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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 08-28-2017, 03:01 PM Thread Starter
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Another Overheating Question

I've just about had it with my overheating problems. To start I've got a 466 in a 56 f-100 with Eddy heads a mild cam flat top pistons and other goodies, mostly this is street driven. I have a 3 row Aluminum radiator with a 16 in. pusher electric fan in front and an 18 in. regular fan and shroud. The problem is every time I get stuck cruising in stop and go traffic my engine overheats (220*+) and it worries me because of the aluminum heads. I talked to a guy over the weekend and he told me to remove my thermostat for better water flow or drill holes in the stat. is this a good idea? I've tried Water Wetter not much luck, I run antifreeze, what can I do short of buying a new $600 radiator.? If I'm able to keep moving even if slowly I don't seem to have a problem but when I can't get air moving through the pusher it will heat up.This is my second engine with this problem and being an old truck it's hard to get air it into the grill area

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1956 Ford F100...466/C6, Edelbrock aluminum heads and Preformer intake w/750cfm carb, Comp. cam , H/S roller rockers, MSD lighter, KB flat top pistons, Currie rear end, B & M shifter, tubbed, Ididit column
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 08-28-2017, 07:00 PM
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I've just about had it with my overheating problems. To start I've got a 466 in a 56 f-100 with Eddy heads a mild cam flat top pistons and other goodies, mostly this is street driven. I have a 3 row Aluminum radiator with a 16 in. pusher electric fan in front and an 18 in. regular fan and shroud. The problem is every time I get stuck cruising in stop and go traffic my engine overheats (220*+) and it worries me because of the aluminum heads. I talked to a guy over the weekend and he told me to remove my thermostat for better water flow or drill holes in the stat. is this a good idea? I've tried Water Wetter not much luck, I run antifreeze, what can I do short of buying a new $600 radiator.? If I'm able to keep moving even if slowly I don't seem to have a problem but when I can't get air moving through the pusher it will heat up.This is my second engine with this problem and being an old truck it's hard to get air it into the grill area

Any idea's
John
ditch the pusher and the mechanical puller and put on a electric puller with shroud. get a high cfm one, at the same time get your rad flushed. if you still have over heating problems look elsewhere for your over heating issue.
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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 08-28-2017, 11:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John F. View Post
I've just about had it with my overheating problems. To start I've got a 466 in a 56 f-100 with Eddy heads a mild cam flat top pistons and other goodies, mostly this is street driven. I have a 3 row Aluminum radiator with a 16 in. pusher electric fan in front and an 18 in. regular fan and shroud. The problem is every time I get stuck cruising in stop and go traffic my engine overheats (220*+) and it worries me because of the aluminum heads. I talked to a guy over the weekend and he told me to remove my thermostat for better water flow or drill holes in the stat. is this a good idea? I've tried Water Wetter not much luck, I run antifreeze, what can I do short of buying a new $600 radiator.? If I'm able to keep moving even if slowly I don't seem to have a problem but when I can't get air moving through the pusher it will heat up.This is my second engine with this problem and being an old truck it's hard to get air it into the grill area

Any idea's
John
There are many things (and sometime a combination of things) that can lead to overheating. You'll probably have to explore most or all of them for a resolution.
Be sure there is no combustion gas getting into the cooling system.
If you're running ported vacuum advance, try full manifold vacuum. Also be sure that the initial timing setting is correct.
Be sure your thermostat is opening completely at the correct temperature. The best approach is to gradually heat it in a pot of water with a known good thermometer and observe its action. "New" doesn't always mean "good". A lower temperature rated thermostat probably will provide a bit more time during idle periods before the engine gets to the 220+ range. You could experiment by removing the thermostat to observe the effect. Some have had improvement by blocking the bypass. You could use an infrared temperature "gun" to check for temperature variations in the engine and radiator to find hot or cool spots.
If you haven't explored all these, please do so, and let us know what you found. Best wishes.
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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 08-29-2017, 12:39 PM
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I believe a little more info is needed to completely help. Whats the dimensions of the radiator? What degree is your thermostat? What are the cfm of the fan? The antifreeze look brown? Stock water pump?

I would first check pressure, make sure there are no leaks. Don't get rid of the thermostat. Then you will just have an open loop. However as suggested you can try it and see if it helps.

Removing the pusher (front) would help with high way temp as sometimes it can inhibit highway airflow through the grill, but for stop and go traffic it may not be bad.

I am not a huge fan of regular fans. I would try putting the electric fan on the engine side and trying that instead of in front and using the regular fan. Pullers usually allow better cooling than pushers. Maybe 20% better. Its a simple swap and i think it would be worth the time doing. But i would say get an electric puller.

Last edited by 66Custom500; 08-29-2017 at 12:42 PM.
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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 08-29-2017, 10:53 PM
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what t stat you running? What rating on your rad cap? I have a 466 foxbody that barely hits 200 if its 95 outside. (Stop go traffic)
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