Billet aluminum Fox K-member spacer kit. - 460 Ford Forum
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-04-2007, 02:02 PM Thread Starter
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Billet aluminum Fox K-member spacer kit.

1.5" spacers. Precision drilled for accurate k-member placement.
Fits all Fox and SN95 chassis and all stock and aftermarket K-members (K-member must be compatable with chassis application).
Includes Caterpillar grade-8 hardware.

$139.00 plus shipping. PayPal or Postal money orders accepted.

One kit available currently. More available in two weeks.



.
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Bob Meyer
www.BIGBLOCKFOX.com
'69 Mach1 390 4-spd, '64 Falcon Futura
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-04-2007, 05:03 PM
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Re: Billet aluminum Fox K-member spacer kit.

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Originally Posted by BBBob_M
1.5" spacers. Precision drilled for accurate k-member placement.
Fits all Fox and SN95 chassis and all stock and aftermarket K-members (K-member must be compatable with chassis application).
Includes Caterpillar grade-8 hardware.

$139.00 plus shipping. PayPal or Postal money orders accepted.

One kit available currently. More available in two weeks.



.
whats the whole purpose of spacing down the k - frame? increased oil pan clearance, header clearance, if you are using a motor plate? won't the spacers create a more exagerated problem with the bump steer? however it will also take up 1&1/2 inches of your front strut travel reducing the springs stored energy on a launch given the fact that all of the companys only sell standard length struts and that is what everybody runs.
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-04-2007, 05:26 PM Thread Starter
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Hood clearance and engine/tailshaft angle. Big blocks are extreemly tall, and in typical swaps they set in there at an extreem uphill angle.

The location of the rack limits how far you can lower the engine in a Fox chassis. By using the spacers you can lower everything including the engine mounts all at once. And the factory geometry remains unchanged. Bump steer same as stock. If the car is run at stock ride height, the distance from the spndle to the top of the strut is unchanged and there is no difference in available travel. Only thing that changes is the control arms will be angled up a small amount... Same as a Fox that's lowered 1.5".

http://www.fordifiedracing.com

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Bob Meyer
www.BIGBLOCKFOX.com
'69 Mach1 390 4-spd, '64 Falcon Futura
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-04-2007, 07:49 PM
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Bob,

I'm puzzled. In one place you say "Bump steer same as stock." Next, you say "the control arms will be angled up a small amount."

If I read this logically, the two statements would seem to be in conflict with each other.

Reason I ask is I do a bit of road racing where, if the car is lowered, a bump steer correcting kit must be installed.

Am I seeing something incorrectly here?

Not being critical, just trying to understand!

Tom
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-04-2007, 09:24 PM Thread Starter
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Who says a bump steer kit MUST be installed on a lowered car? I lowered my Turbo Coupe 2" and it handled better than stock and could walk all over GT Mustangs in the corners. I was assuming that the stock Fox suspension did not have bump steer issues, and I could be wrong about this. I honestly do not know. What I am stating is that IF there is no bump steer issue to begin with, then the angle of the conrol arms should have 0 effect on bump steer. Spacing the K-member down does not effect the factory geometry. And I have had 0 complaints about handeling issues. If a bump steer kit needs to be added to correct a factory issue with bump steer, then so be it.

I do know that there seems to be a mis-conseption that it's important for the tie rods to be parrallel with the ground no matter what the angle of the control arms. It is more important for the tie rods to be parrallel with the contol arms (a place to start when adjusting bump steer).

I would agree that in a road racing application that the control arms should probably be level with the ground when the car is at rest, thus the need for lowering spindles. This is less important on a street or drag car.

Bob Meyer
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-04-2007, 10:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BBBob_M
Hood clearance and engine/tailshaft angle. Big blocks are extreemly tall, and in typical swaps they set in there at an extreem uphill angle.

The location of the rack limits how far you can lower the engine in a Fox chassis. By using the spacers you can lower everything including the engine mounts all at once. And the factory geometry remains unchanged. Bump steer same as stock.

.

your absolutely correct about lowering everything at once using the stock motor mounts ,so my question is how is that gonna affect the rack to oil pan? it won't unless you have a motor plate where the engine stays stationary and your spacers push everything down 1.5 inches away from the motor. the engine mounts are not changing on the k frame therfore the pan to rack distance will always be the same unless you have an engine plate and by moving the whole assembly down 1.5 inches you change alot of things #1 the steering shaft has to be longer maybe it can be knocked out of the firewall a little more from the crash sleeve but if you have an aftermarket sterring column you'll need a new shaft. #2 bump steer will most definately be changed being that the rack is attached in the stock location to the k-frame pushing everything down 1.5 inches from the frame you will need very long spacers to the outer tie rods probably custom made. the standard ones will not be near long enough and also you most likely will run out of adjustment on your coil over struts if you are running them in order to lower the car back down to proper or desired ride height the threads only go down so far on the coilover. i believe i was wrong about the shock travel but #3 it will definately change the whole alignment geometry and the lower arm will be at a drastic angle and who knows if you can get your alignment adjustments out of the caster camber plates because those don't have much as it is without totally cutting the top of the strut tower out and using like the skinny kid upper plates which are totally relocated. by purchasing drop spindles it might put things back into perspective a little with your blocks but some of the issues that i mentioned will still have to be delt with. lastly as long as the trans mount is in the factory position yes by pushing the engine down it will sit at a more level angle.
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-04-2007, 11:09 PM
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[quote="TomW"]Bob,

I'm puzzled. In one place you say "Bump steer same as stock." Next, you say "the control arms will be angled up a small amount."

If I read this logically, the two statements would seem to be in conflict with each other.

Reason I ask is I do a bit of road racing where, if the car is lowered, a bump steer correcting kit must be installed.

Am I seeing something incorrectly here?

Not being critical, just trying to understand!




in this case with his blocks being sandwiched between the k-frame and the front frame rails your actually raising the front of the car by 1.5 inches, however being the rack is in a fixed position and the tierods are only so long it forces the control arms to be at a more drastic upper angle(just like if you lowered the car) and that is where the bump steer comes in. also the ball joints will be at much different angles which throws out the front end alignment drastically and now like i already said you have to lower the car back down with your adjustable coil overs and you will not have enough thread left to achieve the proper ride height without drop spindles to make up for the 1.5 inch blocks, and also the caster camber plates will be another issue to get the right geometry since the struts will also be at more of an angle.
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-04-2007, 11:11 PM
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I have spacers, it is well worth it! Motor sets level, you can get to your trans bolts,motor sets more in line with fans for better cooling, headers clear cross member for exhaust. You have to modify your steering shaft alittle.
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-04-2007, 11:34 PM Thread Starter
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Look guys... This is a for sale section... Not a "lets all shoot down a product that we don't understand" forum. :roll:

They do work. The positives by far outweigh the negatives.

20 kits sold and counting, and not one complaint or return for a refund. Several of my customers frequent this forum and some members even built their own spacers. Most don't use or need ANY type of bump steer kit. I installed the second prototype kit myself, and tested the handeling of the car myself. We didn't even have to change the toe-in setting. Like I stated earlier... It's no different than lowering a stock Fox car 1.5". ill effects to geometry are slim at most.

Either buy them or don't. If you can't figure out how they work, well OK.

I only listed them here because they were previousely only offered in steel and wanted to announce an upgraded product.

Thanks for the positive words Chuck.
.

Bob Meyer
www.BIGBLOCKFOX.com
'69 Mach1 390 4-spd, '64 Falcon Futura
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-05-2007, 10:17 AM
 
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I have spacers that I built myself and do not have any of the problems SSO2028 talked about. I have a stock k member and also run coil overs on my stock struts.
You can go this route or you can buy an aftermarket k member with a dropped rack and lower it that way. These kits do work.
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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-05-2007, 01:24 PM
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[quote="BBBob_M"]Look guys... This is a for sale section... Not a "lets all shoot down a product that we don't understand" forum. :roll:

They do work. The positives by far outweigh the negatives.

20 kits sold and counting, and not one complaint or return for a refund. Several of my customers frequent this forum and some members even built their own spacers. Most don't use or need ANY type of bump steer kit. I installed the second prototype kit myself, and tested the handeling of the car myself. We didn't even have to change the toe-in setting. Like I stated earlier... It's no different than lowering a stock Fox car 1.5". ill effects to geometry are slim at most.

Either buy them or don't. If you can't figure out how they work, well OK.


not trying to shoot down your product at all it may give some people what their looking for, but as far as my statement it is absolutely 100% accurate on everything i mentioned. i know because i built k- frames a arms and moved stuff around and used to be an alignment specialist so i completely understand. your blocks may actually come in handy for certain applications, however they are definately not just put in place and go deal. anybody on here that states that they are is full of it. was just curious as to what you benefited from by installing these thats all, and i hate when people that sell stuff just say it bolts right on without doing anything because that is just total bs when i made parts everything i sold was in black and white with no strings and i feel other products should be as equally good.
and just because your saying you didn't need any bump steer kit or run into any alignment issues just because you have it on your test car, doesn't mean it is set up correctly either. ford engineers built the fox body to certain dimensions for specific reasons not just because thats where things just happend to fall into place, it also wasn't designed to harness a big block either so with that being said some adjustments must be made but also require some fabrication thats all i'm saying good luck with your product.
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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-22-2015, 10:28 AM
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spacers

I would like to purchase some spacers bob

93 coupe [email protected]
429,c6,3.08
3485-LBS

472 W/ SCJ HEADS ON MY WAY TO LOW TENS IN A STREET CAR
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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-22-2015, 09:40 PM
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Wow, this thread is 8 years old.

Jess

'90 mustang 545, Weiand tunnel ram, Predator carbs, c-4 with brake, 4800 stall UCC, 9" 4.10 gears, 390/45r 15 drag radials, ladder bars.
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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-23-2015, 08:14 PM
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I have a set that I made out of solid aluminum that I would sell. Mine are 1 1/8. I had them on then had to take them back off it dropped the headers to low for me. I'm running d&d 2 1/8 and they was almost on the ground with the spacers.

55 ford pu 472 ported doves, lunati solid cam, c6 3000 stall 3.89 gear.
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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-27-2019, 12:33 PM
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I see that this post is quite old. Hoping the poster or a member can hook me up with these or similar spacers.

I would like to purchase a set of these spacers. Would you happen to have them in 2"? I have a BBF trying to fit it under a 86 SVO hood (tiny scoop in the center).

1990 Mustang w/ SVO 460 & C6
1971 Ford LTD w/ Original 429 Thunder Jet & C6

Last edited by 90SVOStang; 07-28-2019 at 11:28 AM.
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