of the box BBC headers(with homemade steel adapters)

Shocktower removal enthusiast.

The race is not over till the Fat Block Ford Sings!

FBHO
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  #13  
Old 07-08-2012, 01:21 PM
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Oh, the longer C6 does appear to be the Lincoln version. Nothing really wrong with that just a "Funky" trans mount and a shorter "prop shaft" Not sure of the spline count though.
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1967 Mustang coupe, Mustang II front suspension. W/RV camed, D3VE headed, 460/C6 (soon to be 557 CID w/ported police interceptor heads) out of the box BBC headers(with homemade steel adapters)

Shocktower removal enthusiast.

The race is not over till the Fat Block Ford Sings!

FBHO
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  #14  
Old 07-08-2012, 01:29 PM
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Yep.. The thermactor bump is still in there alright. That kind of sucks. Weird that they would put on rocker studs and guide plates and not at least do the exhaust side port work.

By the way. You are going to need new motor mount towers in your truck. If you simply put 460 motor mounts on the block and drop it down in there it is going to sit cockeyed. ....ask me how I know.
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  #15  
Old 07-08-2012, 04:37 PM
murpher25 murpher25 is offline
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I was going to get the motor mounts from LMC they are about $180.
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