New to the forum. I've owned my 86 250 for 3 years. Previous owner, a racer, built the 460 engine with a moderate performance cam & put a timing gear set in it. The idler gear arms that hold them against the cam & crankshaft gears broke. Broke a chunk out of the cover too. Long story short, can I go back to the chain? The cam & crank gears I compared them to at the parts store to the gear set are noticably smaller. Is the another solution you can suggest?
Thanks for the quick response. But I'm not familiar with the "double roller". Is that a type of chain? And does it need the same number of teeth as the gear set cam & crank shaft?
HI, yes what Mad said.. its one chain that looks like two chains connected together. Just get a multi or 0* set and set the timing to 0* on the crank.
good luck
tim
Lets keep it simple: Ask for a timing chain set for a 68-71 429. That is the easiest way to make sure you get a "straight up" timing chain set. If you get one for a '72 and later 460, the cam timing will be retarded. As was stated, the number of teeth doesn't matter, just that the cam gear has twice as many as the crank gear. This will not be anything you need to concern yourself with when you buy your timing set, as every 4 stroke engine works on this principle and the gears and chains are matched as such. Last I checked you can still get a new timing cover straight from Ford, but places like Summit Racing and Jegs sell them as well.
Just recently installed the straight timing set in my 86 RV, I ordered 2 sets through my local NAPA dealer, one for a 1969 429 and the other one for a 1995 FI 460. Both sets were straight up. Decided to installed the one for the 1995 FI 460 since it was a double roller and seemed to be of high quality.
Just installed the cam & crank gears on the new double roller chain set. Two things I need help with. 1. The dot on the crank gear is half a tooth to the left of the keyway. Do I align the dots or the key with the dot on the cam gear? 2. The crank gear does not align with the cam gear. It seems the cam gear needs a spacer behind it like the old gear I took off had. It looks like it needs to be the thickness of one row. The problem trying to use the old one is that it doesn't fit snug on the collar. Do I have the wrong parts you think? I'm not sure what year the engine is.
It has been my experience that when using an early timing set on a later
model vehicle with the smog cam that the low end response is improved
but the high end HP suffers as the power band is moved down some 500
RPM. The specs on the smogger cam were changed to accomodate the
retarded timing set. Always use the early timing set when changing cams
Hay.. What is the gear looking thing against the block behind the cam gear? I think the crank gear floats a little (in or out to line up the the cam gear)? just at first turn or to help aline . Cam gear would be dot out and cam pin in the hole.
good luck
tim
I believe those marks are from the previous gear set that came apart. That crank gear I put on is tight & cannot float. I know those marks look like another row of gear sprocket.
Take the crank gear off and post a clean, close up photo of that 'extra set' of gear teeth on the crank please.
I think it needs to be removed.... the crank snout should be completely turned / machined, including the front face of the #1 main journal. Like this...
Hi shouldn't that part be all the way in the block and not sticking out? is the crank all the way in?? are the pistons on the crank and in the block??
good luck
tim
HI thrust and end play.. the crank should be able to move in and out a little , as chewed up as that is I'm not surprised its not fitting .. it might not have any thrust and stuck in an outward thrust and why the gears don't line up..
good luck
tim
HI again. you know I've never seen one grind in the actual gear teeth, its usually a gauling of the part.. are you sure a part of the old gear did not weld its self to the crank?? can happen. saw some wheel barrens do that to an axle hub.
good luck
tim
Gear drive timing sets have a crank gear, cam gear, and two idler gears, the idlers made those marks on the end of the crank as the set was coming apart, their is no gear stuck on the end of the crank, as already mentioned I'd be taking the engine apart to assess the damage beyond what is seen including pulling the crank to see if the bearings survived....
Dan
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