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Old 01-28-2014, 10:36 PM
mustang1967 mustang1967 is offline
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Default Trying to put a 460 in my mustang

Hello everyone. I am new here and need some advise and help. I have a 1967 mustang coupe that currently has a locked up 351 Windsor in it. I Just recently bought a 460 and c6 trans from a 1977 F250 and I would like to put it in. I have never done an engine swap like this and really would like to know everything I have to have and need to get done. Right now I want the 460 to stay stock. I need to know stuff like will my current engine and trans mounts work? Do I need to have the drive shaft I have altered or can I use the one I got with the 460? All the help I can get would be great. I am trying to get the car on the road in no more then 2 months time. Thank you for your time and advise.
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Old 01-28-2014, 11:54 PM
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Hi and welcome to the forums!

First, what condition is your Mustang in?

Secondly, do you want headers or manifolds?

I have a near stock 460 i my 67' with a small RV cam. It moves my car with little effort so, its very fun to drive.

Either drive shaft can be reused just the length needs to be adjusted. Any local drive-line shop can do the shortening if you aren't a welder.

Now, please forgive me if i make the following sound negative or describe the swap as being too difficult to you. But, this swap can be a pain to some that expect an easy time.

I am definitely not trying dissuade you or anyone from attempting this swap. But, it can be like any swap, an expensive mess if it isn't though out first.

The shock towers can be a pain although they are spaced further apart than the older Mustangs. If your shock towers have any rust and or holes cut in them you might want to repair them before proceeding.

Which steering box do you have? The earlier 67's have the solid shaft/column and the later use the "rag joint" This makes the headers an issue in the older 67's.

In fact, the steering box in my 67 was too fat to allow my first set of (expensive) headers to clear without denting the tubes. These where part of a 460 swap kit that i bought from Ford Powertrain Applications http://www.fordpowertrain.com/FPAindex/FPA%20index1.htm My shock towers where bowed in too much for the kit to work though.

Not sure if any other header will work in the 67~68 Mustangs for the 429/460. There might be a chance that some other manufacturer's will fit not sure.

Cutting the shock towers and plating them for clearance is recommended though, not really necessary. It helps in allowing access to the spark plugs/wires and the header bolts.

The motor stands that i had in the kit, where copies of the Boss 429 stands. These used the factory Boss 429 insulators that placed the engine further forward than i anticipated. This caused several issues. One of them was that the kits headers hit the steering box and the engine was too far forward for my tastes.

The Boss 429 used the short style water pump as the engine is moved forward in the chassis by the mounts. Now the Boss 429 was in the longer 1969/70 engine bays so keep that in mind.

Personally, I ended up trashing all of the shock towers and the crappy steering box, replacing them with a 1977 Mustang II suspension. (This is not for the fainthearted nor non mechanically inclined) and i couldn't be happier with this outcome.

I went with a cross-flow radiator with three rows and some modified brackets. The cooling department should be carefully considered as these are fairly tight engine compartments. Hard to get the heat out of them.
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1967 Mustang coupe, Mustang II front suspension. W/RV camed, D3VE headed, 460/C6 (soon to be 557 CID w/ported police interceptor heads) out of the box BBC headers(with homemade steel adapters)

Shocktower removal enthusiast.

The race is not over till the Fat Block Ford Sings!

FBHO

Last edited by mp40; 01-28-2014 at 11:56 PM.
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Old 01-29-2014, 10:17 AM
mustang1967 mustang1967 is offline
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The suspension is in good shape except for the sway bar bushings are completely shot. Not sure what gear box it has. I have a buddy that is going to help me put it all in. I want headers because I want it carbureted. If I can for now I want to keep the stock headers until I can afford to get custom ones made. Not looking for performance right now just trying to get it where I can drive it. I will have to check tonight but I think it has been converted to springs in the front. I know more about modern cars and not the old ones. I started working on this as it was a last request my mom asked before she past away last year and I am wanting to finish it.
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Old 01-29-2014, 04:31 PM
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I can tell you which steering box you have if you post a picture looking down near the brake master cylinder. That angle will more than likely show enough of the steering Column for a determination.
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1967 Mustang coupe, Mustang II front suspension. W/RV camed, D3VE headed, 460/C6 (soon to be 557 CID w/ported police interceptor heads) out of the box BBC headers(with homemade steel adapters)

Shocktower removal enthusiast.

The race is not over till the Fat Block Ford Sings!

FBHO
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Old 01-29-2014, 06:20 PM
xoliex xoliex is offline
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crites restoration will have your mounts and headers!!!
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Old 01-29-2014, 06:31 PM
mustang1967 mustang1967 is offline
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I will get you a picture in the next few days. I am so glad that you have decided to help me. I have asked several people and they just laugh at me and tell me I am stupid for trying to put a 460 in. I am not afraid to have to do work. Only thing I have is a limited budget right now. Like I said just trying to get it at least in and able to run so I can start it so the engine will stay in good shape while I finish up getting the drive shaft shortened.
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Old 01-29-2014, 07:29 PM
mustang1967 mustang1967 is offline
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was also wondering do I need to get a new oil pan or will the stock one work? Also if i were to get http://www.ebay.com/itm/67-69-FORD-M...f06545&vxp=mtr would I be able keep the stock water pump and just take the fan blade off or would it be better to get a shorter water pump and keep the fan on?
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Old 01-29-2014, 10:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mustang1967 View Post
I will get you a picture in the next few days. I am so glad that you have decided to help me. I have asked several people and they just laugh at me and tell me I am stupid for trying to put a 460 in. I am not afraid to have to do work. Only thing I have is a limited budget right now. Like I said just trying to get it at least in and able to run so I can start it so the engine will stay in good shape while I finish up getting the drive shaft shortened.
Hey no problem. That's what the forums are for.

The people that think that its stupid to swap in a 460 are more than likely, not sure that they would have the talent to do it themselves.

Have you done any fabrication? If you have, there is a chance that the motor stands that you need can be fabricated or adapted. The motor mounts can be bought (for a 1971 Lincoln Continental?) from local sources.

Again, the mounts place the engine forward in the chassis. This can cause some fitting issues. Anyway, there is something else that i forgot to mention. The transmission mount for the C6 is special for the 67~70 Mustangs. It can be bought here https://www.mustangsunlimited.com/it...asp?T1=5059+01

Here http://www.cjponyparts.com/c6-transm...7-1970/p/TCU3/

Also, the C6 intended for the Lincoln usually has the longer tailshaft with the wrong V-shaped mount. That would cause issues that are to be avoided. If you can take a pic of the trans/engine that you plan to use that will help as well.
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1967 Mustang coupe, Mustang II front suspension. W/RV camed, D3VE headed, 460/C6 (soon to be 557 CID w/ported police interceptor heads) out of the box BBC headers(with homemade steel adapters)

Shocktower removal enthusiast.

The race is not over till the Fat Block Ford Sings!

FBHO
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Old 01-29-2014, 10:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mustang1967 View Post
was also wondering do I need to get a new oil pan or will the stock one work? Also if i were to get http://www.ebay.com/itm/67-69-FORD-M...f06545&vxp=mtr would I be able keep the stock water pump and just take the fan blade off or would it be better to get a shorter water pump and keep the fan on?
The stock oil pan will work. However, it might hit the swaybar.

The shown radiator will probably work. However, two things. The lower hose is on the wrong side as the 1970 and up 302~460's are on the driver's side. That, and the supplied fan will have to go on the other side of the radiator as the water pump will be too close.

If you where to get the earlier water pump like the 1968 Thunderbird/Boss 429, you would also need the brackets and the pulleys to match. The pumps and the pulleys can be hard to find sometimes so it might be a pain to find them. But, they're worth having as space in front of the 460's waterpump is at a premium.

I have modified the radiator core support on my Mustang to mount a 1971 Torino sourced cross flow radiator. This was a bit of work, but, it has a little more room to play with.

Even so, i still had to mount the fan on the front behind the grill to clear the water pump.
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1967 Mustang coupe, Mustang II front suspension. W/RV camed, D3VE headed, 460/C6 (soon to be 557 CID w/ported police interceptor heads) out of the box BBC headers(with homemade steel adapters)

Shocktower removal enthusiast.

The race is not over till the Fat Block Ford Sings!

FBHO
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Old 01-30-2014, 05:57 AM
Bigred69 Bigred69 is offline
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I just got done doing the same thing in a Fairlane. Not too much difference in the two. I say go for it. It is very rewarding to see that beast under the hood once you are done. I too am having issues with clearance to mount an electric fan. Just take your time and look at everything ,and it will fit. Also, moving your battery to the trunk is very helpful and almost needed.
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Old 01-30-2014, 07:10 AM
mustang1967 mustang1967 is offline
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No I haven't done any fabrication. I am getting both motor mounts and trans mount from the vehicle that the engine is coming from. The engine is coming out of a 1977 F250 Ranger. Not worried about the sway bar seen as like I said the bussing are shot on it right now. I can get you pictures of the engine when I get it from the guy either next week or the week after. He is pulling it out for me.
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Old 01-30-2014, 07:18 AM
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I just took my sway bar off, haven't had it on in over 30 years, works fine.
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Old 01-30-2014, 07:47 AM
mustang1967 mustang1967 is offline
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That is interesting. I was going to ask about if I could just take it off
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Old 01-30-2014, 07:59 AM
Bigred69 Bigred69 is offline
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My car originally had a 390 in it. After I. Installed my motor the sway bar bolted right back up. I have about 2" clearance in front of the oil pan.. That sway bar will affect the handling of the car. Without it,there is a big difference in cornering.
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Old 01-30-2014, 09:38 AM
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Depending on the mounts/swap kit used, the oil pan will hit. I won't say I road race mine, but with a big heavy engine, it handles well without it. My truck has a broken sway bar link on it too, I'm just too lazy to fix it, and I do drive it hard, and it still handles ok. Just don't run junk shocks...
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