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  #31  
Old 06-11-2013, 10:00 AM
DeepRoots DeepRoots is offline
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Location: Douglas, Ga
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Last time home, I pulled the 3.25 rear gears, and cobbled up a third member with 4.10 gears. None of the parts fit perfectly so I've got a little whine in the rear. These are just junk parts but I wanted to get used to the lower gear set. Car runs scary fast with these. The downside? cruising speed results in 3800-4000rpms, I have a gear vendors, need to get a few more parts for it to get her installed. Currently feel like I'm driving the Daytona 500 going to get a pack of smokes.

Also this time home, rebuilt/replaced entire front end consumables.

all bushings, ball joints, sway bar parts, tie rods, shocks etc etc. This took 2 days as i ran into lotsa little issues with some parts as they'd been in there 50 years. The annoying crank bolt was rusted so bad an 8lb sledge and 3ft pipe wrench was required. Only part I didn't rebuild was the Idler arm bushings. The idler arm itself was rusty and pitted, new bushings fit REALLY loose. I cleaned everything, greased the heck outta it and slapped it back together, I'll deal with it later, maybe go to a roller bearing Idler arm.

Took it to an old timey Alignment guy. Due to the T-bird front wheels (for the benefit of disc brakes) I was only able to get the camber "close"
the alignment guy was awesome, he was really bummed, but it wasn't his fault and we discussed why. Either way, he spent 2.5 hours on the car and charged me $50.... I love this guy, I almost want to tip him everytime I go there.
Took the car up to 90mph, held the road well enough for me. Dead spot in the steering at center. I've had redhead steering gears rebuild other boxes for me, I may send this one off to be rebuilt. Last one I sent off made my truck drive like a brand new vehicle.

Tried to install new turn signal cancelling cam. Sadly only 64's are sold, they don't fit in my car.... Was going to try to modify it and make it work, but for now I don't mind manually cancelling turn signals.

After that, I'm going to take some time off this project to save money, drive the hell outta it. Next project: install the gearvendors that is on my shop bench, new third member, driveshaft, axles, torque converter.... $1000 saved, $2k+ to go :-) might have to sell some more junk laying around the shop, otherwise ETA for funding to be saved is somewhere around November/December.


That is all for this 2 weeks off, going back to work in 15hours or so.... be offshore for a month.
I've sure got a weird way of enjoying "time off" :P
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  #32  
Old 07-13-2013, 05:34 PM
DeepRoots DeepRoots is offline
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Location: Douglas, Ga
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Got home again. Noticed that in the summer heat the car doesn't want to start when hot. It'll crank over, but won't fire for long and by the time I get it running the battery is pretty much dead. I've had similar problems with my 390, specifically fuel boiling over and flooding the engine.

I really wanted to get an Edelbrock RPM air gap, they look super cool and I don't really need the first 1500rpms anyhow. I'm currently running a Edelbrock performer. The main issue I have, is hood clearance. As is I already have a drop filter base, and have about 3/4 inch gap between the hood and air filter. I'd have to buy a 2inch filter to make it work and it'd still be tight.
I waffled on this for a day and decided I'm a cheap bastid and will just work with what I have for the time.

The plan (which has worked for me with other vehicles) is to block off the exhaust crossover as it is the majority of the heat soak problems.
I'd planned to do that, and that only, until I pulled the intake. Spent a good bit of time cleaning the intake as it was fairly gas stained. Also regasketed the carb (750cfm AEM dbl pumper)



Engine looked nice and clean inside still.

Built my block off plates, get them set in and epoxied over them. I've done this before, it hold up to the heat no problem. Also I do not feel I'm destroying the value of the intake as 30 minutes with a die grinder can restore it to stock values.


Well.... I figured a performer would have smaller ports, but was surprised at the mismatch, and just how much smaller. The Performer also has like a lip of casting flash right on the edge of the port. I'm not expert but it seems this would make the air somewhat turbulent right before the port, so I removed it.
Took 45 minute with the die grinder and some sand rolls. Didn't really change the port much, just got it a lil closer to where I thought it should be. The intake is still a tiny bit smaller than the DOVE heads, but not much. My experience with other engines points to the fact that most airflow is on the top and upper sides of the port so I mostly worked on it and left the bottom of the ports as they were. I did not wish to effect the air velocity, was mostly wanting a smoother transition from one port to another.





The ridge:



Got her all glued up:










Last edited by DeepRoots; 07-13-2013 at 05:41 PM.
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  #33  
Old 07-13-2013, 05:35 PM
DeepRoots DeepRoots is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Douglas, Ga
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DeepRoots First On Race Day
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After this, nothing left to do but fire it up, check for leaks, set the timing (19initial and 37 total), and go for a ride (these are videos, click them if so inclined)







At the end of the day, this was a stupidly simple project, and so far I haven't had any problems with a hot start.
After years of working with FE engines, an intake R&R on a 385 is sooo simple. No rockers to remove, no hernia from lifting the intake, etc etc. Even dropping the intake on was without drama. Typically with an FE you get it all set and have to hammer the dang thing around to get all the bolts started.... this one went on with no issues.

That's all for now I guess.

Drew
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  #34  
Old 03-27-2014, 01:58 PM
DeepRoots DeepRoots is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2010
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I hadn't been keeping up with the project on this forum....
I've made a lot of progress tho since I last posted here:

http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/maki...5-galaxie.html

If ya wanna check it out.
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