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post #16 of 60 (permalink) Old 12-08-2017, 11:23 AM Thread Starter
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I hadn't planned on buying this, but sometimes you have to jump on deals. I got a spam email from PerformanceParts that listed an Autometer 233902 monster tach with recall for $85 and knew they screwed up. Checked the website and sure enough it wasn't listed at that price. Hated to hold them to it, but building a car at Xmas time means you need to save money wherever you can. Glad they honored it.
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post #17 of 60 (permalink) Old 12-12-2017, 11:31 AM Thread Starter
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I'll be starting the drivetrain mockup, so I'm also thinking about placement for other components. The brakes I inherited are Metric calipers up front, 10x2 drum rear and a power tandem cylinder under floor. I don't necessarily have an issue with the rear drums in this light of a car, but those are easily upgraded if need be. What I'm wondering is how much will a booster limit the cam selection and power. If I'm going to ditch the PB for manual brakes now is the time.
So question is..... how much horsepower can I build from my combination and still have enough vacuum for the booster?
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post #18 of 60 (permalink) Old 12-12-2017, 11:46 PM Thread Starter
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Mounts came and bolted them up to see where we go from here. The red sections are where the frame rail is with the top of the rail being level with the pan rail. Planning on pulling the body this weekend and starting block/trans position. Might break out the sawzall and cut out the firewall while I'm at it.
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post #19 of 60 (permalink) Old 12-14-2017, 12:08 PM Thread Starter
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Spent the evening cleaning up the trans in preparation for mocking up the drivetrain this weekend. This version C6 is 27-1/2" from bellhousing to tailshaft housing and is 6" shorter than a standard C6. This will help out quite a bit on engine placement (a little lower on the frame rails) and drive angle.
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post #20 of 60 (permalink) Old 12-22-2017, 12:07 AM Thread Starter
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Haven't pulled the body yet but am putting some pieces together. Cut off the old motor brackets and vega bracket so the rails are ready for the new setup. Also figuring out where the roll cage will go as well as harnesses and mounts.
Got a deal on a pair of seats since I will need them when I pull the body and weld in new reinforcements on the frame. Getting a better idea where the steering shaft will run so ordered the steering wheel quick disconnect since seating will be "cozy".
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post #21 of 60 (permalink) Old 12-23-2017, 04:30 PM
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I'm really digging this build.
So, with roll bars, I assume that you are going to do some racing. Cool. Will you be seeking a specific NHRA rating?
Looks like there's a built-in chop to the top. How much lower is that top?
Wil this be a fender less high boy?
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post #22 of 60 (permalink) Old 12-23-2017, 07:08 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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I'm really digging this build.
So, with roll bars, I assume that you are going to do some racing. Cool. Will you be seeking a specific NHRA rating?
Looks like there's a built-in chop to the top. How much lower is that top?
Wil this be a fender less high boy?
After pouring over the NHRA rulebook, it's unlikely this will fit in a class. Too light and engine's too big so it'll have street duty and brackets. Went to American Rebel wheels to get a couple wheels for mock up. 15x12 Sprints with 30/14.5-15 M&H cheaters on the rear and 15x4.5" Starburst on the front. Still on the fence on polished or as-cast finish.
Going to have to figure out if I can run power brakes or have to switch over to manual pretty quick.
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post #23 of 60 (permalink) Old 01-04-2018, 10:59 AM Thread Starter
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Question for you guys about oil pans. The Sanderson's tuck in pretty tight, so while I'd like to run a rear sump pan, I'm concerned the collectors would be too close to the sump. Is there a decent front sump pan for racing or is the header clearance even an issue? Can't run a rear sump "T" style and don't want it too low either (ground clearance). Front sump I can run a "T" pan (if I start building around it now).
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post #24 of 60 (permalink) Old 01-06-2018, 01:29 PM Thread Starter
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Found a converter here locally that's NIB at 1/2 the price of new and a good starting point. TCI 441001 that says it's an "additional 1,000 rpm of stall" over stock. I'm figuring around 2,800 stall with this combo will be fun. We'll see when it's all assembled and start testing but considering I don't have ANY converter now it's worth throwing a couple hundred at it.
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post #25 of 60 (permalink) Old 01-30-2018, 09:26 AM Thread Starter
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I won't be getting around to the BBF portion for a couple weeks but there's more to do before that.
Grabbed some tube and the bender and started on the brake lines. I have to pull the body, re-set the firewall, mock up the eng/trans and THEN I can place the master/booster assy.

Since this will be "street legal" it needs turn signals and a hi beam indicator. These LED's were too bright to mount on the dash face, so mounted them facing down from the ledge over the gauges.
No real estate for a shift light with a chopped windshield (and I hate the look of normal shift lights) so went a little stealthier.
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post #26 of 60 (permalink) Old 01-30-2018, 09:44 AM
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That's a clean installation with the brake lines.....but, what I like to do is mount the lines so that the feed line for both front and back enter in the center of the car and have equal length lines out to the wheels. That allows the fluid to reach the wheels at the same time in a panic stop situation and not have the car dart to one side or the other as the fluid reaches the wheels at the same time......especially in as light of a car as yours.....just sayin'.
Rob

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post #27 of 60 (permalink) Old 01-30-2018, 11:22 AM Thread Starter
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That's a clean installation with the brake lines.....but, what I like to do is mount the lines so that the feed line for both front and back enter in the center of the car and have equal length lines out to the wheels. That allows the fluid to reach the wheels at the same time in a panic stop situation and not have the car dart to one side or the other as the fluid reaches the wheels at the same time......especially in as light of a car as yours.....just sayin'.
Rob
That really doesn't happen to any great extent with hydraulics as the pressure differential is due to the loss in the run. The caliper at the end of the circuit has to see pressure before pressure can build at the nearest. Pneumatics is another story though......
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post #28 of 60 (permalink) Old 01-31-2018, 07:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slowride View Post
I'll be starting the drivetrain mockup, so I'm also thinking about placement for other components. The brakes I inherited are Metric calipers up front, 10x2 drum rear and a power tandem cylinder under floor. I don't necessarily have an issue with the rear drums in this light of a car, but those are easily upgraded if need be. What I'm wondering is how much will a booster limit the cam selection and power. If I'm going to ditch the PB for manual brakes now is the time.
So question is..... how much horsepower can I build from my combination and still have enough vacuum for the booster?
You might look into a hydro boost with an electric pump. It would take some tricky fab work in your case but I have the setup on a Fox Mustang. Couldn't be happier! As big of cam as you want. The hb is out of a 2001 Mustang and the pump is Toyota MR2.
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post #29 of 60 (permalink) Old 01-31-2018, 09:15 AM Thread Starter
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You might look into a hydro boost with an electric pump. It would take some tricky fab work in your case but I have the setup on a Fox Mustang. Couldn't be happier! As big of cam as you want. The hb is out of a 2001 Mustang and the pump is Toyota MR2.
Thanks for the tip. I'm going kind of conservative on this one since it'll be under floor and power. Electric vacuum pump and 7" booster (plus it's new and free).
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post #30 of 60 (permalink) Old 01-31-2018, 10:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thermod View Post
You might look into a hydro boost with an electric pump. It would take some tricky fab work in your case but I have the setup on a Fox Mustang. Couldn't be happier! As big of cam as you want. The hb is out of a 2001 Mustang and the pump is Toyota MR2.

Actually a hydro boost master cylinder would take up less room under the floor than a vacuum booster......just more hydraulic lines and a power steering pump.
Rob

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