Estimate my setup 545ci - 460 Ford Forum
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-20-2016, 02:56 PM Thread Starter
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Estimate my setup 545ci

Hi

I'm new on this forum and i'm French.
here's the engine specs.

Block lincoln 1974 D1VE 2 bolt
Kit stroker forged H rod 545ci with 10:7 compression
Head cylinder A460 power port
Intake A460 tfs 54400111
Dominator 1050 mods E85
Main girdle
Comp cam 34 713 9 (296BR 8)
260/268 @050 lift .726/726 lobe 108
2 inch headers and 3.5 exhaust

i want to build a good amount of horsepower
With this setup do you think i could get 700 hp?
I bought A460 because it was cheaper than SCJ but i don t need 1000hp.

This motor fits in my mustang 1968 and 90% on street.
Thank you
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-20-2016, 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by zeus148 View Post
Hi

I'm new on this forum and i'm French.
here's the engine specs.

Block lincoln 1974 D1VE 2 bolt
Kit stroker forged H rod 545ci with 10:7 compression
Head cylinder A460 power port
Intake A460 tfs 54400111
Dominator 1050 mods E85
Main girdle
Comp cam 34 713 9 (296BR 8)
260/268 @050 lift .726/726 lobe 108
2 inch headers and 3.5 exhaust

i want to build a good amount of horsepower
With this setup do you think i could get 700 hp?
I bought A460 because it was cheaper than SCJ but i don t need 1000hp.

This motor fits in my mustang 1968 and 90% on street.
Thank you
You should have no problem making 700 horse with that combo. I'd suggest going to a 2 1/4" primary tube though. That cam is going to like a 4K+ stall converter too.
Rob

Rob Hawes-Anchorage Rod Works-Anchorage, Alaska

Last edited by White Lightning; 01-20-2016 at 05:14 PM.
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-20-2016, 06:42 PM
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You should have no problem making 700 horse with that combo. I'd suggest going to a 2 1/4" primary tube though. That cam is going to like a 4K+ stall converter too.
Rob
Rob its a 90% street car..........IMO i would use the 2 inch headers.

If anything up the comp if you are using E85, and get rid of the main girdle Zeus.

Cheers Bob
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-20-2016, 07:19 PM
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Rob its a 90% street car..........IMO i would use the 2 inch headers.

If anything up the comp if you are using E85, and get rid of the main girdle Zeus.

Cheers Bob
True, I was just thinking of one and done.
It's never enough power when you've got a set of A heads! Lol
Rob

Rob Hawes-Anchorage Rod Works-Anchorage, Alaska
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-21-2016, 01:36 PM
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I'm curious as to why you advised him to get rid of the main girdle?
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-21-2016, 02:12 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for you quick answer.
Mustang 1968 engine compartment is small for 2 inch 1/4 headers.
I think i will choose a 2 inch headers.
I have a question.

I bought a hei dritributors is it going to work with my setup.

Here is the link
Summit Racing® Blueprinted HEI Distributors SUM-850025 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-21-2016, 03:28 PM Thread Starter
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Here is my mustang with mods shock tower
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File Type: jpg IMG_20160121_36483.jpg (43.9 KB, 37 views)
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-21-2016, 04:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zeus148 View Post
Thanks for you quick answer.
Mustang 1968 engine compartment is small for 2 inch 1/4 headers.
I think i will choose a 2 inch headers.
I have a question.

I bought a hei dritributors is it going to work with my setup.

Here is the link
Summit Racing® Blueprinted HEI Distributors SUM-850025 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing
An HEI is good choice for a street set up like yours. Carl (Cars By Carl on here) also sells them, give him a shout.
Rob

Rob Hawes-Anchorage Rod Works-Anchorage, Alaska
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-21-2016, 04:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Econodrag View Post
I'm curious as to why you advised him to get rid of the main girdle?
A main stud girdle, to be effective, needs to contact the cap with as much contact area as can be had to negate the efforts of the crank trying to push the crank out through the bottom of the block. The type of stud girdles sold are generic and barely touch the main cap....if at all.
If you have concerns of the strength of the main caps in your build, then you should be looking at a splay bolted 4 bolt main cap. A cap of that configuration will spread the load out over a larger area and most of the aftermarket caps far exceed the strength of a factory block.
Rob

Rob Hawes-Anchorage Rod Works-Anchorage, Alaska
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-21-2016, 08:12 PM
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e-85 will work better with more compression. on some d-1 blocks theres not enough material for four bolt main caps. keep the main girdle. it also the main caps from walking. 700 hp should be no problem.
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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-21-2016, 08:35 PM
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Originally Posted by milt460 View Post
e-85 will work better with more compression. on some d-1 blocks theres not enough material for four bolt main caps. keep the main girdle. it also the main caps from walking. 700 hp should be no problem.
I'll have to disagree with you on the cap walk. Without full contact across the full width of the bottom of the cap all the generic girdles do is act as a washer under the bolt head. As I said, if you don't finish the machine work that's needed to turn it into an actual functioning girdle, it's a waste of money.
In all actuality nothing more than the factory 2 bolt main caps are needed with a targeted horsepower level of 700 horse. A factory 2 bolt bottom end and a factory cast crank will handle well into the 4 digit horsepower range.
Cap walk occurs when bad tunes are encountered. With a bad tune no amount of cap stabilization will hold the cap in place, it WILL walk.
Rob

Rob Hawes-Anchorage Rod Works-Anchorage, Alaska

Last edited by White Lightning; 01-21-2016 at 08:43 PM.
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