Fired my 545 for first time - 460 Ford Forum
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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-30-2018, 07:41 AM Thread Starter
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Fired my 545 for first time

Well, I fired my baby up yesterday and it went ok. I am super stoked to say I had everything in order, it fired right up after the fitech got properly primed and idle screw setup. This thing isn’t your granny’s car for sure. Little surprised how rough the idle is and it is pig rich but has good throttle response....lightning fast in fact. It sounds kinda like a dragster, I didn’t think my cam was big enough to have that effect.....I am new to this kinda thing though.

The temp rides up according to the fitech controller, I hit 262 water temp. That’s with a single puller and in a shop not moving. I do have a nice dual fan setup coming that I hope cures this.

I can’t drive the truck yet to see if the efi will learn enough to not run so rich at idle....it’s so rich it hurts your eyes after about 5-10 minutes with shop opened up....puffs a little black smoke when you romp on it. It does idle fairly even, bout 150 rpm fluctuation, I figure that’s just the nature of this beast. Also I think maybe I got my o2 sensor to close to the rear cylinder so I’ll move that back some and see if that’s not causing the computer to get a false afr and dumping more fuel than it should at idle. I changed my target afr to 16 and it didn’t change the rich state....kinda making me think my o2 sensor needs moved, fingers crossed but I won’t know until the truck is finished as I’m about to tear it back apart for paint and body then final finishing.

Ideas on the richness are welcome.

P.s.

Fitech support is not much help...I only talked to one guy though. I gave up and researched my way.
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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-30-2018, 11:48 AM
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Well, I fired my baby up yesterday and it went ok. I am super stoked to say I had everything in order, it fired right up after the fitech got properly primed and idle screw setup. This thing isnít your grannyís car for sure. Little surprised how rough the idle is and it is pig rich but has good throttle response....lightning fast in fact. It sounds kinda like a dragster, I didnít think my cam was big enough to have that effect.....I am new to this kinda thing though.

The temp rides up according to the fitech controller, I hit 262 water temp. Thatís with a single puller and in a shop not moving. I do have a nice dual fan setup coming that I hope cures this.

I canít drive the truck yet to see if the efi will learn enough to not run so rich at idle....itís so rich it hurts your eyes after about 5-10 minutes with shop opened up....puffs a little black smoke when you romp on it. It does idle fairly even, bout 150 rpm fluctuation, I figure thatís just the nature of this beast. Also I think maybe I got my o2 sensor to close to the rear cylinder so Iíll move that back some and see if thatís not causing the computer to get a false afr and dumping more fuel than it should at idle. I changed my target afr to 16 and it didnít change the rich state....kinda making me think my o2 sensor needs moved, fingers crossed but I wonít know until the truck is finished as Iím about to tear it back apart for paint and body then final finishing.

Ideas on the richness are welcome.

P.s.

Fitech support is not much help...I only talked to one guy though. I gave up and researched my way.
You really need someone experienced with the Fitech. If there is no feedback from the o2, my understanding is it goes default rich. #2 . I got 3 different answers on o2 placement. 30" from flange, 40" from flange, and then the bung should be welded in the collector. Someone who has set up more than one of these should put you on the right track. It also should be noted that what is correct for a carb may not be correct for the TBI. Just my .02.
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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-30-2018, 02:03 PM Thread Starter
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I fiddled with it after work just a bit ago. I went the other way with the afr down to 13.50 and what a difference also went from 12 degrees initial to 14 degrees, that helped some. I researched after yesterday’s running about the o2 and mine is just in the area they said was good and now after an improvement with the changes I believe the bung is in correct place.

Btw, the fitech tech told me to go up on the ratio by making the number larger, so why after going down on the number is it appearing to be leaner? I know, I am so green that I do not know afr ratios and what they should be. Gotta learn somehow sometime though.

When I got a minute I’ll google afr information so to understand it more. After the truck is finished. Right now I’m learning wiring and body work(body filler and finishing),trying to do good job on it. Extensive metal work on this truck so it’s gonna be a tough one.....to expensive to have a shop do it.
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Last edited by Fordman1971; 05-30-2018 at 02:12 PM.
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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-31-2018, 09:50 AM
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I fiddled with it after work just a bit ago. I went the other way with the afr down to 13.50 and what a difference also went from 12 degrees initial to 14 degrees, that helped some. I researched after yesterdayís running about the o2 and mine is just in the area they said was good and now after an improvement with the changes I believe the bung is in correct place.

Btw, the fitech tech told me to go up on the ratio by making the number larger, so why after going down on the number is it appearing to be leaner? I know, I am so green that I do not know afr ratios and what they should be. Gotta learn somehow sometime though.

When I got a minute Iíll google afr information so to understand it more. After the truck is finished. Right now Iím learning wiring and body work(body filler and finishing),trying to do good job on it. Extensive metal work on this truck so itís gonna be a tough one.....to expensive to have a shop do it.
So glad you are finding the right direction. Most of my knowledge is from trial and error and experience. Their are some good ones on these Ford boards, but a lot of people think they have the definitive answers, when every combination is different. Even environment plays a huge difference i.e. some one in Colorado at 6000' telling you how to jet a Holley when you are at 500'. Just an example.
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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-31-2018, 10:21 AM
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Post pics or it didn't happen........lol.................Nice work man!!

IMO....................dyno is the best investment you should make.

Cheers, Bob
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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-31-2018, 12:56 PM Thread Starter
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I need to update my build thread....I hadnít got any footage of the engine, I better do that before I tear the truck back down. It takes so much time to get the pics uploaded to the bucket and put on here, I just donít take the time. Iíll try.
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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-31-2018, 01:39 PM
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I need to update my build thread....I hadnít got any footage of the engine, I better do that before I tear the truck back down. It takes so much time to get the pics uploaded to the bucket and put on here, I just donít take the time. Iíll try.
I've been using "Image Host" seems to work good for me, fast and easy. FWIW, I was in the collision business and restored cars for over 45 years. If you are doing any sheet metal welding, patching etc. Get a good name brand welder and use gas. Flux-core is okay in some instances, but for sheet metal, true MIG with an Argon/co2 mix is a lot cleaner. Find a good brand .023 or .024 gauge wire and you will have less wire build up and less heat metal warping. You will need to adjust your heat and wire feed accordingly. .024 is also good for MIG headers if you don't have a TIG welder. For steel and frames and such still use .030 or .035. Just my .02

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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-01-2018, 05:18 AM Thread Starter
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Iíve got a build thread. Iíll post you a link after I update it. The sheet metal work is kinda my fortiet....itís the finishing that has me concerned and also I just plain hate the slow pace of it also. This truck had to have every typical rust repair and then some donít to it, plus the custom things. So glad to be basically done with fab and repair. Iíll have to ask you some questions about paint and body Iím sure.
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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-01-2018, 01:29 PM
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Iíve got a build thread. Iíll post you a link after I update it. The sheet metal work is kinda my fortiet....itís the finishing that has me concerned and also I just plain hate the slow pace of it also. This truck had to have every typical rust repair and then some donít to it, plus the custom things. So glad to be basically done with fab and repair. Iíll have to ask you some questions about paint and body Iím sure.

I haven't painted anything significant other than my tractor for about 6 years. Paint, clear coats, hardeners, and Techniques are kinda like computers. Something better comes along seems like annually. If I can't help you, I know guys that do this every day. I cut Facebook from my anxiety list, but there are some guys over there on the Ford BB pages and other Ford pages that are up to speed on finishes. The new clear coats are something that has really changed that lay out like glass, no orange peel, straight out of the gun. Beautiful paintwork going on over there. I just can't take Facebook anymore.
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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-05-2018, 07:57 AM Thread Starter
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Photobucket doesnít support video anymore I guess, my apologies.

Here is link to my build. I updated it but it leaves some to be desired, I just donít take enough pics. Always trying to move fast so i forget, but it is an overview of sorts anyways.

https://www.460ford.com/forum/45-car-...5ci-build.html
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post #11 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-05-2018, 08:47 AM
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Photobucket doesnít support video anymore I guess, my apologies.

Here is link to my build. I updated it but it leaves some to be desired, I just donít take enough pics. Always trying to move fast so i forget, but it is an overview of sorts anyways.

https://www.460ford.com/forum/45-car-...5ci-build.html
I posted over at your build up. More work than we could ever dream of, isn't it? kudo's for hang'n in there. Good job!
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post #12 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-05-2018, 08:55 AM
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262! Water temp! 230 is ignition off time bro! Don't hurt that thing tuning it in. If you only have electric fans you are in trouble already! You need a shroud and mechanical clutch fan. No way you will cool that many cubes on the street! Happy tuning this is the fun part! Just don't burn it down in the process!

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post #13 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-05-2018, 11:35 AM
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HOT....

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262! Water temp! 230 is ignition off time bro! Don't hurt that thing tuning it in. If you only have electric fans you are in trouble already! You need a shroud and mechanical clutch fan. No way you will cool that many cubes on the street! Happy tuning this is the fun part! Just don't burn it down in the process!

...... I thought I was the only one who noticed.........
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post #14 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-05-2018, 04:53 PM Thread Starter
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the calibration is off on the fitech controller and that is all I had to go off of. With engine cold(not ran for 24 hours) the controller says 140 degrees. I figure it is at least 50 degrees off....while Iím new to engine building I am not new to working on and being around them. It never got to hot. I was just seeing if anyone would say anything about it. If it topped at 210 degrees setting in my shop, mid day 98 heat index with one fan, running for 15+ minute runs then Iíd say it is very streetable with a high output dual fan setup Ive already got installed on rad and in storage waiting for final assembly.

I do appreciate your concerns and comments and was wondering if anyone was gonna ask about that, good catch.
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post #15 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-05-2018, 09:19 PM
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The sensors that come with the Fitech units are notorious for being way off. Don't remember the part number, but if you Google it, there is a parts store replacement that is more accurate. When I was messing with a fitech, I ended up running their sensor for the ecu, and my original gauge and sensor so I had a real temp reading. Made it easier that it was still in when I bagged the Fitech and went back to a carb. Build looks good. Like the tires and stance of the truck. Good luck.
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