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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-09-2006, 06:12 PM Thread Starter
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electricians

are individuals allowed to change there service from 60 amp to 100 or 200. or does it have to be done by your power company. Just bought my new welder, it will work on current power. I would like to upgrade though, since everytime air compressor runs the lights in the house flicker.
Thanks, Dave
also cant use full power of welder at current service, bought thinking of future
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-09-2006, 07:57 PM
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lic. electrition has to do it.

in my town anyway. should set you back aabout $1000. Go straight for the 200 A. 100 is still small nowadays.
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-09-2006, 08:21 PM
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I had Public Service run a new 200 Amp to the garage so the light in the house wouldn't flicker when I pulled the trigger on the welders .

It cost me $20.00 a month just to have the new meter.. but hey what the heck ....
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-09-2006, 08:30 PM
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Check with your city/power company as a lot of different rules in different parts of the country. Some REA's will change out the service from the top down to the meter socket. Others will provide the meter socket and others you must buy it.

Then in other area's as stated above you must use a lic. electrical contractor.
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-09-2006, 11:53 PM
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Dave-

In the city of Peoria directly, it must be inspected by the city code enforcement (supposed to be, that is). Outside the city, for the most part, you can do it yourself (you can in Peoria too, w/inspection). Cilco is pretty good about things as long as it meets their requirements. I'm guessing you are on Cilco, anyway.

You are responsible for everything from the weatherhead on down (assuming your line is above ground). You can use a PVC weatherhead & conduit. You must supply the meter socket as well. As mentioned above, go for the 200A service. 100A & even 125A are too small nowadays.

Square D makes a 200A "QO" series panel that runs around $150-200, & sometimes includes ten 20A breakers as a promo. Their Homeline series isn't as good, but is somewhat cheaper.

I just installed this same setup in 9/05 & total costs were around $550, including the breakers, triplex, conduit, socket, weatherhead, ground wire & rod, & misc. Cilco didn't even blink about connecting me, but then again I've done this on several houses & they know I haven't blown anything up yet. :lol: I will say though that the cost of wire has skyrocketed since then so 2/0 or 3/0 is likely higher.

Mike

IN: Staring adversity in the face while working on your car and coming out on top

OUT: Finally realizing that every $%&# thing you touch on your car turns to adversity
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-10-2006, 10:50 PM
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SQ-D Homeline Series

are junk. Stay / Run away from them. Use the SQ-D QO series and you won't have any problems. This same breaker is in our VA Hospitals, Schools, Federal Buildings and millions of others, only diff is that they bolt in instead of plug-in. Been made since the early 60's with only minor changes. Best breaker on the market for 45+ years.

Bryan Totten
"When in doubt shoot again"
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-10-2006, 11:59 PM
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all Square D is junk. Challenger is too. Buy a Siemens Panel/distribution box. meter box too. Siemens will cost more but this isn't a place to save money.
If you wire it yourself, be sure to install a GFCI on at least one receptacle and then the rest downstream of that one, but no more than 4-5. I'd go with 4.

don't tie any Neutrals ( grounded conductor ) to Greens ( grounding conductor ) except at the panel. Most Panels have it already done but check it with a meter, this is critical.

Be sure to TRY and balance all your loads. Lights won't flicker when using 220 AC devices if the 110 legs are balanced.

Take care and good luck.
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-11-2006, 05:01 AM
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Square D bolt-in breakers are QOB
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