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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-22-2006, 09:08 AM Thread Starter
 
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Shop building questions

I'm getting close to building a shop out back and I have a couple questions. First is I have been talking with a company who builds pole buildings, nice looking structures and they claim the wooden poles last well over 50 years, I have a friend also getting quotes to build a shop who tells me a stick built building is not much more, what are the pro's/cons to these structures, durability, value, etc.
The other question is in regard to the roofing material, I have the option to use a high quality composite material (3 tab), or metal. Please share any experiences or advice you may have.

Thanks,
Scott
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-22-2006, 09:40 AM
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How big?

I just did a small shop in my backyard. 20x24 and it was pretty cheap. I bought a kit from Sutherland lumber and assembelled it myself with my Dad's help. It was a blast to get to build it with him.

I LOVE HAVING A SHOP!!!!!!

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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-22-2006, 11:22 AM
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1) The bigger, the better.
2) Concrete floor. MIN. 6 in. thick w/ double rebar where the hoist will go.
3) Lottsa insulation.
4) Heat, maybe A/C.
5) Lottsa power.
6) GOOD roof, it rains/snows up there.
7) Good drainage, so you don't get swamped.
8) BIG doors, mine are 9ft. high X 18ft. wide.
9) Paved driveway.
10) Clear span construction. No stinking posts in the way.
11) Comfortable, for when she throws you out of the house.
12) Space for refrigerator, see above.
JMHO.

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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-22-2006, 11:22 AM
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We built our (Dad and I) 40' X 60' shop back in 98-99 and it's all steel. Me personally, I prefer the all steel building but that's just me

I believe we have about $15000 in it including the concrete, gravel and electricity. Of course we didn't pay for any labor and it was pretty fun putting it together. Thank god we had a Bob Cat Skid Steer Loader to lift those heavy iron beams!

We recruited some friends to help for future shop time to change oil etc...........



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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-22-2006, 11:50 AM
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What ever size you figure you will need and NOT out grow,,,,THAN ADD 10 FEET IN BOTH DIRECTION'S, trust me you will not be sorry!!!!!!! :lol: Lot's of plugs and lights, I have at least 60feet of work bench, and still find myself with no place to work,,, lol ops:

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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-22-2006, 12:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed Kinnard
What ever size you figure you will need and NOT out grow,,,,THAN ADD 10 FEET IN BOTH DIRECTION'S, trust me you will not be sorry!!!!!!! :lol:
I hear you on that one Ed. I thought a 40 X 60 would be PLENTY of room......... WRONG. You always acquire MORE stuff :lol:



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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-22-2006, 01:58 PM
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#1...Make sure they put down a good/thick vapor barrier before they pour the slab. Mine doesn't have a barrier & the moisture comes up through the slab at times.

#2...You never have enough floor space or elec. outlets, so get all you can of each.

#3...Steel vs wood framing = steel wins in my book. Bugs can eat wood, plus you can't weld to wood to create shelves, tubing racks, overhead storage, etc, etc.

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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-22-2006, 02:30 PM
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I've had 2 pole barns so far in my life, one with a shingled roof and on with a metal roof (current one). Having a choice I would go with shingles, they don't sweat like the metal does and the wood/shingle roof help kill sound a little better.

As far as size bigger is better, like has been said already it will never be big enough !!! I have a 30x40 and a 2 car detached garage and still don't have enough room............

You will need to look at your local building codes, some areas do not allow pole type construction.
post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-22-2006, 03:27 PM
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We just did this

We just did the decision making process for my Dads new place and ended up going with WebSteel.

http://www.websteel.com/

Pole buildings are harder to make rodent proof. And, in a moist environment or an area where termites are a fact of life, you're asking for trouble. Also, if you have a loose soil area (Dads place is basically on pumice/ash based soil), you'd have to dig the poles awfully deep to get any kind of rigidity.

The websteel building is also open-truss, so the building doesn't have to be as tall to still accomodate a tall entrance door (for an RV, or what have you) and lift(s) as well. It's built on a slab/footing.

For flooring, look into fiberglass reinforced concrete. The slab can be poured thinner, rebar/mesh can be omitted, and the surface finish has more grip. Over-all stronger solution with less cost.

Anyway, that's which way we went.

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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-22-2006, 05:14 PM
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Steel is the only way to go. I got my kit from Miracle Truss. It is 36x48 with 12 ft. walls and 3 10x10 doors. Next to every 110 outlet is a 220 so I can plug my welders up anywhere in the shop. http://www.miracletruss.com/garage.html



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post #11 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-24-2006, 01:43 PM Thread Starter
 
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Thanks for the feedback, lots of good points. I'm going with the largest building I can fit in the area I have, the building will be 24Dx36Lx12H (to the eve), I need to map out the windows and doors, but thinking 10x10 doors and plenty of windows.
I had considered Web Steel, a friend has one, it's very nice but they don't build them nor do they have anyone to recommend. I have plenty of other house remodel stuff going on as well as a car to build, I really would prefer to have my shop built.
Here is a link to the pole building I've been considering (if it works), I'd have it done with T1-11 siding and a 3-tab composite roof.

http://www.allpurposestructures.com/...200%20Sq.%20Ft.
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post #12 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-24-2006, 02:28 PM
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Only problem with a bunch of windows is they give a thief a way to see what you have, plus they are another way into your shop.

If your in an area that has a history of hail storms, the steel roof is the way to go.

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post #13 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-24-2006, 04:51 PM
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i deliberately built two shops. less dough total than to build and opperate one big heated shop. minnesota, lol. one for storage and 8 months out of the year work is 26 by 38 by 10 side walls. three cars across two deep. (okay some of them are scouts) 16 by 9 door in one end, 9 by 9 other end. other building is the heated shop, 24 by 24 with 12foot high in middle for hoist. this one has a 10 wide door in middle of building. lots of room on each side. of course, aka garage door bob also helps in the scheme of things. bobn.

ps. i am a fan of wood framing, steel skin but the area you live in and what is available to you price wise should be your main consideration.
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post #14 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-24-2006, 11:06 PM
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CAUTION! If you put in a hoist like, Doug and I have, you need 14 ft. min. roof to floor.

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post #15 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-25-2006, 07:51 PM
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When I built my 30x28 I built a 2x6 wood structure. I have no experience with steel so I can't offer anything there. I wired the heck out of my building. I put 6 regular lights in the attic so you could see when u need to go up there (it is alot easier to do when building than after). On the walls I put 4 gang plugs every 5'. The left and right side of each plug box were on seperate breakers and each wall was on seperate breakers. I also had 9 - 8' flourescent lights (buy the electronic balast ones) but I am blind and can't see well in the dark. I also ran conduit from the house to the shop (I was close) for future expansion of network cables, cable etc. I ran all my speaker wires in walls as well as cable tv in the corner. I also ran plumbing for a sink and toilet. Nothing is worse than having to run in the house, wash your hands, make a big mess just to take a leak ( the wife will love it too). When I did the plumbing I put valves in the house so I could drain the lines for winter use if I didn't want to heat it. I wanted to put in-floor heating in as well but I had to cut costs some where so I went with a overhead infrared heater. They are nice and heat objects instead of the air so they are better. They also heat the shop fairly fast and are economical to operate.

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