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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-15-2007, 04:48 PM Thread Starter
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Weight reduction....gun drilled axles.

This is tech question, but not about engines, so I put it here.

I sold my dragster a couple of weeks ago and I'm looking at all the various options on new dragsters. I'm also taking a looking at saving weight where possible. I'm going to move from a slip joint to a suspended car. The car will be a swing arm car with a single coilover shock in the rear. I'm also going to a 240" wheelbase vs the old 225". I'm trying to eliminate as much of the ~70-80 lb weight difference as I can without getting too $$$$. ie... no carbon fiber etc.

One of the options is the axles. A set of gun drilled 40 splined axles with the flange milled to a star shape would save 7 lbs over a set of 35 spline std axles with a regular flange. This weight reduction quote is direct from Moser.

How much would this 7 lbs of rotating weight be equal to in static weight off the car elsehere? Is there a formula? Guesses?

My weight savings ideas so far.
1 good battery instead of the 2 group 24's I had. 45 lb savings. I run an alt, so I can get away with one battery.
Std rear wheels vs the non sfi single beadlocks on the old car. About 4 lbs total.
Electric shifter vs CO2, saves about 2 lbs for the electric solenoid vs the bottle, regulator, etc.

So....just round it off to a 50 lbs weight savings so far with no difference in cost.

Thanks
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-15-2007, 05:03 PM
 
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The best way to have a lightweight race car is to start looking at weight at the start. It is hard to get the weight of a car allready built down. Go for it.
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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-15-2007, 05:20 PM
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Dave,
Also look at an aluminum spool not the small ones but the larger one that will make you accelerate faster and are a lot lighter.Back cut the ring gear also.

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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-15-2007, 06:28 PM
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I think a lot of people run bigger slicks than is necessary also. I run gun drilled axles in my door car , the titanium lug nuts would have been nice , but $$$ :shock: . I fabbed my own motor plate drilled and tapped the water passages and used AN lines to a remote teel 12 volt water pump the pump is only $ 75.
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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-15-2007, 06:58 PM
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David, if you want the absolute lightest axles, MW's has their 300M axles. But they are pricey. I run the MW 40 spline superlight gundrilled axles.
post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-15-2007, 08:02 PM
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Dave,
I know you run a belt driven fuel pump,so you don't have a big electric pump to run down you battery and if you are running a big alternator you can save some weight by using one of the small ones from here. http://www.ecae.com/
That can save a few Lbs.
A small 1 inch wide shifter will help some too.
Light weight gauges also.

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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-15-2007, 08:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragsterman
Dave,
I know you run a belt driven fuel pump,so you don't have a big electric pump to run down you battery and if you are running a big alternator you can save some weight by using one of the small ones from here. http://www.ecae.com/
That can save a few Lbs.
A small 1 inch wide shifter will help some too.
Light weight gauges also.
Switch to a 16V battery & you won't need an alternator.
post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-15-2007, 08:15 PM
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But going 8 or 9 rounds and not being able to charge between rounds sure would make me mad if I can't start.
Now that's been a long time ago for me the 8+ rounds that is

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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-15-2007, 08:20 PM
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Well I can honestly say that I have made 5 passes w/o charging & the data logger showed 16.2 V every run. It was a straight line on the graph. I understand that you might can't get the charger on very long in the later rounds but early rounds aren't a problem. Try a 16V system. I promise you won't go back to a 12V system. Ask Bobby Z(Bobby 588) about 16V batteries.
post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-15-2007, 08:26 PM
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Well...uh....ask B. small about or P. Oakley about an alt. or a 16V battery....they aint got one .

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post #11 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-15-2007, 09:35 PM
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I don't either :lol: . I only run one 12 volt , now I don't have the data loggers egt and all the fancy electric gadgets.
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post #12 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-15-2007, 10:03 PM
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I vote for gun drilled axles, lightened or arumirum spool. Then send the ring and pinion to TEX Racing to have them lightened AND REM treated. It's a few bux but you won't believe your eyes when you gettum back.

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post #13 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-16-2007, 03:49 AM
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You can put on a light weight shock and spring too

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post #14 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-16-2007, 04:11 AM
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Agree with Chris, get the MW 300M gundrilled axles. MW's 300M alloy material allows the axles to be gundrilled to a larger diameter hole than their conventional alloy does. When I changed over a friend's car from MW solid 35 spline axles to their 40 spline 300M gunndrilled axles, I think the weight loss was about 5-7 lbs each axle.

If your using a glide adapter plate, there could be some weight difference between using a Dedenbear case vs a bulkier J.W. case.

Minimal gauges & wiring.

Doesn't the weight difference between a dragster with a 4-link/two shock setup vs a 4-link "swing arm"/single shock setup really become a wash in the end? Wouldn't the extra tubing welded to the bottom 4-link bars that creates the "swing arm" assembly (diagonals & X's that form the triangulated "pyramid" for the single shock mount) come close to offseting the weight of the other shock?

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post #15 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-16-2007, 07:07 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the input so far guys. Good stuff.

Replies to some of the suggestions,

I will prob go with the gun drilled axles and star flanges. Don't know if I can swing the 300m axles or lightened ring gear, but I may try.

I will run 16" wheels, but not the monster size slicks. The 16" wheels will be there for a future upgrade if needed.

I already run the ECAE ultra mini alt. weighs less than 6 lbs including bracket.

For a shifter I will use a Biondo Outlaw. Very small and light.

The gauges will all be lightweight and I will use a K&R wiring kit. The K&R is a really slick deal that uses a single computer type cable from the switch panel to a circuit board that controls everything. Saves alot of wiring and the hassles that go with it.
http://www.krperformance.com/wiringkits.cfm

I have my choice of a fabbed steel (Moser M9) rear end housing or a Strange aluminum rear end. The diff on the rears is a wash. The Strange housing is lighter, but the suspension brackets are heavier. I talked to both Moser and Strange yesterday. Both bare housings with brackets are right around 48 lbs.

I basing the weight of the new car vs old car on one I looked at last week. The car is an American.
http://www.americanracecars.net/
I spent most of a day last week at one of their dealers in N Ga. They had a 514 BBF dragster stocl block, out of the box a heads, new style intake w a carb. It was a 235" swing arm. Fabricated rear housing. Nicely equipped, but not alot of extras. Std axles, 16" rears, etc. With a 235 lb driver it weighed 1910 lbs. So, the car weighed 1675 empty. My 225" Undercover slipjoint/hardtail weighed 1600 empty. All of the 4 link cars I have looked at weighed 1680-1700 w/o driver.

Keep the comments coming.
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