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| Engine Tech A place to discuss all 385-series engine tech and theory. |
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#1
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hey everyone , just got my fox back on the road but having a issue at WOT the engine sputters and oil pressure guage needle starts to fluctuate rapidly but smooths out as soon as i just start to cruise, i believe it starts right as the secondaries open, could i been leaning out? this will also happen in P just reving the engine. a little info on combo, 460 .060 over, flattops, h beams, d3 heads, weind stealth, fms roller rockers, hooker headers,comp xe-284 cam and BG mighty demon 850 mech sec. around 10-1 i bought the carb off a guy that had it on a SBF so i dont know if he rejetted it for his application , but what jets should i start with as a base line for a bbf?? any carb adjustment tips>? thanks
Last edited by 92stango; 01-27-2013 at 04:56 PM. |
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#2
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What's your advance doing?
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If you're not living on the edge you're taking up too much space! |
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#3
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i have a msd billit dizzy and 6Al box, base is set at 0 and it locks out about 20. as i rev up to 4k. also it has silver advance springs
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#4
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Set base at 12-14 and try it with 32-34 total. Jets in carb without a power valve in secondary around 80-84ish to start I would think...
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557ci 70 Maverick, 8.93@151 1.28 60ft.... So far! '71 Torino Cobra Prostreet, 429/C6. |
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#5
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ok update i pulled the jets and the primaries had 85s and the secondaries had 93s. primaries have power valve. is this about right for this set up ? or will i need to start changing them out ?
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#6
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Quote:
Rob
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Rob Hawes-Anchorage Rod Works-Anchorage, Alaska |
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#7
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i will be doing just as a70 recomended, i was just curious about the primary jetting as well since im in there, based on how this engine is responding is it a lack of timing and to much fuel? sorry for the newb questions!! first carbed big block
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#8
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Quote:
Rob
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Rob Hawes-Anchorage Rod Works-Anchorage, Alaska |
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#9
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yea Rob it is a square bore double pumper, with a power valve in the primaries but NO power valve in the secondaries
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#10
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Quote:
Rob
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Rob Hawes-Anchorage Rod Works-Anchorage, Alaska |
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#11
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Honestly surprised you don't have over heating issues with 0 initial and 20 degrees total!
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Eric Millard bigblok86gt@yahoo.com Pumpgas 523 powered 2000 Ford Ranger Best run to date; 10.51@128.55 on 93 octane!!! http://www.poweredbyfordrace.com/ Trick Chassis Beloit,WI 53511 608-313-9197 |
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#12
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thanks rob for the advice i will start with the jets you and A70 recomended as well as the advance in timing ill check the power valve as well! and big block ranger i have noticed the car running hot, with a huge 3 core alum rad and 160 tstat , markviii fan its touching 210+ cruising in 80 degree temps, not enough advance will cause it to run hott?
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#13
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i am also using a FMS timing pointer which seems to be adjustable , you can loosen the scrws and move it , possibly i have it set wrong ill turn the motor over to tdc #1 and check to see if it is off!
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#14
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Having the ign. retarded will delay the burning of the A/F and it will be still burning going out the exhaust port. Instead of the heat going into making pressure to push the piston down and do work, it will go into the cooling system and exhaust.
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#15
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I run 205 to 210 and I have a brand new fan clutch, factory fan and super camper special rad which has been re-cored, I do run a180* stat which is a high flow unit. I don't think that temp is too hot.
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1964 F100 466 zero decked fuelie 7cc dish pistons, with RHP 2.11 1.65 budget D3 heads, Voodoo cam 219/227, rpm intake, eddie 750 performer carb, MSD Ignition, Re-Curved Duraspark Dist, 4R70W Trans with Baumann Re-cal kit, US Shift electronic Trans controller with B&M Megashifter, 2500 Dirty Dog Convertor, 3.50 gears with detroit locker. http://www.flickr.com/photos/36499599@N04/ http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rbl-v...3&feature=plcp |
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