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post #1 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-26-2008, 09:49 PM Thread Starter
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Lets talk front engine dragsters

After helping my parents with there small block powered fox body mustang, & the small accident that pretty much destroyed my blown injected mud truck, I'm thinking about picking up a car of my own, I have a pretty clean late 60's front engine dragster found for $4500.00, this is only a roller & needs work, besides an engine & tranny everything else is pretty much there,

This project will have to wait a little while as I have to finish the girl friends drag truck (late 70's F-100 lightend, 4-linked & is powered by a pretty healthy 466)
But if I'm going to get one I might as well get it now, even if it has to set a year or so to get to working on it,

If I do pick this one up I would probably start with a mild engine, 500-550 hp naturally aspirated, run it that way for a while, then step up to a blown injected 429, shoot for maybe 800-900 hp,

What is your take on this,
What are the pros & cons of the F.E.D (or slingshot)

What can these cars be certified to?

I'm just kicking this idea around right now, so any input would be appreciated,

Leroy Latham
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post #2 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-26-2008, 11:04 PM
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I've pondered the idea myself, but if your looking for an all out bracket machine the rear engine stuff is the poop.

For a fun runner deal old school is cool.

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post #3 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-26-2008, 11:40 PM
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Make sure to call Ken Gentry for tech. He is the west coast main man, out of Idaho. Don't buy anything unless he OK's it. Tubing size, location, etc is critical. YOu will need a licence. Also, make sure you fit. People used to be smaller in the old days.

There are some NEW FED's out there for not much more money. The new ones are very nice & very consistent. I think you were looking at about 6-8K for a new one to spec. It sure beats buying someone's problem & paying double in the long run like I did. I bought a "ready to run, just ad helmet bars" car, junked it & built brand new. $$$$$

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post #4 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-27-2008, 11:32 AM
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Go to the SFI website and you can order spec book for that type of car.
Your probably going to have to replace and add some tubes to update the chassis.
Do you know anyone with a sonic tester to check the tubes wall thickness .
Dont spend any $ untill you find out how much work you have to do to bring that old chassis to todays specs.

Good Luck
Post some pictures

Ken
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post #5 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-27-2008, 02:23 PM Thread Starter
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According to the add the car was certed to 7.50s,

Here are some pics the seller sent me,










Anyone have any idea where to get info on chassis requirements, besides the SFI book, I do not have a problem buying the book, however the deal on the car may be gone by the time I get the book, Maybe just a pic of the required bars to go 7.50s to make sure the guy is legit on the current state of the car,

My previouse experiance with building chassis (off road) leads me to believe it would cost me nearly 5K to reproduce this chassis as is,
If I only have to make a reasonable change to the chassis (move or add a few bars) I could easily handle that at the cost of material,

Any way, let me know what you think from the pics, And any other info on requirements woud be great, I will order a book from SFI weather I buy this car or not,

Leroy Latham
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post #6 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-27-2008, 04:43 PM
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It may have been certified to 7.50, but it won't recert as it sits now. It will need helmet bars in the cage at a minimum. It's a requirement now. The last certifcations for cars without helmet bars expired in 2005. It also may need a new main hoop. There is a spec for how much the main hoop has to be laid back. (35°? perhaps?) an almost vertical main hoop won't pass.

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post #7 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-27-2008, 09:04 PM
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I'd pass on that sucker. Get a new JR fuel speced car from one of the good manufacturers or a good used one with current cert. Bakersfield Hot Rod reunion always has some for sale. Like I said before, for a little more, a VERY nice car can be had. THat thing looks like a hunk of **** IMO. I can see a weld defect in the pic of the front hoop... You want TIG welds... We're talking $8000 NEW...

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post #8 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-27-2008, 09:47 PM
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Looks kinda like an OLD Speed Products Engineering car from the mid 60's. NOT a desirable piece today. Nostalgia is great but there's something about having the feeling that those zoomies are pointed right at your eyeballs that detracts...a bit.

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post #9 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-27-2008, 10:13 PM
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easy to see the defect, it's not welded
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post #10 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-27-2008, 11:39 PM
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Skipped

If the car was built by a reputable builder in them days, Somewhere near the shoulder hoop will be a "sema tag" with a number welded to the chassis that will give you the builder and the date information through SFI / NHRA. I can put you in touch also with some nitro alliance gentleman that can chase your information also.

If it is certified, have the guy send you a picture of the certification sticker and you can check the documentation for yourself.

Personally - It does not look certified to me. I would pass on the car. If it needs certified you will be close to the price of a newer chassis and probably exceed the price of a newer used chassis.

If the car had “history & documentation” it would have some value as a “Cackle car” and would be sold to someone interested in that. If you have never seen a night cackle event they are pretty cool deal.

Be careful because NHRA has “ Exhibition certification” that allows some of these older chassis to compete in events like the good -guys and back to the 50” events. They are limited certification and there not the same as the competition certification.

Even if the car is in fact certified to 7.50 understand that the main drivers cage is their real concern. The chassis from the rear plate forward is seldom checked and none of the hardware is inspected. Keep in mind that even with a certified cage you have a chassis that is likely 40 plus yrs old and you have no clue to the history of the car.

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post #11 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-28-2008, 12:23 AM
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I agree it looks too old to go too fast. Not that it could not be updated, but it is not a new proper nostalgia thing either. They are much different. Here are a few pics of my brother in laws new front engine. Tres ....[ihttp://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn171/falcon8r/IMG_0794.jpgimg]
mg][/imhttp://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn171/falcon8r/IMG_0798.jpgg][ihttp://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn171/falcon8r/IMG_0796.jpgmg][/imhttp://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn171/falcon8r/IMG_0792.jpgg]

533 powered 1961 falcon , my car. Hot Rods and Tuners ....
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post #12 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-28-2008, 12:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skipped_link
Maybe just a pic of the required bars to go 7.50s
That's not really going to help much because a pic or two doesn't tell the whole story of what the SFI will want the car to have. This is because there's a **** load of text in the spec books to go along with their pics/diagrams that spell out exactly what they want to see in the chassis design/layout/& materials.


I don't have an SFI book for the front or rear engine dragsters so I don't know what all is required for a current dragster cert. But I would bet money that it's going to need some amount of upgrades to pass current SFI specs, only a sonic tester will tell you what you really have there to work with. And as already pointed out if enough tubing has to be replaced, it's probably going to be cheaper/better/safer to get a new "old" car.

Mark Williams has a real nice looking FED chassis kit that could be ideal for the nostalgia front engine stuff.

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post #13 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-28-2008, 10:25 AM Thread Starter
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How much would you guys say there is in parts?
With the complete front axle, steering, wheels, (i'm sure it will need new tires) the complete rear diff (9") & the set of wheelie bars,

I understand many do not like the front engine dragster idea, however if I choose to run a rail it will be front engine,

Since reading your comments on this car I've been shopping a bit more,

A Mark williams chassis is a little over $4500 for a bisic kit, & I do not even know what is included, I may give them a call,


S&W sells a kit, no price but I doo not like the 200" wheel base anyway,

There is a place on racing junk.com that is building new chassis & they are selling them for just shy of $4K
Here is a link,

http://www.racingjunk.com/post/11466...assis-FED.html

I believe this is also a very basic kit,

As fo buying a roller for $8K, that is simply to much money,

I think I could buy this car for $4500 & build a whole new chassis & bolt these parts to it & still be under $8K,

Of corse I do have a saying that my dad uses, "why buy when you can build it & it only cost three times as much"

If anyone has any links to a better car for the same or not much more money I would be interested in seeing them,

Thanks for all of your oppinions so far,

Leroy Latham
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post #14 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-28-2008, 12:33 PM
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I believe the racingjunk ad is from a guy who is, or was, a H.A.M.B.'er, and if so, his chassis were well spoken of there. I'm trying to find out a little more as it has been a while since I saw the threads.

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post #15 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-28-2008, 12:45 PM Thread Starter
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H.A.M.B.er as in, Honky *** message board? If so I saw a few cool threads over there I would like to spend more time reading,

I did not see any tie from this seller to that board, but then again I only ran acroos H.A.M.B while searching for front engine dragster info,
Any other info you find would be apprecieated,

Leroy Latham
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