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post #31 of 72 (permalink) Old 03-26-2017, 10:10 PM Thread Starter
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I haven't updated my build in a while. I haven't done a lot with it except drive it. However, I have made some upgrades. About two years ago I did install electric power steering. The car was originally a 289 car with PS. I had to remove the PS in 1990 when I put in a 460 with the tubular automotive headers and Gen I motor mounts. With still having a 16:1 PS gearbox but no assist it was getting to be a pain to park. I didn't know if the Borgenson gearbox would clear everything. My dad added that to his 66 and really liked it. Not know if it would work but still wanting PS I decided to go with EPAS. I had the 67 "Spear-O-Matic" long shaft gearbox so I had to cut down the shaft. I used a 68 column (that I had planned to install because it was collapsible). I used it mostly because the turn signal switch wiring ran inside the column on the 67 but external on the 68. I did have to modify the collar end of the column to re-use my 67 steering wheel and TS switch. I like that from under the hood you can't see any pump or hoses. It kept an already crowded engine compartment from having more stuff. It also is quiet and adjustable. The factory units are speed sensitive but I use a dial to adjust more assist for parking and less for driving. It has really made the car more fun to drive.
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post #32 of 72 (permalink) Old 03-26-2017, 10:17 PM Thread Starter
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Another upgrade I did in the last couple years was to re calibrate both my tach and speedometer. The tach was a 67 Cougar 6K tach I added many years ago. It was not accurate and the factory wiring ran the hot lead thru the tach to the coil so if the tach failed the car wouldn't run. So I had Gary the Tachman re do it to an 8K three wire tach. He also did the white face in a better quality finish than my white face decals I installed back in the day. While I was at it I also had the speedometer upgraded from a 120 to a 140. So it now has a a 140 mph and 8K combo like the original Shelby Mustangs (although mine are white face). I also replaced my stock 67 steering wheel with a Scott Drake Shelby style.
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post #33 of 72 (permalink) Old 03-26-2017, 10:26 PM Thread Starter
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More recently I replaced the D0VE-C iron heads with Edelbrock Performer RPM heads. I chose them mostly because the FPA headers and Performer intake I already had would work with them and I could knock 60 lbs off the nose. That and an Edelbrock aluminum water pump and mini starter should shave a total of around 70 lbs give or take off the front end.
My iron heads were in need of new valve seals at the very least. And the springs were getting pretty weak. The valves were starting to float at 5,500 rpm. I had never added hardened seats so I just decided to splurge on the heads. Maybe overkill for my mild engine but I am happy with them.
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post #34 of 72 (permalink) Old 03-26-2017, 10:47 PM Thread Starter
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for a car that gets driven pretty regularly I also have had to do some body repairs. The first damage occurred actually at the drag strip. I was parked in the grass and when leaving I felt the right front tire drop into a rut. The lower nose caught the ground and did some damage. Since the car needed some bodywork now I decided to do a few things. I had a repop chrome rear bumper so when they repaint the front I wanted to paint the rear bumper. I had a local shop strip the chrome. My son welded the rear bumper brackets inside and filled the bolt holes. Then when they painted the other parts they also painted the bumper.
A few years ago I also noticed a small bubble on the rear quarter. I wanted it fixed before it got worse. The quarters were repop as well that I put on in 1990. I was worried they were rusting but it turns out the body shop who painted the car 10 years ago put a skim coat of filler on the car. The bubble was actually a spot where the filler was still soft. The new shop dug it all out and repainted the quarter. No rust! While they were painting I had them fix the cowl where I had caught the car on fire! I had a small leak in the cowl underneath. I had pulled the heater box and welded a patch. Somehow I caught some caulk or undercoating or something inside the cowl on fire. It bubbled the paint.
So it's had a few repairs. It wears it's road rash like a badge of honor. It's no show car but still looks pretty good for a driver.
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post #35 of 72 (permalink) Old 03-28-2017, 08:40 AM
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WOW!! That is a long time bump. I'm not sure I ever saw this thread. Nice car! And I love the white faced gauges with the 8000 RPM tach. That was a nice touch.

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post #36 of 72 (permalink) Old 03-29-2017, 08:33 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrScharfenberger View Post
WOW!! That is a long time bump. I'm not sure I ever saw this thread. Nice car! And I love the white faced gauges with the 8000 RPM tach. That was a nice touch.
thanks!
I haven't thought about updating this old thread on regular basis. Maybe I will do better from now on.

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post #37 of 72 (permalink) Old 06-12-2017, 01:11 PM
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Garage
I once had a 460 67 coupe with cast heads back in the 90's. I also ran the Tubular Auto Headers and Crites mounts. I was able to bolt a FLEX fan on the front of the water pump (used a T-Bird short water pump) and it worked pretty good with a stock BB radiator shroud. At 8:1 compression and 389 gears, the car was good for 13 second 1/4 mile time slips at about 103 mph. Drove that thing everywhere

You really put a lot into that car - wish I still had mine - looking good
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post #38 of 72 (permalink) Old 06-13-2017, 10:16 AM
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Those C8SE short water pumps are getting harder to find and expensive to buy
nowadays thanks to the Boss 429 restorers.

With a little set of drag radials you could be well into the 12's I would think.

Car looks great.
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post #39 of 72 (permalink) Old 06-13-2017, 11:52 PM
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I STILL GOT....

Quote:
Originally Posted by RmK57 View Post
Those C8SE short water pumps are getting harder to find and expensive to buy
nowadays thanks to the Boss 429 restorers.

With a little set of drag radials you could be well into the 12's I would think.

Car looks great.
....that water pump
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Best ET-10.36, 128 mph.

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post #40 of 72 (permalink) Old 06-14-2017, 10:23 PM Thread Starter
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when I get home form the Hot Rod Power Tour this weekend i will begin to pull the engine and trans. I have 2nd gen Crites motor mounts that are supposed to lower the engine and set it back some. I will have to see where that leaves the fan.
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post #41 of 72 (permalink) Old 09-20-2017, 12:24 AM Thread Starter
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well i have a habit of long periods of time updating this thread!
so last update was the Eddy heads. I had some issues with rocker arms. I went with the Comp Cams Magnum roller tips. They failed. On another thread I shared that and discussed the speculation on why.
Anyway, my next upgrade was to change the C6 out for a TKO 600. So I decided to pull the engine and trans because the swap also includes changing the Crite first gen motor mounts to the second gen. Also it's tight in there and I needed to add the slave cylinder for the clutch. It's a lot easier with the engine out. So I also decided to take the engine apart. It's been in the car about 18 years. It's got a lot of hard miles on it. Some of the rocker arm debris went thru the motor and I found some scoring on the crank. Nothing too bad but I decided to put a stroker crank in it.
Block is at the machine shop. It was line honed and now waiting on the pistons for the boring and final hone. It was a standard bore so I'm just going .030" over. With a 4.150" Scat crank it should be around 502 cubes. I went with -28 cc dish on the pistons so with the 75cc heads, I should be around 10 to 1 CR.
Anyway, I got the brake pedal modified for three pedals and the slave cylinder and clutch pedal installed. When I get the block back I will mock up the trans before putting the engine together.
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post #42 of 72 (permalink) Old 09-20-2017, 12:29 AM Thread Starter
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slave cylinder mounted...
and a few pics of the brake pedal modification.
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post #43 of 72 (permalink) Old 09-21-2017, 01:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TARA-fied View Post
well i have a habit of long periods of time updating this thread!
so last update was the Eddy heads. I had some issues with rocker arms. I went with the Comp Cams Magnum roller tips. They failed. On another thread I shared that and discussed the speculation on why.
Anyway, my next upgrade was to change the C6 out for a TKO 600. So I decided to pull the engine and trans because the swap also includes changing the Crite first gen motor mounts to the second gen. Also it's tight in there and I needed to add the slave cylinder for the clutch. It's a lot easier with the engine out. So I also decided to take the engine apart. It's been in the car about 18 years. It's got a lot of hard miles on it. Some of the rocker arm debris went thru the motor and I found some scoring on the crank. Nothing too bad but I decided to put a stroker crank in it.
Block is at the machine shop. It was line honed and now waiting on the pistons for the boring and final hone. It was a standard bore so I'm just going .030" over. With a 4.150" Scat crank it should be around 502 cubes. I went with -28 cc dish on the pistons so with the 75cc heads, I should be around 10 to 1 CR.
Anyway, I got the brake pedal modified for three pedals and the slave cylinder and clutch pedal installed. When I get the block back I will mock up the trans before putting the engine together.
Why not go with a longer stroke crank?

I think a 4.5 inch crank (with an .08 inch overore) is plug n play

The block doesn't need any clearancing until you get to like 580 cubic inches or something like that.

No replacement for displacement!

Best ET-10.36, 128 mph.

Race it. Break it. Fix it. Repeat!

Last edited by bajarick; 09-21-2017 at 01:18 PM.
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post #44 of 72 (permalink) Old 09-21-2017, 08:28 PM Thread Starter
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Why not go with a longer stroke crank?

I think a 4.5 inch crank (with an .08 inch overore) is plug n play

The block doesn't need any clearancing until you get to like 580 cubic inches or something like that.

No replacement for displacement!
A couple reasons, first, my 429 is an internally balanced engine. I'm on a budget and Scat only makes the 9000 series cast crank internally balanced in a 4.150" stroke. They make forged cranks bigger that are internally balanced but are about a $1,000 more. I could get an externally balanced cast crank with a bigger stroke but would potentially cost a bunch more to get it balanced. So the 4.150" is the most cost effective option. My machine shop will balance the rotating assembly including flywheel and harmonic balancer for about $200 plus materials. Shouldn't need much if any heavy metal with the 4.150".
Second, the car is a driver not a race car so I don't "need" 580 cubes. While bigger might be better and I would love it, the drive train will be doing good to hold up to the 502! I still have a 28 spline 9" rear axle and leaf springs. It's not going to hook. If I make it hook I am going to break the rear end. I drive this thing year round and anywhere and everywhere so I need street tires (not soft compound either) and I want it to be reliable. I only chose the stroker crank since the original crank needs to be ground and I thought of simply going with a 460 crank but for about the same cost of a 460 crank I could get a stroker. So 502 is bigger than 466!
Third, I have the Eddelbrock Performer heads, Performer 460 intake, FPA shorty headers and I am re-using my cam which isn't that big. The top end might limit the potential of a bigger engine.
It should be a handful to drive but fun. I figure one HP per cube should be pretty easy to achieve so it should have around 500hp and gobs of torque. I think it will be enough

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post #45 of 72 (permalink) Old 09-21-2017, 08:32 PM Thread Starter
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my crank, rods and pistons came in today, now to deliver them to the machine shop!
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