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Old 11-06-2013, 08:49 PM
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Default 460 Burning Oil After Rebuild

Okay, here's the deal... I got my 1973 460 rebuilt by a local highly recommended rebuilder. Got it rebuilt right, pretty much stock, RV cam, .040 over with .040 pistons and moly rings. Put about $4300 into engine work. The builder told me to keep the break in oil in it for 500 miles (the oil came with a COMP cam kit), and I've had it back for almost 2 weeks and I'm right at the 500 mile mark. He didn't give me any other break in tips, just drive it. I've driven it pretty easy for the most part. Varying RPM ranges while driving (no highway cruising for more than a few minutes), and I haven't pushed it past about 3200 RPMs. I have gone WOT for a few seconds at a time, and I got the feeling the builder had pushed it some too while test driving it by the comments he made about the power. Going by the dipstick, it looks as if the engine is about a quart low on oil. Is this normal for an engine breaking in?

I haven't noticed any oil smoke. When it's cold, maybe the first 4-5 minutes before it gets to full operating temp, and I get on the gas more than about a 1/3 off a stop it seems to throw out a little black smoke, but I figure that's probably unburned fuel because the engine is cold. That goes away after it's warmed up well.

I'm going to be changing the oil tomorrow morning. I'll be running conventional 10w-30 (break in oil is also 10w-30) for the first oil change, then going to synthetic after that. This is by direction of the builder.

How long should it take to "break-in"? Are the rings still in the process of seating?

I'm planning on talking to the builder tomorrow, but I would like to hear some other opinions also. It may also help to be more informed (from you all) before I talk to him so I know the right questions to possibly ask. I'll report back what he says too.

Any answers or advice are appreciated! Thanks in advance!

Last edited by BigBlockFord; 11-06-2013 at 10:15 PM.
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Old 11-07-2013, 08:19 AM
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Come on guys. Over 50 views and no replies?
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Old 11-07-2013, 08:32 AM
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When you change the oil, make sure it has zinc in it. Oil with zinc isn't all that easy to find these days,
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Old 11-07-2013, 08:33 AM
zephyrbob zephyrbob is offline
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unfortunately sometimes if there is no argument to be had you get no response. now that I responded someone will dispute it. lol.
.....anyway a hundred dollar leak down tester is in your future. a compression tester does not show where the problem is.
.....if you have a ring seating problem it would be improper hone grit for the ring material selected. rings should seat almost on start up. no amount of break in is gonna change that now. but first you need to run the leak down test to locate the problem....jmho bob
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Old 11-07-2013, 08:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zephyrbob View Post
unfortunately sometimes if there is no argument to be had you get no response. now that I responded someone will dispute it. lol.
.....anyway a hundred dollar leak down tester is in your future. a compression tester does not show where the problem is.
.....if you have a ring seating problem it would be improper hone grit for the ring material selected. rings should seat almost on start up. no amount of break in is gonna change that now. but first you need to run the leak down test to locate the problem....jmho bob
Thanks for the response. I'm not sure that it's a ring seating issue. It's my understanding that this is the same oil that they put in it as soon as it was together. Would an amount of this oil have been burned on when it was first run before the rings seated? I didn't check the oil level when I picked it up.
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Old 11-07-2013, 08:41 AM
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Quote:
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When you change the oil, make sure it has zinc in it. Oil with zinc isn't all that easy to find these days,
The builder didn't tell me anything about that. Even the new parts need the added zinc? I'll just add a bottle of zinc additive if needed.
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Old 11-07-2013, 08:41 AM
stuarta stuarta is online now
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Was the oil full to start with?

Engines do burn a bit until everything gets settled.

If chrome rings were used it takes awhile for them to get happy.


Change the oil and keep an eye on it.
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Old 11-07-2013, 08:43 AM
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I was back out at it this morning, and the dipstick is REALLY hard to get back in all the way after they got the engine back in and the dipstick tube threaded back into the pan. It may be that it's not reading 100% correctly. I'll measure the amount of oil that comes out of the pan and see what's what.
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Old 11-07-2013, 08:46 AM
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Question OIL

Had you checked the oil level when you first received you truck back fro the rebuilder & been monitoring it since then ?? Or did you just check it & see it was down on the dipstick after 500 miles ???
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Old 11-07-2013, 08:49 AM
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Quote:
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Had you checked the oil level when you first received you truck back fro the rebuilder & been monitoring it since then ?? Or did you just check it & see it was down on the dipstick after 500 miles ???
I hadn't checked it until just now. So I'm not 100% sure. I'm going to keep check on this oil change.
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Old 11-07-2013, 08:52 AM
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Just chatted with the builder, and he said that I DO need zinc additive. He also says that oil consumption for a new (rebuilt) engine is normal and that everything should start to settle down and get comfortable around 1000-1200 miles. I'm getting ready to change the oil and use zinc additive. I'll get back to you on how the oil coming out measures up to see how many quarts it is.
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Old 11-07-2013, 08:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D Pope View Post
When you change the oil, make sure it has zinc in it. Oil with zinc isn't all that easy to find these days,
Any recommended zinc additives? Is the little blue bottle of STP additive any good? I'm going to make a trip out in a few minutes to get whatever additive I need.
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Old 11-07-2013, 09:11 AM
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I use Lucas break in additive in all the flat tappet engines I work on. Mostly because its the easiest for me to get. Napa carries it.
As far as a qt of oil in the first 500, I wouldnt worry about it abit. Now just to make you feel a little better my new rebuild has gone through 6 in the first 1000 or so miles. Im pretty sure the intake is leaking on the bottom side and drawing oil out of the crankcase, but I havnt gotten around to taking it off yet.
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Old 11-07-2013, 09:13 AM
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Some of these big motors just take a bit to settle in . I found the wider rings take longer than thin ones .
Make sure to get the right oil , that is important , the additive just helps that bit extra .
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Old 11-07-2013, 09:22 AM
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Most any ZDDP additive is good. I use Lucas Break in additive, but there's a ton of them out there. That's just what I have readily available here, plus I like the name haha. If you didn't check the oil level on the dipstick when it was first changed, you can't say for sure where the level should be on the dipstick....That is, the dipstick might not be marked correctly. When I was in high school (in the 90s), I worked in a Ford dealer doing lube jobs. Probably 5-10% of the dipsticks on cars were wrong. You'd put 5 quarts in a car you knew had a 5 quart capacity, and it'd read 1/2 quart low. If it was my car, I would have remarked the dipstick so I knew where 5 quarts came to. But with the average consumer unable to understand that, I'd have to "overfill" the engine 1/2 quart to get it to read right, so they'd be driving around with too much oil. When you change your oil this time, put in the recommended amount (I'm going to assume in your truck it's a stock capacity, so 6 quarts), then start it to let the oil fill the filter and circulate, wait a minute or two, then check the dipstick. If it's lower on the dipstick then where it "should" be, re-scribe the dipstick, and use that as your full mark.

Lucas
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