Is it a true 10.5 wide slick, or a wider 10.5 W slick? Smaller slicks can be a challenge on any car that has the kind of low end power/torque that a big motor can generate regardless of rear suspension type used. Less slick height & width reduces the size of the contact patch sitting on the track surface. And less sidewall to wind-up reduces the slicks ability to absorb the shock load. Some people hit a smaller slick real hard thinking that a harder hit ALWAYS makes for a harder hook. But that's not always the case every time, especially if a soft sidewall slick is used.
I agree with Chris, either start in the bottom (least violent) front ladder bar mounting hole, or choose a middle(ish) hole (depending on a 3, 4, 5, or 6 hole bracket). If you choose a middle ladder bar hole, a good starting point for the shocks is set them around the middle of their dampening range. Extension (rebound) half way to one click tighter than half, and compression (bump) half way to one click looser than half.
Preload settings can be a flip a coin deal depending on bar length, wheel base, amount of usable power at launch, front/rear weight bias, driver weight, etc, etc. Neutral preload is a good usable starting point because it will tell you which way the preload needs to go with the first rolling burnout & launch on the car....just be ready to use the steering wheel if neutral is a long way from what the car really needs.
There is no one "always works best every time, every car" setup because every car is different and there are many ways to get a car to hook. That's why testing can be a blast, or a pain in the A$$!
460 street '66 Ranchero.......................finished someday.
460 race '70 Maverick..........................finished someday.
All 'glass Top Sportsman '69 Mustang......ummm, check back when I win big playing the Texas Lotto, or online poker.
page. Some ancient & newer local race video.
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