Damon in review of the picture you can see you are lifting the tires up nicely
and by tying down or limiting the front travel you should be able to quicken the R/T's. You will have to be somewhat conservative with this because on some large tire backhalved cars, if the ride height if still fairly high in the back it can cause the rear tires to unload somewhat and cause porpousing. Shock/strut adjustment can take care of this if it turns out to be a problem.
On a real chassis car this is not as much of a problem due to the typically lowered ride height and weight transfer situation.
One other thing to consider is the starting line beams should be no more than 3" off of the surface. If your car pops up real hard you can go to a slower front strut to help the car leave the line a little prior to lifting them. Personally with your big rear tires this may be a good way to go. It would also give you some variance for different tracks if you went with and adjustable front strut like a Stange, QA1, etc.
Personally I would 1st try a larger 26 or 27" front tire, 2nd go to a blocker, 3rd use a travel limiter on the front or go to slower or adjustable front struts. Finally hook up the transbrake and use a chip. Like I said earlier I really like my T-brake and chip, it gives me some adjustments as well. I was apprehensive at first on trying mine but now that I'm used to it, it works very well and I have alot of confidence it will always do what it should (except when I'm stupid enough to NOT arm the switch
I also wanted to say that I am not a expert bracket racer/chassis tuner. I just have found this stuff works in my application and with my friends cars. If someone knows differently please correct me
85 Mustang GT, Ice Blue, A460 headed 572, [email protected]
, 70 Mach 1 428 CJ, 69 Boss 9 clone, 1973 'cuda 340, 68 Barracuda SS/AH clone project, 67 GT390, 64 Cutlass, 1964 Fairlane 500 Thunderbolt clone, 78 King Cobra.