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  #31  
Old 02-05-2014, 06:49 PM
mustang1967 mustang1967 is offline
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Also how will I know where I need to have the new ones welded in?
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  #32  
Old 02-05-2014, 10:12 PM
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Also how will I know where I need to have the new ones welded in?
No welding, you un bolt your old frame mounts or pads, then bolt the new ones in. The put the isulators or motor mounts on your engine and drop it in and bolt those together.

The critical piece to this conversion is the frame mounts or frame pads. That's what allows you to bolt the BBF motor mounts to the chassis. But its all bolt in stuff. Your replacing that metal bracket your motor mounts to right now.
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  #33  
Old 02-05-2014, 10:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Gydyup View Post
No welding, you un-bolt your old frame mounts or pads, then bolt the new ones in. The put the insulators or motor mounts on your engine and drop it in and bolt those together.

The critical piece to this conversion is the frame mounts or frame pads. That's what allows you to bolt the BBF motor mounts to the chassis. But its all bolt in stuff. Your replacing that metal bracket your motor mounts to right now.
Mustang67, No welding is needed. This entire 460 conversion is a bolt on deal. There are very few other things needed other than the engine etc.

There are a few areas of the swap that could be done to help access the engine etc. But not entirely needed.
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Last edited by mp40; 02-05-2014 at 10:26 PM.
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  #34  
Old 02-05-2014, 11:10 PM
mustang1967 mustang1967 is offline
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Originally Posted by Gydyup View Post
No welding, you un bolt your old frame mounts or pads, then bolt the new ones in. The put the isulators or motor mounts on your engine and drop it in and bolt those together.

The critical piece to this conversion is the frame mounts or frame pads. That's what allows you to bolt the BBF motor mounts to the chassis. But its all bolt in stuff. Your replacing that metal bracket your motor mounts to right now.
Ok that is great. How hard would it be to get the part that you don't have for the mounts and how much would you want for the part you have?
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  #35  
Old 02-05-2014, 11:12 PM
mustang1967 mustang1967 is offline
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Mustang67, No welding is needed. This entire 460 conversion is a bolt on deal. There are very few other things needed other than the engine etc.

There are a few areas of the swap that could be done to help access the engine etc. But not entirely needed.
That is good news I was really dreading having to find someone to weld it in. I figured I would do the tower mods later when I took it in for body and paint and have them just do it as well.
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  #36  
Old 02-08-2014, 08:47 AM
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Trust me, not sure what your finances are, but a Lincoln 140 mig, and bottle, and a compressor are two INVESTMENTS that will pay huge dividends in a car project.

When I got to pricing rod shops and body shops for some of the basic work I needed, the estimate for one floor pan was double the cost of a a welder and compressor and floor pan from NPD. That opens up a blank slate to what you can do with a car.

Don't be held back, those tools are like adding nitrous to and engine, its INSTANT car crafting capability.
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  #37  
Old 02-08-2014, 09:04 AM
mustang1967 mustang1967 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gydyup View Post
Trust me, not sure what your finances are, but a Lincoln 140 mig, and bottle, and a compressor are two INVESTMENTS that will pay huge dividends in a car project.

When I got to pricing rod shops and body shops for some of the basic work I needed, the estimate for one floor pan was double the cost of a a welder and compressor and floor pan from NPD. That opens up a blank slate to what you can do with a car.

Don't be held back, those tools are like adding nitrous to and engine, its INSTANT car crafting capability.
Well I already have the floor pans and I have someone that is going to put them in for me for $100. Finances are kind of tight. Do you know where I can get the remaining part for the gen 2 mounts you have and how much you want for what you have or would it be better for me to just buy a new complete set?
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  #38  
Old 02-08-2014, 11:01 PM
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Put that $100 towards your own MIG,....
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  #39  
Old 02-09-2014, 07:21 AM
mustang1967 mustang1967 is offline
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Put that $100 towards your own MIG,....
I have my own mig but I would rather when it comes to stuff like floor pans and anything else that could put my life at risk I would rather have a pro do it. I don't know how to weld yet. Now if there is other body work that doesn't involve my safety they I will do it myself
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  #40  
Old 02-09-2014, 10:21 AM
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Man, DO NOT think that way. Paying a Pro is just handing your money away. I used to thing the same, but as I progressed through the project and folks on this forum talked to me and helped me, its saved me tons. Unless you have a Pro Friend who does if for nothing. Don't pay anyone to do something you can do your self. Take that money and take a welding course. I knew how to Arc Weld from high School, and as a Salvage Diver I learned to underwater weld. None of that was really applicable to using a mig on a car. Not even the same techniques.

If you can run a glue gun, you can do this. Practice makes you better at it.

http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/body...perienced.html

Above is a link to my first real welding project, started with the floor pans, they were rough, but nothing there really life threatening. Pretty easy actually.

Best part, all my mistakes are covered by seam sealer, paint and carpet. Greaet learning project that let to the whole front aprons, shock towers, body panels, cowl, rear end tubbing and spring relocation.

Go for it.
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Grabbing gears for 38 years.
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  #41  
Old 02-09-2014, 01:24 PM
mustang1967 mustang1967 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gydyup View Post
Man, DO NOT think that way. Paying a Pro is just handing your money away. I used to thing the same, but as I progressed through the project and folks on this forum talked to me and helped me, its saved me tons. Unless you have a Pro Friend who does if for nothing. Don't pay anyone to do something you can do your self. Take that money and take a welding course. I knew how to Arc Weld from high School, and as a Salvage Diver I learned to underwater weld. None of that was really applicable to using a mig on a car. Not even the same techniques.

If you can run a glue gun, you can do this. Practice makes you better at it.

http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/body...perienced.html

Above is a link to my first real welding project, started with the floor pans, they were rough, but nothing there really life threatening. Pretty easy actually.

Best part, all my mistakes are covered by seam sealer, paint and carpet. Greaet learning project that let to the whole front aprons, shock towers, body panels, cowl, rear end tubbing and spring relocation.

Go for it.
I just don't know if I would have time to. And the place I am thinking of taking it is a high school that my sister in-law works at and it would be done my the students and teacher and help teach the kids. My welder is from harbor freight and I have never even touched it or welded ever
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  #42  
Old 02-09-2014, 02:34 PM
mustang1967 mustang1967 is offline
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I decided I will try to give it a shot. Just have no idea how to start seen as they are so bad. I have the full length pans
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  #43  
Old 02-10-2014, 11:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mustang1967 View Post
Well I already have the floor pans and I have someone that is going to put them in for me for $100. Finances are kind of tight. Do you know where I can get the remaining part for the gen 2 mounts you have and how much you want for what you have or would it be better for me to just buy a new complete set?
The whole motor mount and frame mount kit is 150 something, I paid 100 for the frame mounts. Mocked em up, and never ran em.

I ll sell you mine for 90 and you pay shipping. You can get the motor mount/insulators frm any auto parts store and avoid shipping, a lot cheaper than 50 bucks I bet. Shoot me your zip in a PM and Ill bet a quote on the shipping. Should be able to flat post office it for about 17.

On the welding, be careful who you get to weld them in. You dont weld them. ITs thousands of tacks. Easiest way is to lay the panel over what you want to replace. Screw it down, then cut out the new panel and old panel at the same time with either a Plasma, or cut off wheel. You can use a saws all on the long straight stuff. But you want to minimize the gap.

BE VERY CAREFULL OF WHERE YOU CUT, you have to cut around your frame rails, trans mount cross memeber etc. Dont go cutting them in half.

What I did was remove the lids/floor pans off and around the cross members to get a good look at thier condition. Then put my new floor pan in, roughed out the size I wanted (cut completely off from the rockers, and only replaced over to the tunnel edge and toe boards etc. Then went under the car with a small drill and punched a series of holes along the flanges of the cross members and where I didnt want to cut. Used as an outline to cut our the panels and avoid cutting through important stuff.
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Grabbing gears for 38 years.
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  #44  
Old 02-10-2014, 12:41 PM
Bigred69 Bigred69 is offline
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Also, I might add. If you plan to notch the towers, it would be a good indies to do it now before the motor goes in. A lot of welding to do right by the motor. It took me about 3 1/2 hours to do it , and it shouldn't take you my longer. And the best part is, that it won't cost more than maybe $20 for the steel. The rest is your time. You will be glad you did it now instead of later.

Last edited by Bigred69; 02-10-2014 at 12:43 PM.
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  #45  
Old 02-10-2014, 04:40 PM
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To add to the excellent information posted above^^^^^^^ I would recommend getting the engine mocked up in the chassis before replacing the floor pans. I say this to keep the project moving as the floor pans can be daunting to the first timers.

This is not to say that you can't do it, its just that they can be frustrating if things don't go the way you might imagine. Sometimes the car just sits with the floors cut out and the project scope becomes overwhelming. This is of course, how basket cases are born..
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1967 Mustang coupe, Mustang II front suspension. W/RV camed, D3VE headed, 460/C6 (soon to be 557 CID w/ported police interceptor heads) out of the box BBC headers(with homemade steel adapters)

Shocktower removal enthusiast.

The race is not over till the Fat Block Ford Sings!

FBHO
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