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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-10-2018, 09:01 AM Thread Starter
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69 Lincoln MarkIII questions

Hello everyone,
made an introduction in the engine tech forum and have some questions for this section, in particular tires and wheels, the stock 225 x 15's just won't work for what I'm looking to do to the car and engine. I would like to know what size wheels and tires I can get on it in particular the rear, not looking to go to super big wheels like 21's but 16-17" with wider tires, staggered most likely, any ideas as to what will fit? I think solid aluminum wheels might look good, and, open to other posibilities. Thank you in advance for your help.

Dan

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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-10-2018, 07:06 PM
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hey dude, you probably won't get much on this site for lincoln mark iii specific stuff. im running 22x9.5 wheels with 265/35r22 tires. they fit real good even on air ride i don't have clearance problems.

to get more responses check out the Lincoln Mark iii page on facebook. there are a few idiots on the page but mostly decent people looking to help
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-11-2018, 07:31 AM Thread Starter
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I'll check it out thanks

Dan

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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-13-2018, 06:55 AM Thread Starter
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Picture

Humble beginnings, haven't gotten it into my shop yet. Spoke with Scott (mad porter) going to start with the mechanicles, drivetrain, and suspension. No plans to lower the car just level it, the front is higher than the rear not a fan of that look. The plan for the engine is 521 stroker with AFR heads and whatever Scott recommends for the internals, going to take a year or two to get it where I want it. The final vision is black, no vinyl top, detroit steel wheels in black with shannon cones and keep the red interior.
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71 Lincoln MKIII Sincity
A thing of beauty, a work in progress

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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-16-2018, 11:35 AM Thread Starter
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Pretty sure I figured out my wheel situation, 17 x 8 U.S. wheel #68 rat rod wheels and 255/60-17 tires. Due to hub center differences will have to use hub centric rings, not the first time I've used them. I had a 1985 BMW M635 Euro that I put some style 5 staggered set of wheels on that needed em. Hoping no rubbing issues, time will tell.

On a side note, in some of the reading I've done the windshield wipers are hydraulically powered by the crank driven power steering pump which produces something in the neighborhood 1200 lbs per sqare inch....nice to know I can scrape a deer off the windshield if the need arises....


Dan
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71 Lincoln MKIII Sincity
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-17-2018, 09:05 AM
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About the crank driven PS pump....I really liked the idea. The motor was a nice 68 Mark,some mods,little cam,C8 heads ported,valves back cut per Scotty's site,Torker 2,800 DP,shorty headers. With the short water pump,would fit nicely in a Fox body. Anyway,got the motor broke in,went for a spirited drive and BAM!! Front seal in the pump blew out and oiled down the whole car. Pump had been rebuilt with new seals and was tested good.Fixed it and hoping for the best,tried it again. Worked fine at 5 k rpm or below,blew out again at 5200. I ended up with a standard timing cover and a spacer made where the pump used to be,got an electric PS pump. Your results may differ.

On the short water pump,rebuilds are impossible to find,new on Ebay for $300,Cardone rebuild and return program for $150 or...
check out the Dead Nuts On site. They have the rebuild kits for the short pump for cheap but it does take some doing. Don't accidently trade the core in for the wrong pump

Pretty sure those wheels are lug centric as is the car. Shouldn't need any rings. Beemer = hub centric I might be wrong

Last edited by thermod; 12-17-2018 at 09:21 AM.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-18-2018, 06:15 PM Thread Starter
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Yea the pump is interesting, I've read of some guys converting it like you did to the newer one. I'm not sure what I'll do with it yet, I like that their is one less belt/pully driven gadget. As for the car the more closely I look at it I may not keep it, I'm seeing some things that tell me it may not be worth restoring....I picked it up pretty cheap and could sell it for what I paid for it....

I'm looking at a really nice Mark III tomorrow, if I've learned anything over the years it is to buy the best I can afford to avoid some of the pitfalls of "A really cheap (fill in the blank) car to fix up" We'll see what comes of it....

Dan

71 Lincoln MKIII Sincity
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-18-2018, 07:08 PM
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Always start with the cleanest, complete, rust free car available. It will cost you more upfront but you'll be money ahead in the long run. Rust repair is dirty, intrusive and very expensive, missing trim is expensive, hard to find or unobtainable, interiors can make body/paint work seem cheap. I can't tell you the number of project cars I've worked on that have been abandoned after spending thousands and aren't as nice as a better candidate that
could have been bought for a couple thousand more upfront.

80 Fairmont wagon, 528, Blue Thunder heads on E-85. Just a brutal street car
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-19-2018, 09:45 PM Thread Starter
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Amen to that, learned that lesson one to many times....

Dan

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