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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 11-19-2010, 03:01 PM Thread Starter
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Electric forced air heaters garage/shop?

Has anyone used forced air electric heaters in their garage/shop?
I am trying to heat a 36x32 area with 8' walls.
It isn't insulated, but 2/3rds is block wall that is backfilled to the top because it is built into a bank.
I'm thinking about using something like this;
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...6377_200316377

I'm not that worried about the running cost because I would only use it on a as needed basis.
I'm tired of a cold garage... Salamander is OK, but stinky and headache inducing..

Anybody using something like this?
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 11-19-2010, 03:43 PM
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I install those in quite a bit in the surface buildings at mines. They work, but they're a bit noisy if you like it quiet. They can be wired for remote TStat but they usually come with the dial on the side.
Depending on your climate and how warm you like it in your shop they may not keep up.
FWIW i kept my house warm with a 4800 watt construction heater for 3 months as i was renovating. It would keep up to fairly cold temps, as cold as -15 or so at night, but warm up to -5-10 during the day, but the walls were insulated. house is about 1000 sq feet.

With only 8 ft walls there should be no problem, just make sure you find a stud when you mount the bracket, they are heavy enough.

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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 11-19-2010, 04:54 PM
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I've used one of Northerns 5000 watt 220 volt heaters in a large 2 car garage. If it was above zero and you left it on all day, it made it descent to work in and it didn't make the electric bill go up much. It was pretty small and you could move it around the garage, to where you were working.I had used a propane radiant heater before,it produced much less smell than the standard salamander type heater.
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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 11-19-2010, 06:46 PM
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a heads up for all the torpedo/salamander heater guys> i run a heater all winter long in garages all over heck while working on garage doors..... if you pour a bottle or two of heat in the fuel they burn cleaner and hotter, fumes are almost nonexistent... zbob
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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 11-19-2010, 09:13 PM
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I've got this one: http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...Product%20Page

Works okay. Not the blast furnace effect you get from overhead gas heaters, but it warms things up eventually and has a built in thermostat. Doesn't seem to effect the electric bill much if at all.

Sometimes I'll run a kerosene top-hat deal for thirty minutes or so to get things warmed up faster. The electric heater has a 30 degree increase.....meaning if the air coming into it is 30 degrees, it blows 60 degree on the output.

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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 11-20-2010, 06:39 AM
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Electric heat is 100% efficient, doesn't smell, safer due to no flames, but you may need to add additional electrical service to run it. Also check electric rates in your area to see if they go up based on how many kw's you use.
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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 11-20-2010, 07:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maulerman View Post
Electric heat is 100% efficient, doesn't smell, safer due to no flames, but you may need to add additional electrical service to run it. Also check electric rates in your area to see if they go up based on how many kw's you use.
I would trade my electric furnaces for a gas unit any day of the week. In a poorly insulated building I don't see an electric heater keeping up but it depends on how cold "cold" really is.

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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 11-20-2010, 10:20 AM
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I would trade my electric furnaces for a gas unit any day of the week. In a poorly insulated building I don't see an electric heater keeping up but it depends on how cold "cold" really is.
AND how large of a furnace it is.
20KW will keep up in that building no matter how cold it gets.

If my electricity rates were not so high i'd trade my Hi-Ef gas off on an electric any day of the week. I can fix any one part of an electric for under $100. Not a chance of that on a gas. I'm tired of having to unclog the snow and ice from my inlet pipe in the winter. I've tried making a cover over it but it still does it. It only seems to do it when its about -35 out.
I get more snow and colder weather than 99% of the people on here.

But 10KW is on the small side for a non insulated 1100 sq/ft shop in the cold areas.

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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 11-20-2010, 10:40 AM
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The fume free thing is big. I used to get headaches and end up kind of mentally "foggy" after eight hours in the shop heating with propane, kerosene, etc. Now with electric, all the bad health effects are gone.

I also have a few of these infra-red heaters hanging from the ceiling for instant and/or short term heat.


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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 11-22-2010, 02:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Diggindeeper View Post
AND how large of a furnace it is.
20KW will keep up in that building no matter how cold it gets.

If my electricity rates were not so high i'd trade my Hi-Ef gas off on an electric any day of the week. I can fix any one part of an electric for under $100. Not a chance of that on a gas. I'm tired of having to unclog the snow and ice from my inlet pipe in the winter. I've tried making a cover over it but it still does it. It only seems to do it when its about -35 out.
I get more snow and colder weather than 99% of the people on here.

But 10KW is on the small side for a non insulated 1100 sq/ft shop in the cold areas.
Hell digginD, Timmins, Ont isn't ever very far north so I don't know what you are talking about it being cold. Shelby Montana looks more northern on google.

I have 2 electric furnaces in my 2500 sq ft house. You must do your own furnace work if you can fix one for under $100 because last year I had to change a couple parts and it cost me $700 for someone to come and do it. I spent 32 years living in Edmonton, Ab and I know what cold is. There is no way in hell this money sucking electric crap would hold up a candle to a gas furnace. I'm not sure why you are having to clean ice from your inlet pipe but it sounds like you have some serious heat loss there if it is melting the snow at -35.

I had a 1 car garage uninsulated with a gas convection heater similar to what is posted and it would barely warm it in the fall let alone the cold temperature in the winter.

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post #11 of 19 (permalink) Old 11-23-2010, 09:49 AM
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FWIW,............

I have a 7.5kw Fan-Forced heater in my 24x24 (11' ceiling) garage and it does a fine job,......but it's fairly well insulated too.

I know there may be better options, but it's really nice to reach out the kitchen door and turn it on. 10-30 minutes later (depending on the outside temps), I'm ready to work comfortably.

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post #12 of 19 (permalink) Old 11-23-2010, 11:05 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys!!
The ceiling isn't insulated, but it has a flat 3/4" plywood floor.(not open to the rafters, there is a second story)
I really like the electric idea, no flammable fuels, simple installation. But if its going to take over an hour to warm up, depending on what I'm doing, I'd be done already.
My 100,000 btu kerosene salamander heater takes about 15/20 min to drive the chill out of my garage. I don't need to work in my shirt sleeves, but when my hands go numb from handling tools... I have to do something.
Usually I would like to bring the temp from 35/40* to 55/60*
Because of being built into the bank I must get some "ground heat". The garage typically never gets below freezing, even if its in the teens outside for a couple of weeks.

I really didn't want to have to dig a trench and lay pipe for Ngas..... But that might be a better route. You can definitely get a lot more BTUs from a similar sized heater with gas.

I did find a monster 51,195btu 63amp forced air electric ceiling heater..... But I think the cost, and I only have a 100amp service to the garage, wouldn't be worth it.
http://www.everyaircompressor.com/Fo...A-FRO1006.html
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post #13 of 19 (permalink) Old 11-25-2010, 08:46 AM
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If you are looking on the low buck end Andy I would talk to so furnace guys and see if they have any used ones. With all the incentives lately to upgrade to high efficiency furnaces there is bound to be some used house furnaces out there for a couple hundred dollars. Having way more btu's then you need would help offset the fact you have no insulation.

An electric one will need two 50 amp breakers so that would be a problem or you would have to run a gas line.

Just some options to consider.

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Last edited by fordsbyjay; 11-25-2010 at 08:58 AM.
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post #14 of 19 (permalink) Old 11-25-2010, 05:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fordsbyjay View Post
Hell digginD, Timmins, Ont isn't ever very far north so I don't know what you are talking about it being cold. Shelby Montana looks more northern on google.

I have 2 electric furnaces in my 2500 sq ft house. You must do your own furnace work if you can fix one for under $100 because last year I had to change a couple parts and it cost me $700 for someone to come and do it. I spent 32 years living in Edmonton, Ab and I know what cold is. There is no way in hell this money sucking electric crap would hold up a candle to a gas furnace. I'm not sure why you are having to clean ice from your inlet pipe but it sounds like you have some serious heat loss there if it is melting the snow at -35.

I had a 1 car garage uninsulated with a gas convection heater similar to what is posted and it would barely warm it in the fall let alone the cold temperature in the winter.
Nowhere in montana is north of timmins ontario. Unless its north of the 49 paralell. I'm right by the 49 parallel.

also no Hudsons Bay, and Lake Superior to change your weather patterns.

ANY how, heat loss?? its the high efficient furnace inlet i'm not sure if you know what thats all about but... its snow building up and blowing in my pipe.

Well i stayed warm for a long time on the prairies where i grew up with 15KW furnace. Plus no heat exchanger to replace in 10 years, and circuit boards to fry.
Electric furnace sequencers are about 25-30 bucks a piece.
an element is anywhere from 50-75.
high limit is around 25 as well.
Thats about all that goes wrong on them, except for the odd burned wire which is usually sign of other trouble.

For $700 they should have been carting your old furnace out and replacing it with a new one.
Or they spent so 3 days trying to figure out what is wrong. They are simple.

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post #15 of 19 (permalink) Old 11-25-2010, 05:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyMarkV View Post
Thanks guys!!
The ceiling isn't insulated, but it has a flat 3/4" plywood floor.(not open to the rafters, there is a second story)
I really like the electric idea, no flammable fuels, simple installation. But if its going to take over an hour to warm up, depending on what I'm doing, I'd be done already.
My 100,000 btu kerosene salamander heater takes about 15/20 min to drive the chill out of my garage. I don't need to work in my shirt sleeves, but when my hands go numb from handling tools... I have to do something.
Usually I would like to bring the temp from 35/40* to 55/60*
Because of being built into the bank I must get some "ground heat". The garage typically never gets below freezing, even if its in the teens outside for a couple of weeks.

I really didn't want to have to dig a trench and lay pipe for Ngas..... But that might be a better route. You can definitely get a lot more BTUs from a similar sized heater with gas.

I did find a monster 51,195btu 63amp forced air electric ceiling heater..... But I think the cost, and I only have a 100amp service to the garage, wouldn't be worth it.
http://www.everyaircompressor.com/Fo...A-FRO1006.html
electric furnaces are not measured in BTU, however if someone bothered to do the conversion that would be about 50KW.
which would draw over 200 amps.

10KW electric furnaces only draw 45 amps at 240V. Thats by far the best choice.

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