Let's build a 3 window Deuce - Page 3 - 460 Ford Forum
Car Buildup Forum A place to detail your car build and chronicle your progress as you put together your BBF powered vehicle.

User Tag List

 7Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
post #31 of 60 (permalink) Old 01-31-2018, 11:23 AM Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 221
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 39 Post(s)
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by White Lightning View Post
Actually a hydro boost master cylinder would take up less room under the floor than a vacuum booster......just more hydraulic lines and a power steering pump.
Rob
Understood. Room isn't that big of an issue though.
slowride is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #32 of 60 (permalink) Old 01-31-2018, 11:43 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Sioux City,Ia
Posts: 476
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 100 Post(s)
 
Free is always good! In case you didn't know and the vacuum pump happens to be of the SSBC variety...they are super noisy IMO. I have one in another car with a lumpy noisy BBF and you can hear the pump over all the other noise including the very noisy fuel pump. Anyway,I thought I'd throw it out there for ya.
thermod is offline  
post #33 of 60 (permalink) Old 01-31-2018, 12:46 PM Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 221
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 39 Post(s)
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by thermod View Post
Free is always good! In case you didn't know and the vacuum pump happens to be of the SSBC variety...they are super noisy IMO. I have one in another car with a lumpy noisy BBF and you can hear the pump over all the other noise including the very noisy fuel pump. Anyway,I thought I'd throw it out there for ya.
I've heard about the noise and am hoping a good vacuum reservoir minimizes run time.
slowride is offline  
 
post #34 of 60 (permalink) Old 01-31-2018, 11:16 PM Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 221
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 39 Post(s)
 
Body's going to have to come off real soon to cut the firewall and tunnel, so I'm trying to buy what I need to get the next steps done. This time it's a trans shield since I'll have to trim the floor and build the tunnel around it. I was thinking about a blanket, but since this'll be on the street I figured a TCI aluminum shield will keep the trans cooler than a blanket.
slowride is offline  
post #35 of 60 (permalink) Old 05-02-2018, 09:30 AM Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 221
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 39 Post(s)
 
Body's off and fabbed the mounting brackets. Sits right where I want with 3* down and a nice driveshaft angle. I'm confident this arrangement will hold up to whatever I put to it, so I'll tack the brackets on the frame tonight and do the finish welding when the eng/trans come out again.
Time to get out the sawzall and cut out the firewall. I'm itching just thinking about it.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg mnt4.jpg (78.7 KB, 30 views)
slowride is offline  
post #36 of 60 (permalink) Old 05-02-2018, 11:04 AM
Member
 
flowney's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Middle Georgia (USA)
Posts: 116
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18 Post(s)
 
Itching to Cut Fiberglass

Yes, the though of cutting into fiberglass makes me itch too.
flowney is offline  
post #37 of 60 (permalink) Old 05-08-2018, 09:27 AM Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 221
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 39 Post(s)
 
Firewall's in the way, so out comes the sawzall.....
Attached Images
File Type: jpg sb5.jpg (43.5 KB, 30 views)
File Type: jpg sb1.jpg (46.5 KB, 29 views)
File Type: jpg sb3.jpg (48.5 KB, 30 views)
slowride is offline  
post #38 of 60 (permalink) Old 06-06-2018, 09:33 AM Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 221
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 39 Post(s)
 
A quick update. Cut out the firewall, moved it back 4-1/2", glassed the feet in and started fitting the steering column.
Real estate inside a '32 is scarce, so some compromises must be made. The steering column is slightly angled to center the wheel at the seat (about 2" offset at the firewall), but clear the back of the driver's cyl head and still leave room for the brake pedal. The steering shaft linkage is going to be really kind of cool, but I have a few steps before we get to that point.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg c1.jpg (65.0 KB, 30 views)
File Type: jpg c2.jpg (58.5 KB, 35 views)
slowride is offline  
post #39 of 60 (permalink) Old 06-07-2018, 10:54 PM Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 221
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 39 Post(s)
 
Eventually on this build I'll get around to 385 stuff, but for now I have to get the steering column AROUND the engine. Came up with this jackshaft arrangement to get past the motor mount and keep decent angles on the steering u-joints.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg column6.jpg (61.9 KB, 45 views)

Last edited by slowride; 06-07-2018 at 10:56 PM.
slowride is offline  
post #40 of 60 (permalink) Old 01-24-2019, 11:40 AM Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 221
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 39 Post(s)
 
Quick update on this. A lot has been going on build-wise, but not to the engine yet. Starting with a bare fiberglass body is a WHOLE lot harder than steel. I have been working on designing and fabbing window tracks, p/window reg and motor mounts and latches (yes, going to be "street legal"). Why? because I made door hinge assemblies that will hang off the roll cage rather than the body wood (too heavy). Why am I screwing with the roll cage? 'Cuz the cage mounting locations have to be determined before I pull the body to redo the frame reinforcement. Finishing up adding rear disc to the 9" and setting up the 3.89's as well.
Been rethinking my intake and carburetion choices as well, but will wait until I get the frame under control before asking for recommendations.
slowride is offline  
post #41 of 60 (permalink) Old 01-24-2019, 09:27 PM Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 221
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 39 Post(s)
 
Outa room but making it work somehow. Looking for a temp home for the '31 so I can kick it into overdrive, but enclosed storage in SoCal is big money.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg garage.jpg (65.4 KB, 16 views)

Last edited by slowride; 01-24-2019 at 09:37 PM.
slowride is offline  
post #42 of 60 (permalink) Old 01-25-2019, 08:56 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Sioux City,Ia
Posts: 476
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 100 Post(s)
 
Hey,in case you don't already know,West System epoxy resin is awesome stuff for fabricating fiberglass. Works great for adding metal parts or just forming new parts. Super strong! 105 resin,205 fast activator,206 slow.I use slow but it takes 24 hrs to cure. The 406 additive...you mix it with the stirred resin to get the mixture as thick as you want,wont run off or sag when it's the right consistency.
thermod is offline  
post #43 of 60 (permalink) Old 01-25-2019, 09:29 AM Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 221
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 39 Post(s)
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by thermod View Post
Hey,in case you don't already know,West System epoxy resin is awesome stuff for fabricating fiberglass. Works great for adding metal parts or just forming new parts. Super strong! 105 resin,205 fast activator,206 slow.I use slow but it takes 24 hrs to cure. The 406 additive...you mix it with the stirred resin to get the mixture as thick as you want,wont run off or sag when it's the right consistency.
Once the body comes off for frame mods, there's quite a bit of 'glass work to do. Good to know since the firewall is a big project and the trunk corners are being changed as well.
slowride is offline  
post #44 of 60 (permalink) Old 01-29-2019, 05:11 PM Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 221
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 39 Post(s)
 
One more thing down. The rear drums were used and junk, so after researching what I'd need and sourcing them, got all new parts for an Explorer disc conversion for under $300 total. Had to swap sides on the caliper brackets so the parking brake exited on the bottom and not the top, but shouldn't present a problem bleeding the brakes. Now I'll be able to stop it.... just need to get around to the engine so I can make it go!
Attached Images
File Type: jpg brk1.jpg (75.9 KB, 23 views)
slowride is offline  
post #45 of 60 (permalink) Old 01-31-2019, 04:18 PM Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 221
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 39 Post(s)
 
You have to take the good with the bad. In looking it over closer, the previous owner didn't own a tape measure, so the shock mount/link brackets he tacked on the housing aren't the same distance from the ends, but more than that, the top shock mounts aren't spaced properly either. The good news? In re-doing all this I can set the pinion angle properly.......
slowride is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the 460 Ford Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools Search this Thread
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome