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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-28-2010, 08:26 PM Thread Starter
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?? for auto body paint guy's

I would like to start the body work and painting on the Fairlane this winter and I was trying to do some budgeting. What are you guy's using for paint these days and what should that run a gallon or quart. I plan on painting the car 67 Ford silver frost.
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-28-2010, 08:57 PM
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i know a guy that does body work and he uses nason products. the paint looks nice and is a decent price. all about prep work.
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-29-2010, 12:53 AM
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X 1 million the prep......If you're woried about price, then get yourself some rattle cans and go to town, otherwise be prepared to shell out some $'s because materials are through the roof. The paint "systems" now a days are exactly that.....systems. Gone are the days where you layed down "primer" and then shot some enamel over it. Each manufacturer has their own compatible set of chemicals and, for the most part, they give you a killer end product. Follow the instructions per-vadem and you'll be quite pleased with the results......don't forget that color sanding, buffing and swirl polish removing are part and parcel of a show quality paint job. Hope that helps.
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-29-2010, 08:50 PM
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Total cost

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Originally Posted by NO FAIR View Post
I would like to start the body work and painting on the Fairlane this winter and I was trying to do some budgeting. What are you guy's using for paint these days and what should that run a gallon or quart. I plan on painting the car 67 Ford silver frost.
Thanks
Dave
Materials for a complete paint inside and out allowing for minor body work with quality products.

$1400.00

41 years in the business and quality materials are out of sight in price.

Lower grades with no warranty, no manufacturer support and minimal color match accuracy are about 60% cheaper.

Prep, prep, prep, you can't do too much.

67 Mustang F/B, 565, SCJ, 808hp
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-29-2010, 10:20 PM
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I have to agree 1000% with the other guys. Prep is very important. Every flaw you would see in the primer would be magnified with the paint and clear. Don't rush it. Patience is a virtue. The $1400 is a pretty fair price for a good job, but can get really expensive depending on the paint/clear you use.

For brands, I usually try to stick with PPG products.
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-30-2010, 07:36 AM
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I had a guy quote me a price of 2 grand minium without even looking at my car

521 Powered 66 Fairlane
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-30-2010, 08:12 AM
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I had a guy quote me a price of 2 grand minium without even looking at my car
Be prepared to pay a lot more than that!

If you're not living on the edge you're taking up too much space!
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-30-2010, 06:07 PM
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i used PPG shopline on my car and with minimal wetsanding........it looks like glass. that was in my 2 car attatched garage at home, spraying everything with a KOBALT (yes POS from LOWES) HVLP gun at about 75 degrees temp. just dialed it in spraying it on a peice of flat stock steel laying in the garage to get the pattern and volume dials set. it was about 300 something for the paint, clear, and that with the reducers for each. i did have about maybe 80 hours plus in long boarding it in high build epoxy........then sealing it, then sanding the whole thing in 400 wet............prior to applying the color. do not skimp the slightest bit in the prep. you can always fix paint mistakes.....you dont want to have to start trying to fix the initial layers! i was really really pleased for the money that almost any color, new or old, can be put together in the shopline series. there is better stuff but i havent seen to many, at that cost, that turned out this way. i worked at a body/paint shop and we always used PPG.....or some house of kolor on radical ****--candies and such.

Getting back on the streets real soon

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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-30-2010, 09:34 PM
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If you plan to do the work yourself, you'll probably spend about $500 for materials assuming a single stage eurethane. Base clear will be more expensive. Metalics and pearls get more expensive too. If you plan to do a single stage, stick with a non-metalic/pearl so you can wetsand and polish without getting into the flakes.

If anyone calling themselves a professional offers to do the job for less than $2000.00 they're going to be cutting some corners. Some major differences in the price and quality of a paint job is if all the trim is removed or not. If the jambs are sprayed or not.

I've used PPG and Sikkens with good results. Generally, it's best to stick with whatever line your local body shop supply carries. There will always be guys telling you to roll on the paint or spray it with tractor paint because it's cheap, but those kinds of jobs won't last and won't add to the re-sale value.

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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-02-2010, 10:04 AM
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I'm into my Cougar with Epoxy, primer, paint and clear for around $950. And that's with a 'buddy price' of materials. Keystone (store brand) Epoxy, primer, U-Tech (single stage) paint and Valspar clear I mixed in.. Not counting the sand paper, DA discs, and tools I had already.
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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-02-2010, 11:09 AM
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I am very satisfied with Eastwood's Urethane paint products. They are budget minded and you could probably paint the entire car for less than $500. The results are great as long as you spend lots and lots of time doing the prep body work. I've painted some other stuff like fender flares and whatnot with the Duplicolor Paint Shop pro system which is very very cheap and comes ready to shoot right out of the can. I don't think I'd shoot anything other than a race car or small pieces with it though. I just have one of the devilbiss $150 paint gun kits.

Here's a pic of the flare I painted with the Paint Shop Pro stuff the day after I shot it....It's still got orange peel and needs to be wet-sanded and buffed out. I didn't do all the prep work required and it shows.
http://i.imgur.com/2Nqo4.jpg?7422

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