thinking of getting a dragster - 460 Ford Forum
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-25-2008, 12:38 AM Thread Starter
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thinking of getting a dragster

ive been looking at some roller dragsters on racing junk, anybody got any advice on what to look for or what kind of questions to ask before i make a trip to look one ive got 3 i want to look at one in ark and two in tx and just to be clear im not talking top fuel, just low 8s for now with a mild 468. thanks
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-25-2008, 09:12 AM
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What type of car? hardtail, slipjoint or suspended?

The hardtail and slipjoint cars can work well and are lighter, but they do eventually wear out due to the chassis flexing as designed. Take every body panel off and carefully check for cracks. The uprights in front of the footbox and towards the front are prone to cracks as well as the mid motor plate tabs. Cracked uprights stay away. Motor plates tabs can be replaced, but take that into account when reaching a price. Hardtail and slipjoint cars also don't keep their value nearly as well for future resale. When they get 10 yrs old you can't give them away regardless of condition. But, that might be an advantage to you when dealing.

Suspended cars keep there resale value much better and are easier on the chassis itself as the suspension takes much of the stress. Check the 4 link bar rods ends and shock mounts. They also ride better and will stop much better. You can stand on the brakes like a door car. If you stand on the brakes hard in a hardtail it can cause the car to bounce.

I wouldn't buy anything shorter than a 225" wheelbase. 225-235-240. If it's a 225" you will like it much better if the radiator is over the transmission instead of behind the seat. It get tight between the front of the engine and a BBF. 235-240" cars it's you choice on radiator placement.

Some other thoughts:
Do they have a current chassis cert?
How is the wiring? A kit or 10 miles of red/black unlabled wire?
Chrome cage is legal on cars built before 1-1-03, but only down to 7.50 1/4 cert. Chrome cage is not legal on 03-up cars or advanced ET regardless of year built.
Are you comfortable in the car? Is the cage wide enough?

Other than that it's no different than any other car. Is it well built, look like it's been taken car of? Do you like the components such as ignition, shifter, delay box etc?

It's my personal preference, but I would not buy anything except one of the bigger name cars. That's just for the fact that if I need a part years down the road I know they will still be there. There are some great cars from some smaller builders, but I just like the bigger names. In no particular order and not all inclusive: Undercover, Mullis, Miller, American, Racetech, Racecraft, M&M
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-25-2008, 03:33 PM
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Re: thinking of getting a dragster

Quote:
Originally Posted by 30over429
ive been looking at some roller dragsters on racing junk, anybody got any advice on what to look for or what kind of questions to ask before i make a trip to look one ive got 3 i want to look at one in ark and two in tx and just to be clear im not talking top fuel, just low 8s for now with a mild 468. thanks
Joining "The Dark Side" are we ???

David covered most of the bases. IF you race at short or bumpy tracks, go woth the 4-link. You'll be glad you did.
Sit in the car with your suit on, Can you reach the controls ?? Do you need to move anything and can you move it ?
Does it come with a midplate ?? It's ALOT easier to set-up for a BBF/Glide if you have the Chevy mid-plate. Get as many of the "extra" parts as you can..Those odds and ends add up..especially the headers !!

Welcome to the DarkSide !!! :twisted: :twisted:

Mike Stevens
Member of "The Band of Brothers"
2011 American Swingarm, 615" A Head
Engine built by Oakley MotorSports...
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Thanks "Geez." RIP
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-25-2008, 04:29 PM
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NNNNNNOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

Actually if you need any help gimme a shout, we could poke my turd in it and go outrun those chevy guys with some Ford power.........

69 Grande'
P51 headed 563
3070#'s
5.15 @ 134.89
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-26-2008, 10:06 PM Thread Starter
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thanks for all the good info guys david i sent you a pm. just so you know im still keeping the bird richter69 hoping to get it back to the track before ford buick.
QtrWarrior its not a for sure deal yet but it would give me a good excuse to go to frank hawley's. this chrome moly thing must be why im seeing so many for sale cheap right now.
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-27-2008, 06:49 PM
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Watching those dragsters that Phillip Oakley had at the bash last year was quite impressive. I was also thinking that having one would allow you to put more money into the car and less into the engine for bracket racing and it would still fly. What would it run like with a simple, 6000rpm iron headed 460 and a Glide? Fast!

Phillip might be a guy to ask a few questions too because he's had both kinds of cars, hard tail and suspension.

Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic --Arthur C. Clarke

Dave McLain
McLain's Automotive
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-07-2008, 07:33 PM Thread Starter
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update: looks like ill be driving down to look and bring home this one as long as there,s no surprises. thanks for the help guys. ill be looking for some 460 stuff in a bit.
http://www.racingjunk.com/post/11549...2-YEARS-A.html
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-07-2008, 09:44 PM
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Ya better take a tape measure with yoseff. First measure a 429/460 from rear to water pump, compare to the car in question, from front of motor plate. Also, check width of top rails...to see if you'll fit.

Some people can break a cannon ball, in a sand box, with their bare hands.
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-08-2008, 06:54 AM
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Cool!

Being that it's an S&W I bet that they might be able to give you some info on it if you can get a chassis #. The VP of Sales and Marketing from S&W hangs out on:
http://drr.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/cfrm/f/4976075
Don Scholl, goes by the user Id of "Hookdaddy". He's good at helping guys out.
[email protected]

A bbf should fit it it's one of their "standard" cars and not some sort of one off special build.

Let me know if I can be of help.

David Cole
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-08-2008, 07:03 PM
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I dont want to get the dragster guys mad. But, I had one, it was a race tech. Ran it for two weekends and sold it. I hated it.
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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-08-2008, 08:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mustangracer2
Ran it for two weekends and sold it. I hated it.
Nahh. Not mad. Just curious....why did you hate it?

I love mine. I've had door cars, but i prefer the dragster.

Reasons:
1. Go fast for cheap. (cheap is a relative word here). I can run high 4.80's -low 4.90's for MUCH less than the same et in a door car. Someone might say they are boring to drive, but I don't see how you can be bored with 1.0x 60' times.
2. Lightweight. 1900 lbs w me means I can have a simple low maint, low buck engine. 557, stock block, cast crank, h-beams, flat tops
3. Easy to work on /maintain. I can remove the entire body in 5 minutes and everything is easy to get to. I can pull the trans by myself in less than 20 minutes.
4. Easy to prep between rounds. I race by myself. All between rounds and staging lane duties are up to me. It's just fuel it, check the tires and go. I've got buddies at the track and they will help if something breaks, but they are dealing with their own normal stuff.
5. The main reason. I work on call. I may or may not find myself off work on a Sat night. If I'm home, the local track is 15 minutes away and the program is bracket racing. I've got friends that runs fast heads up door cars. They have to travel every weekend. I can't do that due to my job. So, If I'm going to race it will have to be bracket racing. If I'm bracket racing, the dragster is the best tool for the job.
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post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-08-2008, 09:38 PM Thread Starter
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david thats very reasons i wanted to get one less money easer to work on. i still luv my bird hope to keep it a long time but ill never spend the kind of money i spent on this new setup again. be sides the dragster is the only way ill ever beat ritcher69 :lol:
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post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-09-2008, 03:32 AM
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One thing I might add.

I personally want a chassis with a current cert. on it.

May save on the headache later.
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post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-09-2008, 08:41 AM
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I'd look more along a 235-240" models. One thing most people over look is the coupler for the drive shaft that need to colaps ( spelling ) to remove the transmission. Most of the chevy guy's have bolts that bolt right through to the block. Now the for guy's like myself us a ATI adapter plate and the use's studs and if you have a dedenbear /ried case you will need longer one's on the lower side. any way you need the right kind if coupler so it can be removed and then when removing the trans mission you can slide it back off the studs far enough to pull out. the chevy guy's can just remove the bolts and almost lift it straight out. Better yet just get a 4 link car and be done. If you don't like it you will have a much easier time in selling it.

Ace
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post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-09-2008, 03:34 PM
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#1 reason I sold it was because it was boring.
#2 No local Quick 16 or big money races for them because spectators think they are boring....



Seriously I go to the races for the thrill of the ride. With the dragster there was no thrill..
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