Need some tips on 460-C6 install in 84 hatch? - 460 Ford Forum
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-31-2007, 11:05 PM Thread Starter
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Need some tips on 460-C6 install in 84 hatch?

I have a 84 mustang with a QA1 mild k member ,a arms,coil overs and its getting a 460-C6 combo. the converter is a tci with studs you can unscrew. but with them in its not working do i need to get it toghether then put them in or maybe just start with one to line it up? do i need to cut or beat the hell out of the tranny tunnle at all? Or do i have to put in the motor and trans at the same time? it looks like the C6 aint gonna fit, the two top bolts have to go in first then they hit the fire wall as you go up with the trans.The motor mounts are from holcomb i bought them about 9 years ago well any input to get me on the right track would be a great help thanks.
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-01-2007, 01:38 AM
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yes

i installed both moter and trans together..Use a leveler to lower transinto tunnel...I had to beat some of the trans tunnel for c6 to fit....So i got a c4 now can pull trans leaving moter in car..I could not get top bolts out of c6 to pull it out...
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-01-2007, 02:03 PM Thread Starter
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Now that i'm at it again today i'm gonna cut two holes with a hole saw for the two top bolts and put them in from the inside the car is gutted with aluminum dash so not a problem but still will have a problem with the trans hitting the top between the two bolts and the servo cover hits so the big hammer is coming out the only other thing i could do is shim down the QA1 k member a racer on this site has done it hes got pics of it he said it works fine and more hood room i think its in the buildup section.
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-01-2007, 02:07 PM
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as well as putting tranny/motor in together, leave motor mounts off the engine, and slide them in after motor is roughly in place thru the wheelwells. they go in real easy afterwords.
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-01-2007, 02:11 PM
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trans issue

installing the trans after the fact is the very hard way.I would at least use k member spacers that should easy it up a little.I did have to rub the dr. side of the tunnel to clearance the shifter linkage.

93 coupe [email protected]
429,c6,3.08
3485-LBS

472 W/ SCJ HEADS ON MY WAY TO LOW TENS IN A STREET CAR
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-01-2007, 02:25 PM Thread Starter
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Have you had any problem with the converter studs not wanting to go into the flexplate its a tci with removable studs i never used one like that before didnt know if i got to start with one stud to line it up then install the other three then the nuts? And do they make shims for the k member or make them yourself and dropping it a little wont cause header clearence problems will it?
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-01-2007, 03:02 PM
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Do you have the right sized holes in The Flex Plate?
post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-01-2007, 10:37 PM Thread Starter
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Well got it in tonite no problem had to use the BFH tool on the trans tunnel where the servo cover and the shifter shaft were and i cut out a 14x9 hole up top where the bell housing was hitting the fire wall and made a nice sheetmetal cover i can take off from the inside ,it was( cant believe i'm saying this) the most easygoing trans i ever put in the reason is it has removable allen studs on the tci converter so their was no binding at all it went right in on the dowells and i bolted it up then stuck my hand in thur the starter hole to rotate the converter where i needed it then in went the studs and nuts it was great i never had a converter like that before its always been a bitch to drop in a motor and line it up with the trans or trans to the motor because the four studs hit the flexplate and bind untill you get it right in the four holes.I wish all converters were like that.O the reason i was having trouble with converter was i had the studs in first i guess you cant do that with this one.I cant wait 472" in 2500lb stang its gonna fly,heck i'm use to 302s for the past 12 years big blocks are a new world to me.My 76 cobra two weighs 3100lbs and does 10.85 i think i better bring a extra pair of shorts to the track ha ha ha .
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-01-2007, 11:09 PM
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dont do what i did and try and shift the thing like your 302 at 7500 plus. I forgot to set my shift points from my windsor, she didnt like it a whole lot.
These motor make power down low, and pull like a freight train. Dont be discouraged by the low rpms, its very deceiving!
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-01-2007, 11:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nuclearcobra
i cut out a 14x9 hole up top where the bell housing was hitting the fire wall and made a nice sheetmetal cover i can take off from the inside .
NHRA Rules Page 223 just above 4:12

ON All Cars requiring a roll cage, if the OEM firewall has been modified (in excess of 1 square foot for transmission removal, not including bolted in componentes) a lower windshield or dash barof 1 1/4 x .58 inch 4130 chromoly or 1 1/4 x .118 inch mild steel is mandatory connecting the foward cage supports.

Page 226 7:4 Firewall

a shorten version cuz it's too much typing.. Minimum panel thickness of .032 inch aluminum or .024 Mild Steel..

Hope that helps..

Note Dash Bar in pic below..

Laters!


post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-02-2007, 08:41 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks s-stang was going to put in the dash bar anyway for saftey it has a 10 point now just no dash bar as far as the panel thickness i didnt know that i'll make a new one. Hey feetfirst was going to shift at 6300 the cam powerband is 2500to6500 and it always pulled a little past that before it layed down so if i shift at 6300 or 6400 tops i should be fine. I hope thanks for the input guys.
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post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-02-2007, 10:47 PM Thread Starter
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Are the hooker supercomp headers #6224 a real pain or is it just me #2 cylinder tube turns into the passenger side firewall so i guess i got to cut more of this thing up. i'm starting to wonder if i should have put a 351w stroker in it i have the kaase heads for it that flow [email protected] with 210-160 valves but i keep tellin myself it will be worth it .didn't know it would be this much of a pain , i should have bought a dragster man that would be easy.
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post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-02-2007, 11:33 PM
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I cut a chunk of the firewall where the heater box would be.. I got the header behind the right rear K-member attachment point..

Sorry for the large pics guys but wanted to show firewall mod on my Stang..

Laters!




post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-02-2007, 11:45 PM
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Reply to: I didn't know it was this much of a pain!

If it was easy ya would have got a Camaro.. Lol!



Take the ride! This should keep ya going at least for awhile! :=)

Vid Link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hwzlrs1LfwE

Laters!
post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-04-2007, 09:50 AM Thread Starter
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Don't be sorry thats great thats where i need to cut it i did't see that in the small pic of the dash bar so good job. The viedo did get me going ,did you use k member spacers ? If i can do it without them that would be great cause i'm almost done i have the starter,headers,radiator, electric fan/wp drive and fuel system to finish and its not gonna be that bad cause its all wired for that and the mounts for the filter/pump are there and using aeroquip pushloc hose this time so then its off to Baltimore to get the driveshaft made and i'll be beating on it finaly yeeha, cant wait total weight with me in it is 2700lbs with 472" and i think(hope) the gears will be fine 390s with 28x9 hoosier slick.
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