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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old 06-21-2008, 07:24 PM Thread Starter
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don't let this happen to you!

Well last week a guy with a 200MPH door slammer crashed hard. His just made a run at 200MPH and hit the chutes (air shotters) so more then likely he got over 200 before he realised the chutes did not work so he jammed on the brakes with carbon brakes so they heated up and then locked-up so the car just started to bounce around and then it just started to flip distroying a new car, it also was rolling on the wall not good, he walked away beat up some but he walked. Now he did have a back up didn't pull it.

The reason for this post they forgot to turn on the air for the chutes, the head of tech checked after and the chutes came out when the air was turned on. over 100K of junk now, I was told only the small parts are good even the motor got hit hard.

One good thing he did is have a hans device even thow it's not needed until the end of July.

Test those chutes just in-case

1993 Mustang 514 all motor
1990 Mustang notch 460
1969 Mustang Mach1 351W
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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old 06-21-2008, 07:38 PM
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man one day I'll be fast enough to need one. If when I do it'll be a poorboy cable release.

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post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old 06-21-2008, 09:07 PM
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When we got our current car( X pro stock) it had carbon brakes. In talking to Jerry at JHRC he told told ous that the major trouble with carbon brakes is people don't pre heat them. You need to ride the brakes while doing the burn out to heat them up. If you don't, when you go to stop the car at the first push of the brake pedal you have no brakes. Then when this happens most people will push the pedal down even more. By then the brakes have the heat in them and lock up. You have to learn the correct amount to push and let the brake come to you. Due to this we removed the carbon brakes and installed reg. brakes. From talking to people that have learn know to use them they are very good brakes. As far as chutes good the spring is the way to go. Also even with a pilot chute if you pull them before the finish line, so that they hit just pass the line, work good also. I have also seen people that do think ahead "ie" what to do if the throttle hangs open or no brakes. Their first item on their checklist was to pull the fuel cutoff, hit the master switch and then pull the chute. Think about how many feet of the shutdown has gone under the car before any form brakes are use.
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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old 06-22-2008, 08:50 PM
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Throttle hang.. You can have a foot burried to the fire-wall on a brake pedal and its going to drive the tires off if there are front brakes....

Depending on fuel use, in alcohol, have to kill fuel flow before ignition or risk pushing crank out the bottom of the pan...... adding a lubricated track to your headaches.

Fuel drivers shut down proceedures.. fuel, fire (spark), chute, brake.. brake most useless piece of equipment on car...

If its under full throttle, itll simply blow the chute out also....

So if proceedure at trap is drop one, lift.... and the RPM dont change, next step is red, red, T, brake. OR Fuel, ignition, second chute, because now IM down to 1/8 mile shutdown or less..... and then start braking.

Carbon fiber aint bad, but we get what we pay for. Cheap brakes, cold... air temp to 300 degrees... then offgas and float.. Great for a 68 rambler american, suck for anything else.
Conventional brakes, 300 to 800 degrees... then fading fast.
Performance friction stuff, carbon metalic, 500 to 1200 degrees.
Z spec, 600 to 1400

Carbon carbon, *f1 tech... 800 to about 1800

As they are able to perform at higher temps... it takes more to get the materials biting.. and as mentioned... most fail to warm em up a little, and then go from no bit, to full bite, in a heart beat..........
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