Desmogging the 73-86 460!!! - Page 2 - 460 Ford Forum
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post #16 of 43 (permalink) Old 08-18-2014, 09:13 AM
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X2. Simple, cheep, works.
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post #17 of 43 (permalink) Old 11-18-2014, 08:55 PM
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time to rebuild a 460 thats knocking

I have read thru this thread and would like to learn more. I have a 1973 Lincoln engine in a 1960 F100 that I use to pull a heavily loaded trailer thru the hills of northern Arkansas. Its time to rebuild it because it started knocking. I have some DOVE 429 heads. What valves are recommended?
I have the Duraspark, and the 68 timing chain set. Which headers fit this combination? Do I need a different intake manifold? What else can I do at a low cost to improve performance? thanks

one edit: when I got it, it had a Holley and paper gasket which burned thru and I found the (EGR?) was burning a hole in the paper gasket. I tapped and plugged that hole

Last edited by brewswain; 11-18-2014 at 08:58 PM.
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post #18 of 43 (permalink) Old 11-18-2014, 10:04 PM
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Cool

Quote:
Originally Posted by brewswain View Post
I have read thru this thread and would like to learn more. I have a 1973 Lincoln engine in a 1960 F100 that I use to pull a heavily loaded trailer thru the hills of northern Arkansas. Its time to rebuild it because it started knocking. I have some DOVE 429 heads. What valves are recommended?
I have the Duraspark, and the 68 timing chain set. Which headers fit this combination? Do I need a different intake manifold? What else can I do at a low cost to improve performance? thanks

one edit: when I got it, it had a Holley and paper gasket which burned thru and I found the (EGR?) was burning a hole in the paper gasket. I tapped and plugged that hole
You will do best to post this in the tech section.



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post #19 of 43 (permalink) Old 11-21-2014, 07:55 PM
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What If I Want Gas Mileage too?

Here are my goals (engine will run on pump "regular" gas and not be used for racing and not be driven when it is colder than 45 degrees farenheit outside, and my car is a 1978 Lincoln Mark V):

1. increase power above stock ONLY if it can be done without decreasing stock gas mileage and without making engine more unreliable or rough running or rough idling or harder to start or hesitating on acceleration or costing huge $.

2. increase gas mileage but only if it can be done without losing significant power or making engine more unreliable or rough running or rough idling or hard to start or hesitating on acceleration or costing huge $.

3. make engine more reliable but only if it can be done without decreasing gas mileage or power or making engine run rough or idle rough or harder to start or hesitating on acceleration or costing huge $.

I currently have my 460 out of the car on an engine stand and time to work on it and when I'm done I will probably leave the engine in the car for the next 30 years and drive maybe around 50,000 miles. So, now is the time for me to do whatever it is that I should do to the engine, if anything, to improve power, mileage, or reliability in line with the above 3 goals.

With all that said, I have these questions:

1. Should I still use a timing gear/chain set from a 69-71 on my 78 Lincoln 460?

2. Should I recurve the stock distributor or use a non-stock distributor (and recurve it?)?

3. Should I use a non-stock cam?

4. Should I change the stock carburetor and if so to what model and manufacturer?

I'm asking these questions because the fact I am not interested in racing might possibly mean I should do different things than the recommendations already made in this thread.

Thank you an awful lot!!!!

Last edited by audioresearch; 11-22-2014 at 07:34 PM.
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post #20 of 43 (permalink) Old 01-27-2015, 09:00 PM
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83 Ford E350 Brougham RV

I'm starting to freak out about taking out the EGR and emissions crap. Some say don't do it others wish they could.

Here is everything I'm doing:
Ford 460 with RV cam. 110-120 Psi. compression at 5000' cold.
Holley 0-80783 Model 4150 (Modified with 2 stage power valve, jetted for 5000'-9000')
Edelbrock Performer Intake Manifold (non egr)
MSD Ready to run Distributor
MSD A6 Ignition control
MSD 8680 Timing control (Manual Knob to change timing on the fly)
MSD Blaster SS Coil
Headman Headers
Flowmaster Delta 50 2 x2.5" in 1 x 3.00" out.
Stock Autolite Copper plugs.

I am trusting Bob at Competition Carburation. He agrees that changing 4000' elevation is a challenge for a carb. engine. He said, get some pinging? Turn the knob. Going up 1000' Turn the knob. Going up hill, Turn the knob. I hope I remember to turn it back.

As far as the EGR thing, thoughts about High combustion temps, NOx emissions, Backfiring and popping holes in pistons are the parts I'm concerned about. I just want a simple, reliable coach I can work on.

Last edited by kdullea; 01-28-2015 at 08:58 AM.
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post #21 of 43 (permalink) Old 01-27-2015, 09:31 PM
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Here are the pics. My question is how much of the emmisions do I need to keep?
I have the two gas tank vent lines coming from the charcoal cans. What should I do with those?
Attached Images
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post #22 of 43 (permalink) Old 01-28-2015, 08:47 AM
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The air pump, EGR and charcoal canisters were removed from my '78 Continental Coupe 460. No issues with belts because the pump has a dedicated one that can be eliminated. I was concerned about vacuum plumbing but no big issues there either. Lines for the three vacuum reservoirs, HVAC, parking brake release and headlight doors were not affected. New lines were run for the distributor and cruise control. Original parts were all saved so it all can be put back to original if necessary or desired.

Removing the canisters isn't done for performance but mainly for simplification. The replacement carb doesn't have bowl venting and the plumbing and devices for purging the canisters were also eliminated. The vent line from the fuel tank to the canisters was capped and a small hole poked in the rubber check valve in the gas cap to provide a vent. As expected, a hint of fuel smell is detectable by the filler door but its never bothersome. Probably also around the carb since the fuel bowls are no longer plumbed to the canisters.
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post #23 of 43 (permalink) Old 01-28-2015, 09:02 AM
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Timing chain

Thanks Jima, The motor has 96k miles. one owner and well taken care of. There is a lot of chatter about timing chains. Do I need/should to do that too?
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post #24 of 43 (permalink) Old 01-28-2015, 09:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kdullea View Post
Thanks Jima, The motor has 96k miles. one owner and well taken care of. There is a lot of chatter about timing chains. Do I need/should to do that too?

I'll defer to the experts on here but, if it were mine with 96K miles it, for sure it would get an early, straight up timing set and any leaking gaskets replaced.
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post #25 of 43 (permalink) Old 01-28-2015, 10:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jima View Post
I'll defer to the experts on here but, if it were mine with 96K miles it, for sure it would get an early, straight up timing set and any leaking gaskets replaced.
Ok, Yearwood has an edlebrock set with options for $69. Is that a pain to install? Will this make a performance change?

From another forum: is this correct?

Even if it's a daily driver 460, I would STRONGLY suggest, get a degree wheel, a dial indicator and stand from Harbor Freight or similar, total cost under $40. Watch a couple cam videos and you will be in business degreeing your cams.

I always degree the old cam/chain before I pull it to see what I had - at least 1 cylinder, maybe a couple.
Then degree the new setup. A good pre-72 setup should degree so that the cam is about 3 degrees "advanced". Most of the aftermarket cams come about 4 degrees advanced as they know most engines run better that way.
You should gain about 25 ftlb and 15hp by getting rid of that retard and setting the cam up the way they were meant to be, 1968-71 style. To leave it retarded is like making your 460 into a 429 or smaller.

Last edited by kdullea; 01-28-2015 at 10:29 AM.
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post #26 of 43 (permalink) Old 01-28-2015, 10:35 AM
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I think your questions are getting too far afield from the purpose of this sticky. You probably should post your questions in a thread under engine tech.

Last edited by Jima; 01-28-2015 at 11:15 AM.
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post #27 of 43 (permalink) Old 01-30-2015, 09:23 PM
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Thank you Jima!

https://picasaweb.google.com/1162053...36735326039618

The new Edelbrock Chain is in and the old one was trash! I am so relieved! I could not have not done it!

Ford 460 with RV cam. 96K miles 110-120 Psi. compression at 5000' cold.
Holley 0-80783 Model 4150 (Modified with 2 stage power valve, jetted for 5000'-9000')
Edelbrock Performer Intake Manifold (non egr)
MSD Ready to run Distributor
MSD A6 Ignition control
MSD 8680 Timing control
MSD Blaster SS Coil
Headman Headers
Flowmaster Delta 50 2 x2.5" in 1 x 3.00" out.
Stock Autolite Copper plugs.

Last edited by kdullea; 01-30-2015 at 09:26 PM.
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post #28 of 43 (permalink) Old 02-18-2015, 11:11 AM
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Change thermostat?

How about changing the thermostat from 200 to 190? Without the 8 cam retard, no need to run that hot.
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post #29 of 43 (permalink) Old 06-09-2015, 09:13 AM
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Duraspark

Hello
I was just reading this Sticky and saw the mention of the Ford
Duraspark ignition. I will not assume, but I guess you mean the
Distributor and the controller.
We've been running the Dizzy with a (gm modual) for years
as long as the car is not a smog car in Calif.
best
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post #30 of 43 (permalink) Old 08-18-2015, 07:54 AM
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The 1/4 in tap for the back of the heads is too small for anyone doing this you will need to go to a bigger size
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