460 Overheating problem - 460 Ford Forum
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 08-07-2019, 06:23 PM Thread Starter
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460 Overheating problem

Hello Guys

I have a 1973 F150 ford Pickup engine was completely rebuilt bored .30 block vated ,cam bearing, and new core plugs block was power washed after vatting, Heads baked surfaced new valves and spring retainers .10 taken off head for cleanup pistons are stock flat tops, stock iron intake,carb, stock exhaust and duals, cam is a comp cam for rv use, new lifters,push rods and rockers, new timing cover, water pump, fuel pump, new fan clutch 6 blade fan , new HD rad and new fan shroud , rad cap and coolant recovery system.

Engine is started cold on fast idle as soon as the choke will allow slow down engine idles at 750 rpm automatic trans, ps,ac, new thermostat 190 degrees, timing set without vac advance at 6 degrees, when connected and engine reved timing goes to full advance at about 3000 rpm of 28 degrees, engine starts easy no pinging or back firing, after 10 to 15 min of idling temp heads for hot and at 20 min gauge is almost pegged no running after starts really climbing, no cyl missing, no spark knock no other noises, ,no water in oil, no water out exhaust, and no hydro carbons in rad,

WE just replaced thermostat with another 190 still same problem over heating.. We are beginning to think head gasket might be installed upside down restricting coolant flow but no enough experience with 460 to know if it matters we used fel pro gaskets.

Any help would be gret we are running out of ideas before pulling motor and pulling it down, could timing cover be a problem? also new rad cap

Thanks for any help
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 08-08-2019, 01:37 AM
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It make a lot of difference if the head gaskets are installed wrong. I think there is a tab on one end that sticks out you can see that will let you know but someone else will have to tell you to be sure on that. I had a problem just like that and it ended up being one of the pistons was too tight and took a bearing out in short order. machine shops can make mistakes quite easily. Did everything myself this last time and it seems ok now. Hope yours is something simple..
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 08-08-2019, 06:46 AM
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Doesn't seem like it has enough timing. More initial timing will lower combustion temps. More total timing will increase performance and fuel mileage.

I would add 6-8 degrees of initial which will bring your total timing to 34-36 degrees which is typically the sweet spot.

Have you looked at the pulley ratios? You might be under driving the water pump and fan.

1973 Mustang Convertible
460 D0VE-C Heads w/CJ size valves, Lunati voodoo 227/233 cam, Edelbrock performer rpm manifold, FPA headers, Holley 950 HP carb, C6 w/2500 stall converter, 3.50 trac lock
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 08-08-2019, 07:37 AM
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Did you install the plate behind the water pump??? X2 on the head gaskets being installed backwards too. Good luck!
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 08-08-2019, 01:36 PM
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Make sure you have a WP backing plate.

The pic below shows the felpro blue head gasket.

The rectangular kick out goes toward the front. The round bump toward the back.

You can see them when the head is bolted down.

Gasket as shown is proper for drivers side. You would flip it over for install on passenger side.

Use a high flow 180*f thermostat like the Mr. Gasket 4364.

used 2b RHP

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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 08-10-2019, 01:10 PM
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DUDE I FEEL YOUR PAIN......... I have seen several and have heard of several 289 351c 429 460 545 engines with this problem or a variant of it I my case I was doing exactly what yours is doing i have been a master tech for 40 years and listened to my elders and learned but i never have found the answer to this problem i tore my engine down checked my head gasket's i tore the front down i boroscope the block i scoped the pump i scoped the heads now my motor is fresh maybe 10 hrs on it i spoke with allen at badasscars.com in depth also my block is a 545 871 blown dual throttle body fuel injected it has a 35gpm water pump afr is set at 12:5! rich i used a 170 180 190 stats i used a gold and blue restrictor i used a northern a be cool and now a huge frostbite radiator i used the Taurus 16" fan i used two 12" 2500 cfm each fans now i have two perma cools 3500 each with a aluminum shroud i am using a 6al box with a 3 step retard my dizzy is billit small cap locked at 36 degrees part of my problem was and i just overlooked it i am running a don Hampton supercharger i was running it at 12 psi i backed it down to 7 and the intake is a scj port my aluminum heads are thunder jet so my intake gaskets was wrong i installed a set of fel pro 1231 now i do not over heat at idle i stay around 210 at idle no fan blowing on the car and in a hot *** garage cool right noooooo after about 4 miles i get to 230/235 and half to stop shut it down and run the fans and electric pump get it cooled back down i did put a pusher on it but it seemed to hurt more than help i would really love to know what is the answer to this question that has averted a answer throughout the galaxie of space and time i am at a loss my self i have 15k of top shelf stuff in this build and it is really killing to i am ready to set a small block cheby next to it and see if i can scare it straight
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