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  #31  
Old 08-31-2013, 10:45 AM
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GO AUGGIE!! lol
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  #32  
Old 08-31-2013, 11:42 AM
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I know everything I do ends up taking 10 times longer than I thought it would. Hang in there. It is coming along great! Post some more pic's when you are done working on it for the weekend.
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  #33  
Old 08-31-2013, 02:13 PM
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......And I still want to be first in line for your left over 6-71 stuff when you get it all converted . Even at 5 lbs. boost it will look BITCHIN on my boat (hee hee hee).
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  #34  
Old 09-01-2013, 02:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ag460torino View Post
So far I only test and tune. The boost will be 75-100hp max.

I run nos in my Cobra, 427FE but not much because it really isn't needed either.

All they can do is tell me no and to pull the bottle and the lines will just look pretty. But on Super Nationals weekend it's pretty much a free for all up here.

Also, because the bottom end IS still a 2bolt, something that will be remedied over the winter, and the rods are ford hi po rods with ARP bolts and mains are ARP studs...... I was thinking with the extra blower pulleys and can keep it under driven so the boost still stays at the 5-7 lb range with just a light shot at the end to see how much it actually cools it down. I have o2 sensors but I'm running 2 pyrometers to watch the temp. I prefer pyrometers over o2s when it come to heat. but the combination of the two will let me know if I'm leaning out at the end and how hot I'm running.

But it's easier to put the plate on now than after it's all set up, lol. Like I said... all they can do is say no. lol......

When it's time to actually try and race someone without looking silly going so slow.... then I will get my rule book back out and read up on what I can do. Till then it's just experimenting
The small shot of N20, 100HP or so should intercool it nicely. I had fogger jets in two plates under 750DP's, but never got a chance to try them before the motor came out. I had 1 analog pyrometer, and it was a little slow, so I tuned to be well under 1,800F, just to be safe, it was not a track car, just a cruiser. If I was really serious about Tunning a blower with Nitrious, I would have invested in a EGT guage with a recorder, like the guys use on the


Grand Nationals and such. I would not trust a O2 sensor either. Less timing and more fuel, and work your way to the middle slowly, and it should be OK.Very nice Looking Ride by the way.
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  #35  
Old 09-01-2013, 11:12 AM
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Thanks for the input. Nos is getting mounted just because it's easier to do now. Will play with it after injection is tuned. Second NOS tank is actually a fake. It will have CO2 in it and be run to a "fake" purge system with led lights just for Sh*ts and giggles..... Why waist the good stuff when putting on a little "look at me, I got nitrous" show, LOL Not that I will be using it when pulling up to stage...... but if I am plumbing right now I might as well do that too.

Plus.... if I never get this thing into the 10's for some reason........ It will look cool at local shows!!! LMAO!!!!

Will update tomorrow with some plumbing pics.......

Have a great holiday!!!!
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  #36  
Old 09-01-2013, 11:33 AM
butterbean butterbean is offline
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holy shiite dude you are making great headway, I have not herd from you in a whike but I was looking at the wrong thread, man you are almost there and we all can't wait, I need to read over all the work you have done (Iskiped over some of the pages) and I will get back with you tonight
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  #37  
Old 09-02-2013, 02:49 AM
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Ok, so it has begun...... Cutting lines, installing fittings, hoping for no leaks, lol. Mounting a test surge tank. You know.... with 4 return lines from injector hat and pump going back to surge tank, (plus the electric fuel pump feed), this should get awesome fuel mileage!!! NOT! But at least running all 4 lines to surge tank will help keep the level up for the entire trip down the track..... or so I am hoping.

I will be back at it in the morning. Just sucks that everything will be closed tomorrow so getting even nuts and bolts will be problematic!

Also, note the one pic of my blower belt. The 8-71 sits forward a good inch compared to my other. It's good enough for a start up but I had to add a third pulley to lower crank and run belt on inside/outside pulley and I just make it. I'm going to order a 6-6 1/2 inch snout so I can remove extra pulley, maybe 2, from crank and move everything back a good inch or more. I just don't like going further out creating more load on crank snout and blower bearings and I don't like running belt un centered...... Look at the pick and see for yourselves.

Thanks for the pushing words of encouragement. Would like to hear it fire before Friday. Maybe not race.... but at least start tuning the injection!!

I could swear I JUST cleaned that floor off this morning!!!! hahaha


Last edited by ag460torino; 09-04-2013 at 09:22 PM. Reason: pics
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  #38  
Old 09-02-2013, 11:23 AM
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Just out of curiosity, what distributor set up were you running with the 6-71?
Rob
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  #39  
Old 09-02-2013, 10:54 PM
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Had the Mallory unilite with the crab cap for low clearance. I have used unilites for years and knock on wood have always had good luck. Like I said, almost did crank trigger but I would have still had to invest money in my old one to tighten it up and put bronze gear on. Plus it had no way to lock that distributor because it was from 94 and was an older model. I got the new one in and picked up a set of Taylor 409 10.4 wires and put them on. I even asked a post about those wires to see if they were any good but didn't get much input. They look like good wires and a little longer than their 8mm counter parts that I took off.

I have some blower drive pulley questions that I need to post on the tech site. I'm trying to save from buying another snout so I turned the upper pulley around and set everything back pretty nice. I want to ask for some opinions on doing what I am doing...... In my opinion it will take some load off the crank snout, it will put the top pulley over the snout bearing which is better than hanging off the end...... But I will get some of the experts advice






Last edited by ag460torino; 09-02-2013 at 11:09 PM. Reason: pic
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  #40  
Old 09-03-2013, 11:55 PM
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Made another trip to summit for a blower spacer that costs 81.00 and spent 1,300. I hate when that happens. Picked up a lot more fuel, nitrous, purge line fittings and gauges. Still working on mounting all the solenoids and lines and fuel pump. Ran around most of today so not much change. I am going to mount a plate off right side of blower out over valve cover so I have plenty of options for mounting them and making it look good. I cut out an aluminum plate to do the job. My machine shop/milling machine consists of a drill press and air tools. I will post a pic of the plate in raw form..... but after I clean it up and do the swirls on it with the die grinder and some 3m pads it will look pretty good. I get the aluminum cheap from a local surplus supply store and it looks rough when I start. But when done it doesn't look to bad. I did my door panels and rear panels with burger buddies and it was amazing how good it came out.

I did take the advice and get the good pyrometers that can hook into a logger box but didn't get box yet.

I also picked up a timing retard control box that is supposed to aid in starting and then you turn it up. I already have the blower boost timing box in my car. I don't know if you can use both... one to start it and preset timing while in staging lanes and then rely on boost activated box after that. Or will one do the WHOLE job better than the other? I also thought about putting a switch between the two so after starting I can flip over to the blower boost box. If anyone knows more about the difference between the two and one is better than the other please enlighten me.

Poor mans fab and milling tools!!! lol



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After drilling and fitting, drilling solenoid holes, etc..... I will give it a die grinder and 2 inch swirl job that will make a world of difference!

Well tomorrow will be a busy day so I better get some sleep. Night (morning) ALL!

my 2.00 solenoid mounting plate. I will show you what it looks like fitted in place next.









Looks better than those little brackets they give ya. And more room to work with when mounting and arranging...........

Last edited by ag460torino; 09-04-2013 at 09:35 PM. Reason: pics
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  #41  
Old 09-04-2013, 09:57 PM
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When plumbing and wiring anything from ignition boxes to fuel and nos lines, it's not something that you want to be distracted from. Yet I can barely get started and someone stops in over something stupid and completely screws up my train of thought. I might as well close up shop and walk away!!!

That's what happened today while doing the mount and solenoids in the post pics above. When you are mounting 2 solenoids for nos, one for the primer on the injection system and one for purging it's not easy to keep all the wires straight and make sure a fuel or nos line doesn't get crossed. Also, it's hard enough to make sure you don't miss tightening a fuel line or pump lines........

It's just one part where I really HATE to get interrupted. Especially when I am starting to make headway.

Back at it tomorrow..........
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  #42  
Old 09-05-2013, 06:11 PM
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Most of the time I am my worst interruption. Keep chugging. Looking good.
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  #43  
Old 09-06-2013, 04:38 PM
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Not much to add for now. Got solenoid plate done and solenoids mounted but am finishing polishing valve covers to put back on since right side will be covered. Not looking forward to cutting hood out around injection linkage/solenoid plate but it's gotta be done. Still waiting on 1" spacer so I can button up blower drive and mount injection fuel pump. Need one in place before I can do other. That's what sucks. One small part can hold up so many other things.

HEY, TAKING SUGGESTIONS HERE....... I'm putting a mock up NOS surge system on it for the heck of it. Everyone around here keeps asking where the lighted blast will be coming from and to be honest, I'm not sure. It's a twin system with two blue LED lights so the fog will be blue (wanted red but will have to buy them at a later date). So I guess this question goes out to the younger crowd....... How about some suggestions as to where the 4ft sprays should exit? Fenders? Grill? Under by exhaust? Get creative and come up with something different. I am only doing it for sh*ts and giggles and had most everything anyway. Will use co2 because its cheap. But think of a 68 Torino with a 460 blown, injected and nos supplied engine sticking out of the hood and where would YOU exit the light/fog show???

I am serious. Give me your input. I have no scoop so that's out. But other than that come up with some ideas and throw them my way.

Lets make this part of the beast build up an interactive, all suggestions welcome (even if you say don't do it), and think outside the box so it's different from the rice burners, lol. Why not have some fun with this part!!!!!!

Hopefully by Monday I will have more pics and have gotten further. Till then, Have a great weekend!!!!

Last edited by ag460torino; 09-06-2013 at 09:29 PM. Reason: spelling
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  #44  
Old 09-06-2013, 04:54 PM
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Since there will be so much sticking up outside the hood I'd make it look like it was coming off the blower somewhere or off both sides of it. It would be a nice short easy run also...
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  #45  
Old 09-06-2013, 08:11 PM
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Since it's going to be C02, if you could blow it across the blower housing (without getting it into the engine) it would cool it........just thinkin' out loud lol.
Rob
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