Originally Posted by tubais
so i'm sure this question will annoy someone but i gotta ask. what would the rpm range be on these rods in a warmed over street application? and do they need any other machining besides balancing in order to use them.
These are brand spanking new rods, the latest revision, new rod bolts etc. They are as new and as updated as the OEM rods get. The cost of reconditioning older rods with new bolts and machining will far exceed the price asked for these new ones, and the reconditioned rods will still be a used set of rods. So, not only are these a better value price-wise than reconditioned rods, but the are more likley to hold up in a warmed over street engine than the used rods because these have not yet been stressed in an engine. Also, you will know their entire history.
They will need no more machining than any other typical new part, meaning it depends on what you are building but more than likely can be used as-is for their intended application.
In regards to rpm, the general consensus as of late seems to be that reconditioned
OEM passenger car rods can support perhaps 550-600 hp, but rpm comes into play here and most people don't think it's a good idea to take them past 6000 rpm. But these rods are brand new and have more material around the big end and pin end than the earlier rods. The beam section is the same.
What's funny is that before there were aftermarket steel rod options for the 460, we only had the stock rods and back in those days many people regularly ran the TRW L2443 dome tops and spun the engine to 7K. Also, Jon Kaase currently has a 521 with these very rods in it (bushed to 0.990" pin) and that engine has supported over 700hp with them. My jet boat ran older passenger car rods with TRW L2443's at 5000 rpm sustained for years and years, no trouble. All that being said, I am not
suggesting that you use these anecdotes for establishing oem pass car rod capabilities, but the points are noteworthy nonetheless.
If the used/reconditioned OEM rods still hold up as noted above (550hp/6000 rpm, generally), then what we are offering--a brand new set of rods, and an updated version of them
--ought to hold up at least as well, if not better, than an old set of reconditioned CJ rods. As stated in the original post, if I had to build an engine for a competition that required an OEM stock Ford rod, this is the rod I would use. They are the strongest of the OEM 460 rods.
p.s.: I can post pics of the differences between these rods and all the earlier OEM rods if anyone wants. Much more material in these rods.