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post #1 of 42 (permalink) Old 08-03-2006, 11:33 AM Thread Starter
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Bracket Racers Consistency - What do you do?

OK Bracket Racers. What do you do to make your car/driver more consistent.

I do the same routine each time as far as starting line procedure. I try to do the same burn out each time and then I'll roll on up to the pre-stage light. Once my victim and I are both pre-staged I'll hold the brake hard and ease the engine up to 2500 rpm's then bump into the staging lanes trying to stage as shallow as possible, in hopes that I'm staging at the same location each time. After we are both staged I watch only the bottom bulb on the .500 sportsman tree and when it flashes I have to wait a predetermined time (In my head) and then I HIT IT! IF I take off as soon as I see the yellow I will light the red. I wish I could take off as soon as I see yellow, how can I slow down the car so tha I CAN do this? I should try a pro tree and see just how fast my reaction is.

My car is now more consistent than it's ever been before but I'm still working on making the short times more consistent. Next step is to replace the coil springs up front with a coil over conversion. Then I'll be updating the rear coil over shocks with some single adjustable QA1 Proma Stars and MAYBE new rear coil over springs.

I also use a program by Common Sense Software and a Davis Instruments Weather Station to help with ET prediction and it's a GREAT tuning aid as well.

Let's here it, what do you do the same and/or different?



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post #2 of 42 (permalink) Old 08-03-2006, 12:44 PM
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Box, Smaller Dia. Front Tires, Itchy Trigger Finger, etc.......LOL
post #3 of 42 (permalink) Old 08-03-2006, 12:54 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Itchy Trigger Finger
I have Itchy feet.............

Wait, is that athletes foot? :lol: :P

Have you been scratching my feet? :roll:



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Damon Sea
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post #4 of 42 (permalink) Old 08-03-2006, 01:38 PM
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Try adjusting your front tire pressures. From what I remember less air will give you alittle slower RT. Tire sits lower giving you more tire to play with.
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post #5 of 42 (permalink) Old 08-03-2006, 01:44 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jones
Try adjusting your front tire pressures. From what I remember less air will give you alittle slower RT. Tire sits lower giving you more tire to play with.
I've heard that. My car seems to lift the front tires out of the light instead of moving forward out of the light.

One of my friends who races Top ET, Electronics, had a .001 light during the final time trial so he added .010 to his box and the first round he had a .008 light. If he had left the box alone he would have had a -.002 light :shock:



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post #6 of 42 (permalink) Old 08-03-2006, 01:54 PM
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As said earlier - lower your tire pressure. Somewhere in the wife's logbook is my RT/psi ratio for the yellow car. I want to say it was a couple 1/100's per psi

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post #7 of 42 (permalink) Old 08-03-2006, 02:01 PM
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Ya those Pro street guys are freaks! LOL

I know a guy that drives around town with the same type of button he uses in his race car. When he comes to a red light he homes in and.... "clicks it" when he see's green!

It get's on your nerves sometimes. "click", "click" every light!

Now that I am thinking about it. I think he does use the one out of his car! Wire and all! It's not mounted in his car. He just drops it in his lap.
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post #8 of 42 (permalink) Old 08-03-2006, 02:48 PM
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Damon,

You could go to a blocker for the top 2 bulbs that way you would only "see" the bottom bulb. Even if you are concentrating you still might be watching them a little. The blocker eliminates this.

A taller front tire would also stay in the beams longer and help stop the red lighting. The lower front air pressure sinks the sidewall of the tire down a little and the beams can see it longer, however this has only offered minor changes in my experiance and could lead to handling changes in some situations. Lowering the rear tire pressure does the same thing. Good Luck

Brenden

85 Mustang GT, Ice Blue, A460 headed 572, [email protected], 70 Mach 1 428 CJ, 69 Boss 9 clone, 1973 'cuda 340, 68 Barracuda SS/AH clone project, 67 GT390, 64 Cutlass, 1964 Fairlane 500 Thunderbolt clone, 78 King Cobra.
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post #9 of 42 (permalink) Old 08-03-2006, 03:01 PM Thread Starter
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Brenden,

First off I'd like to say 'Thanks' for selling me your 67 390GT Mustang at such a reasonable price :P

OK Back to reallity......

I'm one step ahead of you. When I got my new Hoosier front runners I got 26" tires and was running 25" tires.

I've tried making the blockers before but I didn't really give it a good chance. I've thought of trying that again.

I did try lower tire pressure back in April but I DID have some handling problems with the car at top end of the quarter after I let off the gas at 134mph. SO I put air BACK into the tires :shock:

Thanks guys and feel free to speak your mind, let's hear about your starting line procedures and routines .........



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post #10 of 42 (permalink) Old 08-03-2006, 05:01 PM
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I always left on the last bulb when 'it got bright' If you cant leave when you see it flash on, then try the 'brightness' of the bulb.

I ease into the 'staged' light at idle until it just comes on and then torque it up to 3000 rpms. To me this is a more reliable way to stage. It is way too easy to go deep at high RPM's when staging.

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post #11 of 42 (permalink) Old 08-03-2006, 06:22 PM
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Damon,

Hope you like the car :lol: , everybody needs one in their garage.

On my car I run a 26" front tire. I use a blocker which I love, barely bump in. Set the T-brake off a chip and go. I can and have adjusted the R/T with the front and rear tire pressure but have found that I get better results with tire height change and launch RPM changes. If your class allows a T-brake get one. They make it much easier in my opinion to just bump in. Mash the peddle and know the car will leave the same every round.

Brenden

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post #12 of 42 (permalink) Old 08-03-2006, 06:54 PM
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Damon, you said your car is picking the front tire out of the beams. Do you have a front end travel limiter set up on your car? You could loosen the front end up some to help keep the tire in the beam longer. I used to tie the front end down when I ran Super Gas to help get the tires up & out of the beams on a .4 pro tree. Also how do you stage? I stage my car as shallow as possible. If possible go in a little shallower. That may help. The larger diameter tire should help some to. I ran a 24" tire in Super Gas & run a 26" tire on my current car. Some Super class racers are running 23" tires trying to cut a light. If none of this works, hook up the trans brake, put in a delay box & go Super Pro/Top racing!! :lol:
post #13 of 42 (permalink) Old 08-04-2006, 07:59 AM Thread Starter
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Brenden/Chris,

I stage as shallow as possible, slightly bumping the car into the staging lanes until I trip the yellow. I used to look for the light to get totally bright but now they are using the LED lights and they are either on or off, no transition.

I can run a transbrake and two step in modified class.

I do have a transbrake but it's unplugged at the moment. I would need to get a quick release button to put on the steering wheel AND I would need to get a two step since I don't want to leave off the transbrake at WOT each time, too hard on the tranny.

I need to call Jacobs or MSD and see if the MSD two step will plug into my Jacobs Box.

Of course I can't watch the car since I'm driving but my friends say that it's picking up the tires. You know how when a car leaves and the front wheels/tires will rotate in the air then it's going out at an angle and then if the wheels/tires don't rotate then it's lifting them up and then out. I think mine are lifting up and out. See photo, notice the rear slick tracks are very short so when Bob snapped the picture it was right at launch.

However: how high are the lights off the ground?





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post #14 of 42 (permalink) Old 08-04-2006, 08:39 AM
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Damon in review of the picture you can see you are lifting the tires up nicely and by tying down or limiting the front travel you should be able to quicken the R/T's. You will have to be somewhat conservative with this because on some large tire backhalved cars, if the ride height if still fairly high in the back it can cause the rear tires to unload somewhat and cause porpousing. Shock/strut adjustment can take care of this if it turns out to be a problem.

On a real chassis car this is not as much of a problem due to the typically lowered ride height and weight transfer situation.

One other thing to consider is the starting line beams should be no more than 3" off of the surface. If your car pops up real hard you can go to a slower front strut to help the car leave the line a little prior to lifting them. Personally with your big rear tires this may be a good way to go. It would also give you some variance for different tracks if you went with and adjustable front strut like a Stange, QA1, etc.

Personally I would 1st try a larger 26 or 27" front tire, 2nd go to a blocker, 3rd use a travel limiter on the front or go to slower or adjustable front struts. Finally hook up the transbrake and use a chip. Like I said earlier I really like my T-brake and chip, it gives me some adjustments as well. I was apprehensive at first on trying mine but now that I'm used to it, it works very well and I have alot of confidence it will always do what it should (except when I'm stupid enough to NOT arm the switch )

I also wanted to say that I am not a expert bracket racer/chassis tuner. I just have found this stuff works in my application and with my friends cars. If someone knows differently please correct me 8) .

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post #15 of 42 (permalink) Old 08-04-2006, 08:39 AM
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Itchy Trigger Finger
I have Itchy feet.............

Wait, is that athletes foot? :lol: :P

Have you been scratching my feet? :roll:
The have cream for that !!! LOL
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