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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-07-2013, 10:33 AM Thread Starter
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460 Engine Build for 80s f150

Heres my 1978 Lincoln 460. I bought it complete with everything for $400. The car it came out of was immaculate. So far for my swap i bought all the factory mounts for a 80s f250. Ive bought the rear sump oil pan, pickup tube and gasket as well. I also got my mr gasket oil filter relocation kit and 1970 429 straight up timing set. Im just looking for suggestions on what to do with this engine as far as cheap and best performance mods. Should I swap the rebuilt motocraft carb for something else? maybe get rid of the old intake? Im not looking for anything crazy. I just dont want to have to pull the heads off or touch the bottom end as it only has 81,000 km. Its going in a 1984 ford f150 2wd with c6 and 3:50 geared 9 inch.
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-07-2013, 10:33 AM Thread Starter
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-07-2013, 10:51 AM
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Hey there. As far as easy bolt on mods. Don't know about the carb too much but I have a 750 holley vac secondary that I got from a guy for 75 $ and it works great. No need to spend big money on a carb if you can find a deal. Like I said don't know to much about the carb. Intake wise I would get rid of that monstrosity and put an edelbrock performer on. You will cool the intake charge better, its A LOT lighter and they egr ones for you as well. Good for low end response. Straight up timing chain will wake it up as well as a recurved distributor will do wonders. You could lso port your exhaust side of the heads but that takes a lot of time!! Anyway those are my suggestions from what I have been told and learned here. These are great guys and they will chime in of coarse. Good luck with your build!!

P.S. post some pics of the truck!!

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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-07-2013, 12:22 PM
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If it is out and you have easy access I would do a cam and lifters, port the heads, re-curve dist, timing chain straight up, and throw a edelbock performer intake with Edelbrock 750 Carb and a set of headers with duals and call it good. Should run you around 1500-2000 and you will be more than pleased.

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1964 F100 466 zero decked fuelie 7cc dish pistons, with RHP 2.11 1.65 budget D3 heads, Voodoo cam 219/227, rpm intake, Holley Terminator EFI, MSD Ignition, MSD FORD TFI Distrbutor, 4R70W Trans with Baumann Re-cal kit, US Shift electronic Trans controller with B&M Megashifter, 2500 Dirty Dog Convertor, 3.50 gears with detroit locker.

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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-07-2013, 02:30 PM Thread Starter
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I'm comfortable doing the cam and lifters. But again want to leave the heads on the engine. Ill be adding headman long tubes. What's a decent cam and lifters I can use without touching valve springs .
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-26-2013, 10:30 AM Thread Starter
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a guy i know wants to buy the spread bore carberator off me for 125 bucks so im going to sell it. if i get a different carb will all my old linkage and stuff work? and what is the best stock cast iron intake to look for thats relatively easy to find? because if he takes the carb im looking for an intake an carb combo
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-27-2013, 06:13 AM
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Been there Done That Allmost

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a guy i know wants to buy the spread bore carberator off me for 125 bucks so im going to sell it. if i get a different carb will all my old linkage and stuff work? and what is the best stock cast iron intake to look for thats relatively easy to find? because if he takes the carb im looking for an intake an carb combo
My truck is a 1978 F150 like your engine, but my enginge is a 1972 429 2V converted to 4V via SCJ intake with port match and Hedman headers. 1. 1968-71 Timing chain set a must, to me. 2. Headers a must, again to me. 3. Intake change I would recomend if you are after good performance. I like the cast iron Scj, but a Cj spreadbore flange could work well and gives you the Q-Jet option, which can improve gas mileage, over alot of the Holleys, but not neccesarry all of them. If you like Aluminum, depending on combination of engine there are several to choose from. 4. Heads, If you want better performance than stock I would remove the exhaust humps for sure if your's still have them. If you go with the CJ/Scj intake portmatch the intake while there off, and change valve springs to match the cam you choose. I would stay pretty close to .500" lift with stock springs, but you may get by with a tad more, say .540" max, if you feel lucky. 5. Cam I would stay around 270 or less advertised duration, thats around 219 to 226 at .050 for most manufacturors. From what I have, seen, I look at the .050" duration specs, and ignore the advertised duration, because different companies measure the cam duration, at different lift heights, to determine duriation, IE .002" to .006" lift before they measure duration. 6. You may want to throw in a 2,200 Rpm convertor if you go with a 270ish cam, but not a must.
7. I like Holley 750 Double Pump carb, with the downleg boosters, not the stait ones, with the tube through the booster, and yes I have seen a few 750 with these boosters around, but they drink alot of gas. Holley makes or did make a Semi Spread Bore Square Flange carb with Ford Auto trans kickdown in both 650 and 750cfm with the emissions metering blocks that should improve mileage over the regular Double pumps, and they was a Double pump also. The Holley List #'S are 6708 and 6709, 650 and 750cfm, respectivily. The CJ cast iron with an old Endelbrock 895cfm Q-jet should work really well also, but you may have to hunt for a used one, as I don't believe they make them anymore? Once you get past this, very much, you are entering the world of Hot Rod and prices and driveabity as well as gas mileage start going crazy quickly.

Last edited by supervel45; 08-27-2013 at 06:55 AM. Reason: spelling ect.
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-27-2013, 06:49 AM
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Valve springs Heads On.

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I'm comfortable doing the cam and lifters. But again want to leave the heads on the engine. Ill be adding headman long tubes. What's a decent cam and lifters I can use without touching valve springs .
If you have an air compressor you can get a insert to blow air in the cylinder to hold the valve up through the spark plug hole. You can also do it the Red Neck way with a small piece of rope put in through the spark plug hole and turn the engine slowly until the piston stops against the valve and holds it up. On the cams I am Old School, and like the Isky 264 and 270 Mega Cams, the Comp Cams 268 High Engery and 270 Magnum is my next choice, but they have less lift than the Isky's. The new Comp Xtreme Energy and 4x4 Extreme and Xtreme marine, or kind of knew and look good too if you like Dual Pattern cams? The main difference between the Comp Xtremes in 4x4 ,marine ect, seems to be lobe seperation, from around 109 to 111-112 degrees or so. Isky's are 108. Beware the 274 Xtreme Engery cam it is Closer to a 280 cam of old, don't be fooled by the 274 designation, it is 234 duration at .050 on the intake side. I guess if you stuck enough rags in the exhaust ports the humps could be ground off, with the heads off, with the rocker arms loose so the valves are all closed, and then blown out with air, but that is even to redneck for me. Lol. Pullem off and fix them up nice, and do a valve job too, if they need it, money well spent.
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-16-2013, 08:09 AM Thread Starter
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Well after diggin through ads online. I found a local mud truck racing guy with some goodies. I bought a 750 holley double pumper. edelbrock performer rpm manifold. and what i thought to be a set of c9 heads. turns out one is a c9 and one is a d0ve. i took for granted they were same casting since it was still on engine when we removed. will i be able to run one c9 an one d0ve? what kind of power would i be expecting to get with this stuff on a 78 smog bottom end with a 70 timing set.
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-16-2013, 08:20 AM
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Yes you can run C9 and D0 heads together they are the same. Any porting on the heads? Are you still considering a cam upgrade?

I would guess about 340HP with your new parts but if you do a cam and some porting you could gain more.

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1964 F100 466 zero decked fuelie 7cc dish pistons, with RHP 2.11 1.65 budget D3 heads, Voodoo cam 219/227, rpm intake, Holley Terminator EFI, MSD Ignition, MSD FORD TFI Distrbutor, 4R70W Trans with Baumann Re-cal kit, US Shift electronic Trans controller with B&M Megashifter, 2500 Dirty Dog Convertor, 3.50 gears with detroit locker.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rbl-v...3&feature=plcp
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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-16-2013, 10:26 AM Thread Starter
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I never checked the guy said he didn't think so. I imagine maybe just grinding the exhaust side a bit.
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post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-16-2013, 12:12 PM
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heads

yes the heads will be fine, but if you wanna change the rockers to roller or roller tip you will have to install pushrod guide plates under the rocker studs, because your heads have self aligning rockers on them and no guide plates no big deal just remember if you change your rockers!!!!!!!!
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post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-17-2013, 07:03 PM Thread Starter
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What would the the intake and carb run like on a stock d3 headed 78 460?
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post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-17-2013, 07:16 PM
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If your looking for low end torque and throttle response then the performer intake would benefit you more in that department than the rpm manifold.

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Last edited by 68montego; 09-18-2013 at 12:14 AM.
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post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-21-2013, 04:12 PM Thread Starter
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I scored another set of d0ve-a heads today to for a fair price. Just the weight in scrap. So ill take all 4 of the heads I have and get the best 2 redone. So why wouldn't the performer rpm work good? The power starts at 1500-6500
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