700R4 no 3rd or 4th gear... - 460 Ford Forum
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-31-2007, 10:53 AM Thread Starter
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700R4 no 3rd or 4th gear...

So I'm working on the camaro which is now my friend's but once was mine. It's got a supposedly very well built 700R4. The engine is probably around 450hp, give or take a bit. It has TransGo shift kit and 2200rpm stall converter. When it first did it last night, it didn't feel like it was trying to shift into 3rd at all. That was good news to me because I figured it was either the governor or sticking valve in the valve body. I pulled the governor, sprayed it with carb cleaner. Put it back in and took it for a drive. At really light throttle, it tries to shift into 3rd but there's nothing there so it goes right back into 2nd. Is this for sure a bad 3-4 clutch pack or could it be something easy like an accumulator?
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-31-2007, 04:19 PM
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Not necessarily the 3-4 clutch itself but, it sure is something to do with applying the 3-4 clutch if it isn't.

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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-31-2007, 05:00 PM
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its prob. going to be the direct clutches burnt out of it,its very common on those trans. ive done a ton of them.
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-31-2007, 05:41 PM Thread Starter
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If it is the case that it's those clutches, how far down must I tear into it to replace them? Would it require much more than pulling the front pump and doing whatever is needed to remove the band? What would I need to do to take out the band? I haven't done much with autos other than shift kits and front pump. Of course, I'd buy a manual before attempting it but I don't know if I need to do a full rebuild or if I can do a quick-n-dirty to get in there and replace those clutches. I've replaced wet clutch packs in motorcycles and PTO clutch packs in tractors and it looks very similar to auto trans clutch packs.
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-31-2007, 07:31 PM
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yes you can replace the clutches fairly easily.
of course you have to remove the pump,also the valvebody cause the band retainer button s under it,also the lockup solenoid.
remove the intermediate band and drum and then the next drum ,which is a big alum. one which is the mult drum and hold the 3-4 clutches. you dont have to put the spring tabs back in, youll see what i mean when you get it tore down.id replace the seals in the drum too.also there is teflon rings on the shaft you should replace too.
oh and one more thing there is a checkball orifice in the case that can make those clutches burn,i toss it and just use a tiny cup plug to prevent future prob.
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 08-01-2007, 06:42 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks bunches! I'll get the manual and dig in as soon as it cools off around here and all the farm work is in order. I'm guessing that these clutch packs are best replaced with something like a 8 clutch with full thickness steels, right? I've seen clearance of .050" stated on the 'net, is that about right also? I'm also guessing that their failure is due to the fluid getting hot and breaking down. As such, I'll probably be putting in a 50/50 mix of John Deere Hy-Gard and synth trans fluid. Sound like a plan? The converter is a bit looser than my friend likes so I think that'll be a good way to tighten it up a bit at the same time.
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 08-01-2007, 06:47 PM
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check into Superior's line of shift correction kits. They are specifically targeted at fixing the shortcomings of almost any trans out there. I put them in every overhaul that leaves my shop.

http://www.superior-transmission.com...correction.htm

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