I'm with Kim on this one, more power would be a great way to help keep the initial load applied to the suspension for a longer period of time helping to keep the car "up-on" the tire longer. It's possible to have too much tire (& too much w/b) for a given amount of power (no matter the type of car/suspension) to where the car can't keep the sidewall wound-up & applied very long. This can wind & unwind the sidewall repeatedly in the first 100 ft bouncing the car some. If you had a bunch more power/touque to work with I would say add at least another 1/2 to 1 pound of air & tighten the rear extension to at least 60 -70% of full tight, while leaving the I/C & rear compression as is for now.
But since your getting closer & closer to what the car want's for the current power level, those two normal "first on the list" adjustments may or may not help much at current power levels to help smooth the small recovery bounce. On the other hand testing is the only way to know for sure. If the bounce is from the initial hit being too violent causing a rebound bounce during recovery as the sidewall unwinds, the extension valving can be adjusted stiffer to slow down the speed of the initial hit.
If it's really just "sidewall bounce" that's a little trickier to diagnose the cause. The sidewall can bounce like a spring it your not running enough air pressure. But well after the initial hit and well into the suspension recovery (as the suspension settles) sidewall bounce can also be from the rear compression valving being too stiff causing a sidewall oscillation to start.
I will say that your current rear extension valving setting (2 from full soft) is so loose that it kinda sounds scary to me (and probably why you see the rear suspension & wheelie bars move so fast & unrestrained initially) Play with the air pressure & the extension valving some more first in small amounts to see what happens to the bounce. An I/C change is a major change & a last resort after the shock valving & air pressure has been tried first.
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