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post #1 of 29 (permalink) Old 02-24-2006, 08:01 PM Thread Starter
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triangulated 4-link

I remember somebody posting pics of their triangulated four link on the old site. I think it was one of the bronco guys. I am considering doing this on my truck and would like to see those pictures again and what parts you used to do it. Thanks
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post #2 of 29 (permalink) Old 02-25-2006, 02:40 AM
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Bronco Beast.

I think you might be thinking about Pat, "Bronco Beast". I don't remember his site address, but you might be able to find a reference to it on the old net54 460 site.

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post #3 of 29 (permalink) Old 02-25-2006, 04:54 PM
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post #4 of 29 (permalink) Old 02-25-2006, 07:52 PM
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You will also find pictures of a triangulated 4 link on the under pinnings page of my site: http://www.robisonracing.com/pages/5/index.htm .
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post #5 of 29 (permalink) Old 02-25-2006, 08:59 PM Thread Starter
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I was wanting to see how pat had mounted the top bars on his because the 78/79 broncos are virtually the same as the 73/79 f-150s. Looks like he just bolted it directly to the frame. I think when I do it, I will run a piece of square tube directly against that crossmember so that it will have enough support, especially if I have to notch it for driveshaft clearance since the truck is bagged.
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post #6 of 29 (permalink) Old 12-04-2006, 05:45 PM Thread Starter
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sorry to bring this back from the dead, but will a triangulated 4-link act the same as a parallel 4-link? I need to know if it can be adjusted like a the parallel or not. Dont know how many people out there are using the triangulated link, so any info for making a decision is helpful.
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post #7 of 29 (permalink) Old 12-05-2006, 01:02 PM
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The triangulated 4-link can also be adjusted similar to a parallel setup,(triangulated does not have a panhard bar) the main thing you will need to remember is when adjusting the bars (for pinion angle and such) you will also need to double check your lateral movement, ( if you adjust one upper or lower more that the other it will shift the diff housing to one side or the other,)

traingulated 4-link really only becomes tricky on long travel suspension, (changing roll over steer & rear steer throughout travel) in your application once you set it up correctly it should not change much through out travel,

Leroy Latham
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post #8 of 29 (permalink) Old 12-05-2006, 05:29 PM Thread Starter
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okay. I'll look tonight to see what kind of room I have to work with. Is there a perticular angle for the top bars that is needed or does it just have to be able to hold the axle centered?
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post #9 of 29 (permalink) Old 12-05-2006, 05:52 PM
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Triangulated 4 links seems to be the latest fad everywhere and it is the last suspension I would put in a vehicle. We are talking about 1978 Fairmont technology......it sucks to say the least. It is plagued with suspension bind problems when you want anything more than a stock ride quality and ride height. It is the same as the whole M11 thing. Why the heck would I want to put 30 year old suspension in my 40 year old car. My pinto ride is the last thing I would be 'upgrading' to.

Go with a parallel setup or a drag type 4 link and use a panhard bar to control axle movement side to side. With the amount of drop in your truck I think that would be better.

There will be some that think it is great but I pose this question: what does the new mustang have ?? Not a four link. If you look at alot of winning Mustangs built to handle what do they have? Steeda, Griggs, Maximum Motorsports all have solutions to get rid of the triangulated setup.

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post #10 of 29 (permalink) Old 12-05-2006, 06:14 PM
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Jay with what you just said, what is one of the quickest, easiest to hook up cars with a stockish suspension? I am refering to the fox body cars & a triangulated 4-link, I won't debate what is winning & how becuase I do not know, what I do know is I have seen some very fast cars hooking a lot of power to the ground through a fairly small tire, all with a lightly modded tri 4-link,

I believe a person should install what they like, & if you are not a fan of the tri 4-link that is fine, but to call in out dated, or antiquated, that is your opinion, (which you have the right to), but there are areas of motorsport where the triangulated 4-link dominates & is the best option,

Oh, & 545guy, with your truck bieng lowered I think you'll have to think out side the box to find a mounting place for a panhard bar with a parallel 4-link, (that is if you still have a floor in the bed of your truck,) you could always use the angled panhard similar to competition engeneering, but then you essentially have a traingulated 4-link with an extra bar that is not needed,

Leroy Latham
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post #11 of 29 (permalink) Old 12-05-2006, 06:45 PM Thread Starter
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I have plenty of room. Right now i'm running a two link with a watts link. I thought maybe I could get rid of the watts link, because I ended up putting it on top of the axle, which doesn't look that great, and will bind when all the way down. The trucks got only 13" of drop :lol:
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post #12 of 29 (permalink) Old 12-05-2006, 08:26 PM
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Yea, I'd say you have plenty of room for a pan hard bar, If you choose to go with the parallel link set up, I did not realize you were running a watts link setup,

on a side note, what are you running for suspension on the front, I am getting ready to work on the girl friends drag truck & I've just started looking at how poeple have lowered the front ends of these late 70's 2wd trucks, how is yours done?

Leroy Latham
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post #13 of 29 (permalink) Old 12-05-2006, 08:33 PM
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LOL....

Jay, when the new Mustang came out, I was amazed at how much the rear suspension looks just like my 1966 Galaxie. :shock: :lol: I hear the new Mustangs have some wheelhop issues just like my Galaxie too. :lol: The Gal does ride real nice though.

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post #14 of 29 (permalink) Old 12-05-2006, 09:15 PM
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Re: LOL....

Quote:
Originally Posted by cletus66
Jay, when the new Mustang came out, I was amazed at how much the rear suspension looks just like my 1966 Galaxie. :shock: :lol: I hear the new Mustangs have some wheelhop issues just like my Galaxie too. :lol: The Gal does ride real nice though.
Well my 06 has not had any issues but I have not bolted any slicks on it or anything. Just street driving. I can tell you that it handles light years better than my 85 ever did when it was new.

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post #15 of 29 (permalink) Old 12-05-2006, 09:57 PM Thread Starter
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I'm still running I-beams, but switched them to chassis tech 3" dropped beams(expensive, but as strong or stronger than original's I think)

You know, I may be able to put them on the outside of the frame, but it needs to serve dual purpose. Needs to be able to tilt side to side and not sure if the parallel setup would like that or not. If I go that way, I'll just remake the watts link, so that my tires will never rub. They are close as it is, and my et streets are getting the letters chewed off :lol:
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